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USMCord1 Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:21 pm

Here is the project of Widening beam with adjusters. Make sure when you do this that you double check everything, remember measure twice and cut once.

The first is cutting the beam I cut one inch on each side of the middle stock torrsion bolt. Before doing this I had measured with arms on at every concivable location, with and without arms

Then I took a 8 inch section of tube from Donor beam but any tube of same diameter and thickness would work. I welded two adjusters to the section of tube and tacked the other two adjusters to the beam. The reason I did this so I would have the width I needed and the ability to get both top and bottom same angle. This was my first time doing this so I went slow and now I know I did steps I could of by passed.

I clamped a section of angle iron behind the beam section to tie in the two ends and make sure the splice went in straight. I used a framing square clamped to an adjustable angle square to make sure my adjusters where set at the same angle. I cut the Torrsion plates 3 inches longer then I need and trimed that down to 1 1/2 once I got the correct distance. That was done by putting arms in with all the adjustment screws taken out so I could mark the location that the indents would be.

I set the adjusters so with the arms, torrsion springs and wheels on I could see where the adjusters would be in reference to the height of the beam. I could raise and lower the front of the rail till I got the height that I wanted. What I did was see how high the front end would go till the wheels came off the ground (full extension) which was 17 5/8 so I settled on 16 1/2 with adjusters set in the middle so I could raise or lower the beam. I settled on16 inches of ground clearence, figuring it would settle from 16 1/2 inches.

I clamped the beam in the rail so I would have the correct distance from beam to beam once I had ALL lined up and all adjusters lined up, I tacked all 4 adjusters and two sections of tube to the beam.

Once I got it all tacked GOOD I removed it from the Beam housing and welded up all joints and the grease fittings which I plan on moving to the backside of the beam.

I would weld the seams grind down the tops and weld again. Once I got it all welded I put it back on the rail

Checked everything and took it back off. Like I said I spent alot of time looking and measuring and looking. The wife would come back and I would be standing there arms crossed just looking at it.

I cut two sections off the donor beam and welded those between the beams for bracing then I took a 1/8 by 1 inch metal strap welded one end to the underside of the bottom beam over the adjuster seam heated the strap up and contoured it to bend over the back of the top beam for both sides. I want to make sure it stays. I took the adjuster bolts out when I slid in the torrsion bars so I could make sure that the indents where in the correct location then tightened the bolts to keep torrrsions in place, then installed the arms, drums and wheels.

I then put the shocks in the lower shock location compressed it 3 inches and marked the location on the shock tower cut the shock bosses out and lowered the tower, notched the brace and welded the shock boss back in. So that way I have shock travel with some to spair. I will also be adding limit straps.

Once I did that I am getting ready to start fabricating the blazer steering box.

This turned out easier then I thought it would and the next should be a breeze. Hope I have helped somebody see it in the process cause I searched alot of places trying to see one from start to finish. I might of made some mistakes if so let me know so that I may correct them now. Again hope this helps!

Skidmark Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:49 pm

Looks great, man! It looks like you took the time to learn what you were doing and get it done right.

Skidmark Mon Nov 28, 2005 8:05 pm

And in that last picture - it's a cryin' shame to see that beer cup upside down like that... don't let it happen again! 8)

How many men does it take to open a beer?

None - it should be open when she brings it.... :twisted:

RedRail1 Mon Nov 28, 2005 8:07 pm

That looks awsome, Great job on widening the beam. Did you have any problems with worping during the welding process?
The stance of that Rail looks Insane. I bet it's alot of fun. How wide/long is the stance now?

Nicksan Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:05 pm

You &%#@ers are gonna make me tear apart my new front end, cut it up and extend it .......................... :shock:
Dammit, just as Im almost done..................... :lol: :?

I had been considering, if I ever want to go with a wider front end I can always install wider arms and tie rods and that would allow me to install a wider rear end.

el loco kingo Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:27 pm

that looks GREAT man. it looks mean as hell now.

USMCord1 Tue Nov 29, 2005 5:57 am

RedRail1 wrote: That looks awsome, Great job on widening the beam. Did you have any problems with worping during the welding process?
The stance of that Rail looks Insane. I bet it's alot of fun. How wide/long is the stance now?

Thanks, no I went real slow on taking and welding, I would tack one spot move to the other side go back check my weld then do it again. When I took it out to weld it I made sure the angle Iron was clamped on good and weld short areas then move to the next one just like I tacked it. It looks wicked, and should be a blast. The rear is 83 inches and the front is 78 inches wide.

SHMO Tue Nov 29, 2005 1:45 pm


looks really nice. I knew you would be happy going wider. Why don't you push that thing outside and take some good pictures of it from different angles. :wink:


USMCord1 Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:22 pm

Once I get the steering box hooked up I'll push it outside and get some pics. SHMO thanks to you and all the guys who shared their knowledge with me.

USMCord1 Fri Dec 09, 2005 4:20 pm

I took out the floor brace and one other. I plan on adding the floor bracing in but do you think it needs the one on the top? The seat bucket area is moved back 10 inches from where it was at. Take a look at the pic and let me know if you will. Thanks!

aquamanx Fri Dec 09, 2005 7:34 pm

Awesome a right hand drive rail cool. HA
Your beam looks really good, I just did one also but yours looks much better.
What brand is your rail? It looks well build.

bajaherbie Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:38 pm

:shock: look in the background. i think this buggy is made of wood.....

TimberwolfZ28 Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:30 pm

looks great! I remember that chassis from another thread...did anyone ever figure out the manufacturer?

USMCord1 Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:42 pm

TimberwolfZ28 wrote: looks great! I remember that chassis from another thread...did anyone ever figure out the manufacturer?

Still don't know the manufacture, any idea?

Jowlz Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:24 pm

USMCord1 wrote: TimberwolfZ28 wrote: looks great! I remember that chassis from another thread...did anyone ever figure out the manufacturer?

Still don't know the manufacture, any idea?

I was at Fisher Buggy in Tampa, FL about 2 weeks ago. It looks alot like the rail frames they sell.

Hurry up with the pictures of the S-10 rack. My father-in-law is waiting impatiently (keeps asking me if you have any pictures yet), as he is probably going to go that route if it works for you. Rail looks great. Good work.

USMCord1 Sun Dec 11, 2005 7:31 pm

I got the Heims in and the Blazer steering box in, tried to get the steering column roughed in but work ($$) got in the way and can't pass that up. Will have more info on it later. Interested in seeing how much bump steer I have now and how much more I can eliminate.
sorry for the blurry pic.

Yea I like seeing everybody cock there head :P Notice the hi-tech brake line end covers? Have to fab bracing on the back of the box and it should be locked in but won't do that till bump steer is taken care of.

USMCord1 Wed Dec 28, 2005 6:30 pm

Well after taking the Steering box back out, heims and tie rods different length so had to redo. After reloacting several times got bump steer down to a 1/16 of an inch I am happy. Will post pics tomorrow. Alot of welding done.

USMCord1 Thu Dec 29, 2005 5:39 pm

Done with the Front (yeah right) moving on to the floor, steering column,shifter and cutting brakes. The steering with the Blazer steering box is unreal, granted I have not had it on the road but it takes 2 1/2 turns stop to stop and it feels like power steering, no resistance at all, talk about smooth. Still have to move the grease fittings to the back of the beam. Here are some pics in case anybody is interested.

It is welded and braced.
Like I said have bump steer down to a 1/16th from full up to full down I can live with that.

This is a shot from the front I am glad I went with the 10 inch wider front.

Here is a picture after I moved the seats back, before my knee would get caught between the steering wheel and frame, not now!
Another pic little dark but I am starting to like how it is coming together.

So far 10 inches wider and adjusters giving almost 17 inches of clearence , the Steering box is big but it was built to handle off road and I think it will handle the ruts and holes alot better then the Stock VW Steering box. Can't wait till I can put some mil-spec paint on it :P Now on to the next project.

(183)Beast Thu Dec 29, 2005 5:47 pm

What size of tubing is that and what wall thickness? I need to get some shock towers and do that, it would help me alot.

Thanks for the guide.

Skidmark Thu Dec 29, 2005 6:38 pm

Man, seeing pictures in focus all of a sudden like that realy screws with your eyes! I wish you would post a warning before you pull that on us! :lol: :lol: :lol:

It's looking really good, Cordy. That wide front beam has a great stance to it! Let us know how well it drives when you finally get some miles behind you. It should feel like a totally new ride with your seat repositioned and everything.

You know, we expect all the pictures to be focused from here on out since you finally figured out how to do it.... :twisted:

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