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Sun Aug 08, 2010 10:09 am

Well, it sounds to me like its still wired wrong but if it starts and runs OK, then leave it alone.

Like Dale has said before, when working on wiring, your best friend is a test light.

Sun Aug 08, 2010 10:23 am

If you decide you want to get it straight, the way to do it is

First disconnect everything from the switch

Next connect the heavy gauge wire from the stud on the solenoid to the terminal marked battery.

Next use a test light to determine which terminals are hot when the key is in the different positions.

The accessory terminal should be the only one hot (besides the battery terminal which is always hot) when the key is turned left.

None should be hot when the key is turned one position right

Ignition and Accessory should both be hot when the key is in the second postion right.

Start, and Ignition should both be hot in the final position right (with spring return).

After you confirm that the appropriate terminals are hot at each switch position,

Connect the Ign terminal to the positive side of the coil

Connect the Start terminal to the spade connector on the starter solenoid

Connect any other wires to the Accessory terminal

Sun Aug 08, 2010 12:50 pm

bug1957 wrote: i gave you guys some miss information on how i had the wiring hooked up. i had one wire running my coil to the ign side of switch(correct), one wire running my big termial on starter to the battery side of my switch, and one wire running spade connecter on solenoid to the start (center termial) on my switch.

i switched the wires from the start (center termial) on my switch( which should go the big post on my starter) and the wire i had connected to the battery termial on switch to spade termial on solenoid.

I followed your advise and connected my wires as follows.

wire from my start(center post on my switch) to the big post on starter solenoid.

wire on batt termial on switch to the spade termial on starter solenoid.

wire from coil to the ign side on switch.

It starts and runs now without holding key.

Thanks so much for all your help

The two statements that are in red and are just reversed to as how it should be.....

Wired by terminal designations NOT by physical position on switch........

Dale

Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:39 pm

i just did the dimmer relay but I used a 67 turn signal switch. It is not a typical relay but is momentary contact switched. It then stays in that position until a momentary contact makes it move back.

The relays are available used on theSamba and also I think www.CIP1.com carries them new.

It works well.

I wired my buggy based on the 1967 wiring diagram and then modified a few things to use relays.

The 67 is the first year of 12 volt therefore it is quite a simple system. If you use taillights from a bug You can pretty well follow it all and change a few things to your taste.

Clonebug

Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:50 pm

Dale, You have the fuse block unswitched. I run my power to the fuse block from the accessory terminal. That way nobody(kids) can turn on the lights, etc. w/o the key. Its no fun leaving a buggy parked and coming back to a dead battery.

Sun Aug 08, 2010 2:24 pm

Quote: I run my power to the fuse block from the accessory terminal.

If I am not mistaken then you would only have power to the block when the key is in the accessory position. You would have no power when the key was in the "run" position.

Sun Aug 08, 2010 3:28 pm

jspbtown wrote: Quote: I run my power to the fuse block from the accessory terminal.

If I am not mistaken then you would only have power to the block when the key is in the accessory position. You would have no power when the key was in the "run" position.

Accessory position goes hot in ACC and with key in ON position..... When used to power things like radios and items that are to be powered when key is in ACC position only items wired to ACC terminal can be used without putting any power to coil as when it is in ON position...

Dale

Sun Aug 08, 2010 3:31 pm

BL3Manx wrote: Dale, You have the fuse block unswitched. I run my power to the fuse block from the accessory terminal. That way nobody(kids) can turn on the lights, etc. w/o the key. Its no fun leaving a buggy parked and coming back to a dead battery.

Its individual choice, there is no absolute rule saying it has to be either way.....

I personal use a "system disconnect switch" which total disconnects battery from ANY electrical part of system when car is parked....

If switch is put in discrete location it makes it a little harder for jerks to diddle with your electrics....

Dale

Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:19 pm

on the diagram you posted im having trouble with alternator, starter and ignition switch. Do i need a 6v voltage regulator

Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:57 am

spikes85 wrote: on the diagram you posted im having trouble with alternator, starter and ignition switch. Do i need a 6v voltage regulator

Useing a 6V regulator on a 12V system will not work. Do you have a 6V electrical system? Is the battery 6V or 12V? What is the generator, 6V or 12V?

Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:07 am

12v with alternator and ignition switch, having trouble looking at the diagram as far as what wires go to the alternator, starter and ignition switch to the fuses

Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:51 am

Spike, Dales drawing he posted above is a very basic, no frills wiring diagram. In this thread, on pages 1 and 2 Dale addresses the different starter switches and the wiring for them.

You need to determine what kind of switch you have (not brand name, but how many terminals on the back and what they do. A ohm meter can be used to track down which terminals are momentarly switched to go to the starter and which are switched to run power to a coil), then look at this thread to see which wires go where.

For the alternator, you need to determine if it has an internal regulator or needs an external regulator. This can be determined by what terminals are on the outside of the alternator.

DO NOT use a 6V regulator on that alternator.

Where are you located? VW's were every where, around every corner at one time in the past and the people that still have them are plentyful, and like to help others. You may need to find some other VW airheads in your area to help get you started in the direction you need to go. Not wire your project for you, because you will never learn that way, but identify what parts are what and let you know where the wires need to be run.

Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:37 am

joescoolcustoms wrote: You may need to find some other VW airheads in your area to help get you started in the direction you need to go. Not wire your project for you, because you will never learn that way, but identify what parts are what and let you know where the wires need to be run.

Yes..... In my diagrams I tried to be very specific where the wires go by using sketches representing various items that need to be wired.. Most of the sketches are accurate representations to where wires connect .... IF you are having trouble, get some help from someone that is more adept at wiring and can advise you to what steps to take...

Also no 6volt parts on as 12 volt system....

Dale

Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:58 pm

My buggy is going to be 6 volts as I am using a 1956 36HP engine. As I am getting ready to rewire it I noticed the toggle switches I am looking at state "12Volt, 20 Amp". Is there any downside to running these with 6 volts? Also do I need a special fuse block or will a 12 volt aftermarket fuse block be fine? Heres the link to my buggy project http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=555310
And yes I know it's ugly but I have owned it since the late 70's and I am looking foward to having fun with it once again.

Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:07 pm

Almost all 12 volt items like switches and fuses and lamp sockets will be ok.... These are just a way to wire and mount a device, what is critical is voltage device (lamp, relay, radio, coil, starter etc:) is designed to operate at...

Dale

Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:14 pm

i am also using the bug pac diagram but i am confused on what i need for flashers, relays anything else that is need in the system besides the wiring. and fuse box? I will be usung the streering column out of the 1974 donor beetle

Wed Jan 22, 2014 7:26 pm

Switches and fuses can be used at lower than rated voltage. The current rating is not changed by using them at lower voltage. Wire sizes for 6 volt systems are typically 2 sizes larger than for 12 volt systems, as operating currents are typically higher in 6 volt system.

For example, if a circuit is wired with 16 gauge wire in a 12 volt system use 14 gauge wire on a 6 volt system. A 45 watt 6 volt headlight draws about 7 amps while a 55 watt 12 volt headlight draws about 4.3 amps.

Wed Jan 22, 2014 10:54 pm

Just wondering
Iv built dozens of cars and trucks in my life and one of the fist lessons learned was its much cheaper and better to get a harness that’s already made.

The last one I got was only 160 bucks from speed way (went in my cj5)…. It would take days to make and round up all the stuff that came with it.

Why scratch build?

Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:05 pm

HillBuggy wrote: Just wondering
Iv built dozens of cars and trucks in my life and one of the fist lessons learned was its much cheaper and better to get a harness that’s already made.

The last one I got was only 160 bucks from speed way (went in my cj5)…. It would take days to make and round up all the stuff that came with it.

Why scratch build?

X2