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Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:01 pm

If you ask me that one looks cool. But how's it any better than the old style?
I mean, it's the same amount of work and labor to install. The ride will be THE SAME no matter what adjuster you use- the physical change in the suspension is the same whether you modify beetle adjusters (which is VERY easy) or buy Bus Boys adjusters for $150 or whatever they are.
ALL adjusters will offer the same ride as the suspension is adjusted.
I dont care what it looks like installed as long as it works. That last one pictured looks a little fancy, I'd pass.
Go with drop spindles first. Adjusters next if you MUST go lower.
Or start with air bags if you have the bling $!

Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:24 pm

I dont believe it will be the same Bub, this adjuster is meant to modify the top tube only, the bottom one being left stock, which IMO is simply stupid. You would not only be installing an adjuster of questionable design but you would also be overstressing the lower torsion springs because they are being held in the stock position and taking more weight than the uppers, you might as well just snap them apart in a power shear right now and be done with it. How many times have we seen people cutting and narrowing stock beams and finding busted springs, with both upper and lower spring packs taking equal weight.

At least with the Avis (?) adjusters both spring packs are being rotated the same amount, and retain their spring rate and distribution, not to mention the toothed positive locks!

Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:37 pm

Ooh. I thought it was basically the same.
Why only the top tube? Who's bright idea was that? Still I can do that with a beetle adjust for $13. Or I can pull the leaves out for free, same thing.
Nuf' said.

Sat Mar 18, 2006 5:40 am

Geesh..here's the web site

http://www.bluebird-type2.co.uk/

Okay, For the record I broke down and bought one of those avis adjuster beams made from a company known far and wide ....and well I just don't like how the adjusters move, or how they don't ..... unless you use a air hammer??? (I know it's not the adjusters fault or there design)to the back side of the tube as you rotate the torsion arm :? Thats what they told me everyone does... I thought once you drill out/or twist(Bus Boys way) the dimples, the center spring anchor will rotate freely...Oh and by the way this other beam adjuster has been around since the early 90's and thought I would post a question about them....let me tend to my wounds now

Sat Mar 18, 2006 12:00 pm

Please do not take this personally, I tend to make passionate arguments about things and in this case none of it was directed toward you.

As far as the spring anchors, I believe even after removing the dimples you still need to get in there with a pipe and whallop them loose with a hammer.

Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:42 am

Ah, lowering your Baywindow bus.....here is a small list

Front:
5" narrowed beam
2.5" Drpped Spindles
Narrowed Tie Rods
Rebuilt Trailing Arms
Rear:
Boomerang Plate Kit
Bus Boys Shocks
* C- Notching the frame
Your looking at close to $2k in parts, so make sure this is what you want to do with your bus!

Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:22 am

yeah, so i have seen a fair amount of droppped buses since iam going to do it now as well and i havent heard of people complaining about nothing the rear frame for clearance of the rear axle. do many people bend axles or are you all notching your frame and just not saying anything about doing it. is there a good way to notch your frame? i have a couple diff ideas to do it but not sure if there is a tried and true method. so let me know. thanks guys, you have all been very informative. --zeph

Fri Mar 24, 2006 10:32 am

Notch the frame in the rear?
How DAMN low do you need it? In an IRS bus thats pretty extreme.
Bending axles? What are you talking about?

Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:56 pm

Bub wrote: Notch the frame in the rear?
How DAMN low do you need it? In an IRS bus thats pretty extreme.
Bending axles? What are you talking about?

Actually, this bus doesn't look that low, but he had big tires and 15" wheels on it. I remember hearing the trailing arms or axles hitting the frame on bumps...

Fri Mar 24, 2006 7:46 pm

*This image is From Franz and Hoodride*

Here is a c-notched rear frame. It was stated in the topic that this picture was from that if done again, the c-notch would be deeper and wider.

Quote: rear: Release or if needed, loosen the parking brake cables. Remove rear wheels. unbolt (3 bolts) springplate from axle and use a strap to pull and hold the axle towards the rear of the car to give room to work. unbolt (4 bolts) from torsion housing. Mark a few marks on the sping plate and torsion bar with a chisel so you have a starting reference point. Carefully pry the springplate from the torsion bar, use caution that the torsion bar doesnt come out and also because the springplate is under heavy tension. Rotate the springplate upwards 1-3 splines (depending on the drop you want) and set it back on the torsion bar. Bolt everything back up.

Disclaimer: This is information i have found online, i have not personally used any of this information myself....yet...

Sat Mar 25, 2006 8:59 am

I'm all about a nicely lowered bus, but cutting notches in the frame that deep? pass.
That can't be good for the structural health of my bus.

Sat Mar 25, 2006 4:30 pm

it is ridiculous to notch a frame like that without making any attempt to reinforce it. I would sister a thick plate of 5160 steel along the framerail and weld it as a reinforcement at the very least.

Also, when releasing the spring plates, I find the safest way is to support the bus with jackstands and use the saddle of your floorjack to control the descent of the spring plates. Place the saddle so the end of the spring plate sits in the cup, lift it off the stop, remove the bushing cover and pry the plate out enough to clear the stop, and carefully lower the jack. Easy controlled release of spring tension, no one gets hurt.

Sun Mar 26, 2006 6:35 pm

Bub:
My son's bus has Audi 5 spoke 16x7's also. I plan to use the same set up you have on your doormobile. What did you do about shocks? I would love to put Bilstiens but they don't make the stock hieght rears anymore. I might have to pony up for the Koni's. I have read that you use a front shock for teh rear when lowering 2-4 inches. That would mean I can use the front Bilstien for the rear, but what would I use on the front?

Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:36 pm

honestly am not an expert on which shock would work best. especially on a lowered bus. Once you go away from stock any parts you use is a crapshoot as to how well they'll function. If you use drop spindles then you'd just stick with the stock length shock of whatever brand turns you on.
My bus has stock (crappy) bus kyb's on front and...some red (suspicious) shocks on the rear. I havent removed them completely to see what brand they are. But the front is toooo soft. The rear may be okay, I cant tell because the fronts are so soft.

Back to the frame notching thing...seems like when you go that low you're waaay past where the snubbers and stops are bottomed out- ? The springplates have to be notched too, --unless you use those springplate spacer plates? They relocate the position of teh axle in relation to the springplate .
And up front You'd have NO suspension at all unless you tubbed it.

Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:05 am

Dub-
the bus below was not tubbed. it rides with a 6" (maybe 5") narrowed beam and 2.5" dropped spindles. it had the Bus Boys "boomerang Kit" on the back and the c-notch from the earlier picture. it was also turned 2 splines.

Mon Mar 27, 2006 10:22 pm

When I c-notched my frame I DID reinforce the inner part where I had cut. Keep in mind that the body and floor are also structural piece on a bus, I did not have any strength issues with the c-notch...but I never towed anything. AS you can see in the picture, the CV joint boot rubbed the notch a little and flung greese all over everything. I SLAMMED that bay, the engine was 3/4" off of the ground, and there was 1/4" between the top of the front tires and the wheel wells. YES, it did ride like shit. YES, I broke some stuff....but thats the price you pay. I loved the way it looked. If I still had that bus the only thing I would do is tub the front, and lower it some more. :D

To give you what an 11" overall drop looks like:

Dragging in 2" snow:

For more pictures and the full story:http://www.hoodride.com/nucleus/Projects.php?itemid=324&catid=46

Mon Mar 27, 2006 10:30 pm

Long-roofs wrote:

Actually, this bus doesn't look that low, but he had big tires and 15" wheels on it. I remember hearing the trailing arms or axles hitting the frame on bumps...

What are the Specs on this one?

Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:24 am

Franz wrote: When I c-notched my frame I DID reinforce the inner part where I had cut

Got any pics of the inside? How did you get the plate in there, it looks pretty tight.

Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:04 am

will-g wrote: Long-roofs wrote:

Actually, this bus doesn't look that low, but he had big tires and 15" wheels on it. I remember hearing the trailing arms or axles hitting the frame on bumps...

What are the Specs on this one?

i just noticed a hole in the side of this bus, what the hell is this for?

Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:23 am

Quote: i just noticed a hole in the side of this bus, what the hell is this for? For an extension cord. It is just missing the cover.