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Sat Jan 05, 2019 6:37 am

Hello kinggeorge.

PO of one of my projects used a cutting torch to try to remove parts. What a stupid mess. He ended up cutting off pieces that didn't need to go, then abandoned the project after he realized he was in over his head.

These cars are made from stamped steel pieces spot-welded together. The best way to repair many areas is usually to drill out the spot welds and remove the damaged piece. If you remove the engine you will have clear access to all sides of the area you need to repair.

Sat Jan 05, 2019 7:46 am

Q-Dog wrote: Hello kinggeorge.

PO of one of my projects used a cutting torch to try to remove parts. What a stupid mess. He ended up cutting off pieces that didn't need to go, then abandoned the project after he realized he was in over his head.

These cars are made from stamped steel pieces spot-welded together. The best way to repair many areas is usually to drill out the spot welds and remove the damaged piece. If you remove the engine you will have clear access to all sides of the area you need to repair.

Believe me, I've thought of how I could possibly get in there to drill out the spot welds. Done lots of those. But this is a tight angled area I'm replacing and even with the engine out, I wonder if it would get me much further.

I get that people could certainly cause far more cutting damage than they were hoping for but it does not have to be that way. Using a Victor 000 size cutting torch tip gives me a pretty well-controlled small cutting area. I've removed enough of the bad metal around the area where I can reach (cutting wheel/sawzall) that I can see pretty much everything so unless I flinch or sneeze, I should not end up cutting away metal that I want to leave in place. My main thing/concern is can I safely use an oxy-acetylene cutting head in there without the oxygen flow somehow reacting with the oily residue in the area I'm working and causing it to blow up. Or am I overreacting? I'm sure people use cutting torches on the exhaust parts at times and not only is that using the same setup (but with larger cutting tips) as me but in even oilier areas.

Sat Jan 05, 2019 8:14 am

It does not sound all that possible. The Oxygen would have to mix evenly with the fuel and then get ignited all at once.

It is preferable to remove the grease; or what ever, and cut the piece out with anything but a torch. There's 4" grinders that are extended ,3" cutoff tools that are extended, you could use a ball bit in a die grinder etcetera.

Sat Jan 05, 2019 10:13 am

Once the torch is lit, the oxygen is burning ... can't really mix with other stuff at that point. I would be more concerned with starting a grease or gas fire from the heat and sparks of the torch.

I was always the lookout when my dad worked on stuff like this. He was a welder, not a mechanic, so he was quick to light up the torch when he got into a tough situation on a vehicle. I put out a few fires. Keep a couple of big fire extinguishers handy. Good luck.

Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:12 pm

And here is what I"m hoping to be the correct answer. Plus it was an opportunity to get a new tool! The 110 degree angle die grinder. As you can see from the photo, it fits in the area by holding it upright and should be able to plunge down into the section I want to cut out. Tomorrow will be cutting day to try it out. I just quickly held it in there tonight to make sure it looks like it will actually fit. Tomorrow with proper safety gear on and my compressor spun-up, I'll get this done, hopefully. No cutting torch after all, I hope.

Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:31 pm

And after cutting this area out (on both sides of the bus) a lot of trim-cutting/grinding and paint/rust removal before preparing the new metal to be welded in. I do love working on this stuff but tight small areas hard to maneuver in test my patience and I usually have a lot of patience.

Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:11 am

I went garage sailing this weekend and picked up a non-working Millermatic 180 for pretty cheap. I'm new to welding, and wanted to know if anyone had suggestions for what I could look for to fix it. The person I bought the welder from had no clue. Her hubs left and she just wanted his stuff gone. It looks like the welding tip is clogged, and it came with a bunch of spools of wire (I think 6 flux core and 5 non-flux core). She said she thought there was a bottle of gas that he used with it sometimes, but she hadn't found it.

I'm running a new outlet in my garage for it this week, and was hoping whatever is wrong with it is an easy fix.

Thu Sep 12, 2019 12:42 pm

One of the most under-rated welders IMHO is the Hobart 210 MPV. You have the ability to move between 110v/220v, parts are available, they are built well, and the price is more than reasonable for what your getting.

I got started on a 110v Chinese buzz box w/ no shielding gas. My welds were horrible. My cousin restores WW2 Jeeps and he had the Hobart 210 MPV, and after using it, I was hooked.

Best welding investment I ever made. It can handle more than I'll ever throw at it; so it can grow with me and I don't have to upgrade every couple of years. It was a one-and-done investment for me unless I decide to go with a Tig welder later.

Sat Jul 18, 2020 11:56 pm

I want to get into welding and learn my way into making repairs on my 65 KG.

From what I had read/watched MIG+gas welding would be the way to go and that's what I am considering. But, I have a few questions...

Early posts indicate that TIG welders are more expensive than MIG welders. Has that changed? Looking thru Amazon.in, TIG welders seem to be half the cost of MIG welders. What am I missing?

Here're 2 links (make sure to stay on Amanon.in not .com)

MIG welder = ~ $500

https://www.amazon.in/GK-36-250-MIG-ACCESSORIES/dp...amp;sr=8-9

TIG welder = ~ $200

https://www.amazon.in/JPT-Inverter-Digital-Display...amp;sr=8-6

What am I missing? Or is this TIG set up somehow limited?

If this TIG set up was indeed ok for the purpose I had in mind - be able to build garage racks/engine stands etc and do body panel welding, should I reconsider and go with TIG instead?

The other consideration on the posts here seem to be 110V vs. 220V. India is 220V standard. And the max amp on regular ckts is 6A and 15A on power. The Mig system I've looked at (not the Amazon one) is about 240A, 220V single phase so it'll run in power ckts in the garage. But, is that overkill and should I look for lower Amp systems?

I'm not looking at the ones on Amazon as they mostly seem Chinese stuff and I want to support the local business while here. I've found a local manufacturer who has this on their web site and heard they have good service.

https://www.cruxweld.com/welding-cutting-equipments/mig-250/

ANy thoughts on this product? I don't know how much it costs as they dont't list it. But will give them a call this week.

Sun Jul 19, 2020 6:38 am

For one this Indian TIG won't weld aluminum which requires AC. Without doing alot of deep investigation - this welder may or may not have a tiny duty cycle. Duty cycle is how long it can run before it overheats.

Are you sure this Indian TIG isn't made in China? ;)

This machine is an inverter welder which can increase its efficiency but also makes it lighter to carry. No huge copper wound transformer inside.

I normally would aim anyone in the USA with the budget towards 220V machines b/c they can weld thicker materials, better duty cycle, etc.

My welder is a Lincoln 180T for example. Mine welds up to 1/2" thick materials albeit with a small duty cycle at that thickness. With thinner materials my welder can weld all day.

A friend's welder is a gasless (fluxcore only) 120V welder that is limited to 1/16th inch materials. As long as he only weld door skins and fenders he'll be fine. Anything else and he has outgrown the machine. At least it is cheap.

The Indian welders you've linked to are probably okay - the specs are good. With the internet you can probably get parts via international mail albeit at the speed of international mail. I have an expensive ebike purchased from Aliexpress and the delivery took forever but the bike has been fine for several seasons. I've purchased things from Europe directly too.

TIG has the potential to make the most beautiful welds but requires much practice. Projects like carts and shelving is a great way to practice. MIG is fine too.

Ultimately I would like to buy a TIG but for now I'll get along with a MIG.

Sun Jul 19, 2020 8:04 am

I’m sure both the amazon.in items I posted are Chinese. Not buying them. It was just to illustrate the question of why does tig seem to 50pct of mig here in India.

I’ve been also recommended another brand which is French GYS but manufactured locally.

I do buy internationally mostly from Eu as shipping is still reasonable on dhl/royalmail as long as u are not in a hurry. Problem is customs duty is 50pct of of total cost of item plus shipping.

Fri Dec 25, 2020 9:57 am

Greetings, everyone.

I have been wanting to learn to weld for a long time. I have decided to not wait any longer.

I have read through this thread. It has been very informative and helpful. Thanks to all who contributed.

I have also been reading other sites dealing with welding, and watching videos. Based on what I want to do, I think I am looking to get a 110v MIG.

My first job welding will be to install a new shifter bracket in the tunnel of my Beetle. Later on, if and when I take the body off the frame, my Napoleon's hat might need a little minor surgery. I want the satisfaction of doing these things myself, as well as learning how to weld.

I figure, to do the shift bracket, that spot welds will do the trick.

I also have another car that will require a small amount of sheet metal patch work. I will not even attempt that until I get really good with the welder.

So first, is a 110 MIG the correct choice for what I want to do?

There is a welding shop in my town, so I thought I'd go there first, as I prefer to shop locally when I can. I don't mind paying a little more for name-brand quality, serviceability, and to support my local brick-n-mortars.

I have other questions, but I'll stop here so I don't ask what could be a bunch of irrelevant questions.

Fri Dec 25, 2020 3:55 pm

110volt mig, co2, .030 wire, is PERFECT for 2-3mm thickness,
Ok up to 4mm thickness, depending on the design of the joint, and if it's plugged into a good outlet.

If the wiring in your workshop is at all sketchy you may have to install a dedicated outlet no matter if you go with a 110 or 220 machine, in fact IF the wiring is wimpy or very FAR from the breaker box 220 machine makes it easier....... so don't let that be a factor in your choice.

Fri Dec 25, 2020 9:38 pm

modok wrote: 110volt mig, co2, .030 wire, is PERFECT for 2-3mm thickness,
Ok up to 4mm thickness, depending on the design of the joint, and if it's plugged into a good outlet.

If the wiring in your workshop is at all sketchy you may have to install a dedicated outlet no matter if you go with a 110 or 220 machine, in fact IF the wiring is wimpy or very FAR from the breaker box 220 machine makes it easier....... so don't let that be a factor in your choice.

Almost everything I've seen so far mentions an argon/CO2 mix. What's the practical difference between the mix and straight CO2, as far as shielding capability?

Fri Dec 25, 2020 11:48 pm

Pros of straight co2
It's cheaper, easier to get filled up (at paintball or beverage supply places)
Bottle is smaller (more portable)
Works better welding upside down (it goes UP not down)
Less chance of being contaminated (I have had bad bottles of argon, but never got a contaminated c02 bottle, probably because it's a liquid)

Cons
welding spatter slightly worse
It "only" works with carbon steel filler wire (not stainless or aluminim)
Welding fumes slightly worse
Can't do spray transfer (which is ok because machines smaller than 200 amps usually can't do spray transfer anyway)

Differences
The puddle flows easier, which is usually good, but it flows SO easily you could say there is slightly less control.
The working speed is slower, heat and penetration is sightly more for the same settings because of the slower working speed.
Which is....maybe good or bad depending, or rather just different.
The slower speed is easier IMO, then again the result may be slightly more distortion, BUT less chance of being brittle due to less rapid cooling, so yet again not really better or worse. It reduces the amount of carbon in the weld which for sheetmetal work should be a pro, but could be a pro or con depending on the type of steel you are welding.

The best way to do a mig weld is, you make a groove, and fill the groove.
In that case only 25% of the weld is exposed to the shielding gas. I prefer co2 for that kind of joint.

Doing a outside corner joint, or building up surface, or just plain making a part entirely out of weld.... then far more % of the weld could be exposed to gas, so then I MIGHT prefer the 25%/75 co2/argon mix.

but overall... NOT a lot of difference. IMO getting a good machine and using a good quality filler wire makes more of a difference than the choice of straight or mixed shielding gas.

Sat Jan 16, 2021 6:43 pm

IRQVET wrote: One of the most under-rated welders IMHO is the Hobart 210 MPV. You have the ability to move between 110v/220v, parts are available, they are built well, and the price is more than reasonable for what your getting.

I got started on a 110v Chinese buzz box w/ no shielding gas. My welds were horrible. My cousin restores WW2 Jeeps and he had the Hobart 210 MPV, and after using it, I was hooked.

Best welding investment I ever made. It can handle more than I'll ever throw at it; so it can grow with me and I don't have to upgrade every couple of years. It was a one-and-done investment for me unless I decide to go with a Tig welder later.

I had been wondering if the 210MVP would be enough for welding tube frames. I know that its plenty for sheet metal/body panel work, but I've been unsure how it'll do for a knock down Warrior frame. Been looking at getting the 210MVP as a replacement for my Northern Industrial 140i that I bought in 2013. Unfortunately it's no longer supported far as hardware goes for internals and Hobart still supports a lot of their legacy models. I'm certain the welder I have would be adequate for welding a knock down kit, but I'd rather not chance it.

Thu Jan 21, 2021 10:33 pm

So I visited a local welding shop (that sells welding equipment but doesn't do welding), and after a somewhat lengthy conversation, determined that for my needs, a professional quality machine, and the costs attached to it, will be overkill for the very occasional use I will be giving it.

After reading through this thread again, and the Eastwood 135 thread, I have determined that the Eastwood's major drawback is having to send it to them for repairs when needed. Shipping costs will probably be more than the machine or repair costs. Or I could never run into that situation (ah, to be omniscient!).

The Eastwood's main pros are its infinitely adjustable voltage control, and its excellent price.

Other top choices:

Lincoln 140T at Home Depot. This is very tempting because: a) I work there, and b) the return policy is very easy - keep your receipt and don't bring back a car wreck and you're good.

Hobart Handler 140. This is a good deal from Northerntool.com. With the free shipping it less $$ than the Lincoln 140T I can pick up locally. And someone in this thread stated that the (modern) Lincoln and Hobart 140s are comparable.

Both the Lincoln and Hobart appear to have tapped voltage controls. I would prefer continuous voltage control instead. If someone could recommend another welder, besides the Eastwood, in the same general category as these three, with continuous voltage control, I would give it serious consideration.

Thanks!

Fri Jan 22, 2021 2:04 am

Surprised they still make the 140t, that's probably what you want.

I don't care for the infinite controls, would prefer it they had detents to more quickly and repeatably switch between the two or at most three different settings I actually use.
Realistically for a given size wire there is a useful max, a useful min, and perhaps a nice middle.
Outside of that what you really need is a different machine or a different wire, the rest of the "control" can be done by travel speed, stickout, and timing.

I have thought in the past the millers and hobarts with only Four taps... needs perhaps at least one more tap. like between 1 and 2,
I now have BOTH a isolation boost/buck transformer AND a 30 amp variac, either of I can use to finely adjust the power :twisted:
So maybe....if my miller 135xp miller has a infinite control... can it do sheetmetal even better than the eastwood?
not really, still about the same. only bothered to try it a few times. Grass is always greener, as they say.

Some people prefer infinite controls. Hard to say how much of that is mental and how much isn't. OR maybe that's the point. it's all mental.
I want to memorize what setting the machine is "in" so I know exactly what it's gonna do,.... perhaps other people want to adjust the machine to match what setting they are in, how many cups of coffee? :lol:

Fri Jan 22, 2021 8:30 am

modok, thank you for your post. It was very helpful.

Lincoln now makes a 141, although the 140 is still widely available.

Thu Oct 21, 2021 3:02 am

This week I picked up a
UNIMIG VIPER 185 (Mig/Tig/Stick ) https://www.totaltools.com.au/134294-unimig-viper-...kumjrvm185
UNIMIG 30 Plasma Cutter

I also purchased an air compressor - 210L per min. to run the plasma cutter.

Mig seems easy enough... it's the TIG I want to learn which means I need a second bottle - pure argon.

I nearly purchased a dedicated AC/DC TIG machine but decided instead to stick with MIG/TIG with lift start.
Last few days I've been out scouring the local industrial area of scrape steel :)[/url]