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Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:28 am

vancurenw wrote: I have painted sections of two fenders (both different colors) with eight coats. I have noticed that the paint is very soft, and can be scratched off with a fingernail. Will it cure harder over time? Or is this a result of a common mistake (paint too thin, too thick, etc.)? I am using the american rustoleum. It goes on great, wet sands great, and looks fantastic in the sun. My only issue is the softness of it...

How much cure time did you allow between coats?

Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:15 am

vancurenw wrote: I have painted sections of two fenders (both different colors) with eight coats. I have noticed that the paint is very soft, and can be scratched off with a fingernail. Will it cure harder over time? Or is this a result of a common mistake (paint too thin, too thick, etc.)? I am using the american rustoleum. It goes on great, wet sands great, and looks fantastic in the sun. My only issue is the softness of it...

it will harden over time, it usually takes about 3 months to totally harden. also depends on temp/humidity.

Fri Apr 14, 2006 11:16 am

Frankenbeetle wrote: vancurenw wrote: I have painted sections of two fenders (both different colors) with eight coats. I have noticed that the paint is very soft, and can be scratched off with a fingernail. Will it cure harder over time? Or is this a result of a common mistake (paint too thin, too thick, etc.)? I am using the american rustoleum. It goes on great, wet sands great, and looks fantastic in the sun. My only issue is the softness of it...

How much cure time did you allow between coats?

at least 8 hours, more if it's cold/humid, try wetsanding it, if it does'nt ball up, you can recoat or wetsand. 8)

Fri Apr 14, 2006 10:47 pm

I gave 8 -12 hours between each coat. I would apply one coat in the morning (about 8:00am) and the next at night (about 9:00 or so). I also wet sanded after every other coat, and built to 8 coats total. Looks great, just seems very soft.

Sat Apr 15, 2006 9:04 pm

Beautiful i might just try this, how much prep is needed to make it look good? 100% 75% 50%

thanks
Jake

Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:42 am

after reading all of this and watching all the details,
i would rather just stick with a inexpensive single stage
auto paint.
it seems alot of going around your butt to get to your elbow on this one,
not to mention saving how much over auto paint?
i can get a gallon of Omni for around 60 bucks in any color,
hardner is 8 bucks and a gallon of reducer is 16?
:-s

under 90 bucks?
is 40 bucks more worth haveing auto paint?
(i have also seen mis-tints for sale at auto paint stores for around 35 and cheaper)
your paint looks good, don't get me wrong,just alot of work for
something that isn't quite as good.

Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:12 pm

VolkDubz wrote: Beautiful i might just try this, how much prep is needed to make it look good? 100% 75% 50%

thanks
Jake

250%, just like any other paint job.

Gerald

Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:19 pm

i learned to paint by doing it.
no one showed me how to.
i learned with lacquer and moved to
enamal.
the way to learn is to try.
sure,you can paint with a roller as 74 did..
kudos to him,.i did not find fault with his work.
i just would rather spend a bit more and get auto paint as i said before.
you might even be able to use a brush and a roller with that too if you use some retarder in it to slow it getting hard.
just don't want to see anyone give up.
we all can learn if we try.

Sun Apr 16, 2006 8:44 pm

painted with Omni quite a few years ago in the backyard no less
with a 30 gal compresser and a sharp paintgun

back then Omni was like 40 to 45 bucks including a gal including reducer.

Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:34 pm

I look at that Charger and all I want to do is take it to the K-Mart parking lot and do burnouts until Roscoe and Cletus show up.

Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:04 am

Major Woody wrote: I look at that Charger and all I want to do is take it to the K-Mart parking lot and do burnouts until Roscoe and Cletus show up.

funny thing is that the cops actually requested a burnout, i satisfied their needs!!!! true story, cops pulled up as i was getting in my car after buying gas, they looked at the car for 15 mins, radioed their buddies, and asked me when i was leaving to "show them what it's got", oh i showed them allright!!!!! 8)

Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:12 pm

Where-abouts are you, 74? (I want to see if there's any chance of me getting a ride!) :D

We have a K-Mart close by! :wink:

Fri Apr 21, 2006 7:05 am

BugginOutNow wrote: Where-abouts are you, 74? (I want to see if there's any chance of me getting a ride!) :D

We have a K-Mart close by! :wink:

toronto, canada 8) :shock:

Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:10 pm

Anyone tried the Wagner power sprayer?

Tue Apr 25, 2006 3:31 pm

DaveB wrote: Anyone tried the Wagner power sprayer?

i suppose you could, but its much eaiser to use a roller 8)

Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:45 am

is this the tremclad paint used
http://www.rustoleum.com/brand.asp?frm_brand_id=41&SBL=5
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=541&SBL=5

Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:48 pm

oops forgot to add the question
I found some posting commenting on the white rust paint

"Sounds interesting, but Tremclad would not be my choice of paints - over the years, I have
used it for many areas, and it does not stand up well compared with a good quality enamel
paint. Tremclad white has a tendency to yellow with age,
so I don't know how colour stable the other colours would be also."

Could you tell me if that is a common compliant with the white rust paint ???
response from tremclad
Good afternoon

Thank-you for contacting Rust-Oleum Consumer Brands Canada.
Our Tremclad is an Alkyd enamel oil base paint and it will yellow overtime.
Excessive and repeated heat can accelerate the yellowing process.
However the Tremclad is not an automotive paint and is not as tough as an automotive paint. We would not recommend it on a vehicle.

You can not tint the Tremclad yourself, beside the colours that are manufactured, Canadian Tire and Rona have the ability to mix 80 other colours in that line.

If you have any other questions please contact us at 1-800-387-9879.

Regards,
Rust-Oleum Canada Technical Support

Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:20 pm

tclark wrote: Good afternoon

Thank-you for contacting Rust-Oleum Consumer Brands Canada.
Our Tremclad is an Alkyd enamel oil base paint and it will yellow overtime.
Excessive and repeated heat can accelerate the yellowing process.
However the Tremclad is not an automotive paint and is not as tough as an automotive paint. We would not recommend it on a vehicle.

You can not tint the Tremclad yourself, beside the colours that are manufactured, Canadian Tire and Rona have the ability to mix 80 other colours in that line.

If you have any other questions please contact us at 1-800-387-9879.

Regards,
Rust-Oleum Canada Technical Support

1. it will absoultly NOT yellow, alkyd enamel is really tough paint.

2. you can tint it at any paint store

3. my vw like all runs HOT, and i have not had any problems with the paint on the rear apron or deck lid for the past 6yrs and 35000mi on my 74 bug which i painted in dec 1999.

4. that person has no idea of what they are talking about, or they are just telling you not to do it for legal reasons, they want to avoid a lawsuit.

5. tremclad actually called me and asked me how i painted my cars, they want to come and see my cars, and sent me 2 free cases of paint and clearcoat!!!!

Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:33 pm

As a painter I have to disagree with you there, 74. A white alkyd paint will yellow. It contains linseed oil which darkens/yellows substantially in areas where it is not exposed to sunlight. This paint also contains no hardener. You worked miracles with that Charger but the paint is a far cry from automotive grade urethane in durability and resistance to impact, scratching and UV rays.

Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:50 pm

Major Woody wrote: As a painter I have to disagree with you there, 74. A white alkyd paint will yellow. It contains linseed oil which darkens/yellows substantially in areas where it is not exposed to sunlight. This paint also contains no hardener. You worked miracles with that Charger but the paint is a far cry from automotive grade urethane in durability and resistance to impact, scratching and UV rays.

as for white i can't say, but every other color i used in the past (and it's alot) i've never had any issues from yellowing. as far as i knew (printing industry backround as a millwright) red is the color and anything derived from red because red is the only color that can't be made completely using synthetics, therefor it contains natural pigments which of course are supseptible to UV rays, ect......orange is derived from red, and my 74 bug which has like i said eairler 35000mi and 6yrs+ and there is no color difference on the parts not exposed to sunlight (like underhood, inside door jambs ect...). now, i am not trying to compete with pro paint jobs, and i have shoot paint on my own cars several times using single stage paints, but i can tell you the tremclad paint is 10 times more resistant to stone chips, scratching, and chemicals (like when i spilled brake fluid on the fender in the hot sun, doohhhhh!). i've sprayed about 10 cars personally with single stage paints, and have gotten professional results, and i completely understand the process, BUT this paint is tough as nails, lasts long, is easy to do, and costs next to nothing except for your time. but if your so convinced that it's crap paint then so be it, i respect your decisions and opinions. :shock: :lol: