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  View original topic: gland nut help
smitty Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:10 pm

It would be fantastic if someone could post a pic of a gland nut for a full automatic T-3 trans OR tell me where to find an automatic gland nut OR if anyone can verify if the one I have is correct. Thanks for any help.




Mr. Bubblehead Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:14 pm

I don't think you have the right one, I'm pretty sure the automatic ones were solid...maybe that one is for a Type 1 autostick?

smitty Sat Mar 25, 2006 6:13 am

Thanks Mr. Bubblehead, but.....

I am certain they are not solid. The torque converter has a nipple that fits into the gland nut for added support. Consequently, it fits the one I have perfectly.

C'mon people, dig through those manuals! Somebody has to know for sure what the difference is.

I believe I have stumped the 'all-knowing' Sambanites :shock:

smitty Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:29 pm

Well it would appear I didn't stump everyone....Russ Wolfe, you Da' Man


thanks to everyone that played!

brntrtt5 Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:32 pm

just make sure the one u use does not have a pilot bearing in it. Speaking from experience the flexplate will not bolt flush to the converter.
the one you have looks to be one for a manual tranny without the pilot bearing

notchback Sat Mar 25, 2006 9:55 pm

From a '71 engine that I tore down:



smitty Sat Mar 25, 2006 11:33 pm

Ok, now the one that Notch posted looks like a MT trans minus the bearing, based on the thickness of the flats when compared to the pics I originally posted of the MT and the 'mystery' ones. This puts me right back to square one, no pun intended. I'm beginning to think it might be easier to find a MT chassis and do a body swap than it is to find the correct gland nut :?

Russ Wolfe Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:19 am

Yeah, I got some dimensions from Jim Adney for the automatic galnd nut. the thickness of the hex for a T-3 Automatic is .332" The manual trans one is .408". It is slightly thinner than a manual trans but thicker than the automatic stickshift T-1 one.
If Neal could measure the known one he has, to confirm it, this would be appreciated.
I am trying to get the correct dimension so I can make some from manual trans ones.
Using the wrong one can ruin the drive plalte. because it will always be in a bind, or the center nub will not be supported properly.

smitty Sun Mar 26, 2006 11:13 am

And if he can take in ID measurement of the opening with the flats as well, it would be most appreciated.

thanks for all the help and keep it coming, if we get enough people scratching their heads the answer is sure to turn up!

notchback Sun Mar 26, 2006 4:31 pm

smitty wrote: And if he can take in ID measurement of the opening with the flats as well, it would be most appreciated.

thanks for all the help and keep it coming, if we get enough people scratching their heads the answer is sure to turn up! You want me to work? It only took 5 days to take a picture, so it'll probably take even longer for me to measure it. :lol:

I'll try to get to it tomorrow and post the measurements.

smitty Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:59 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: the center nub will not be supported properly.

2 new questions:
is the nipple on the torque converter there for support or is to allow for the output shaft? Looking inside the converter I can see a small cog in the nipple.

Notchback, will you sell me the one you have?

Sorry I'm beating this issue to death but I really want my car on the road for Bug-a-Paluza April 22-23.



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