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wewantphil Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:14 pm

question to folks who have installed the SPAL kit. Looks like the cover for the manual crank in your door panel is pretty close to flush. Seeing as I am replacing the door panels with new ones that don't yet have a cut out for the crank, do you think it's close enough to either not have to cut a hole and then cover it, or perhaps shave the height of the crank gear down slightly and eliminate the need to cut a hole then cover it? I'm sure I will have my answer once I'm way deep into this project, but just thought I'd ask in case someone can remember how their install went. :)

Zeitgeist 13 Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:35 pm

I believe the SPAL units use the stock manual winders, and the crank post definitely sticks out proud of the panel.

ALIKA T3 Tue Jan 19, 2016 1:28 am

Zeitgeist 13 wrote: I believe the SPAL units use the stock manual winders, and the crank post definitely sticks out proud of the panel.

It does but I already documented a few years ago how to install it recessed andf cleaner: you can put 1/4" spacers to get the shaft inside the door panel.
I'm actually doing it again on another van figuring out a better motor location, next to the door opening handle.It's tight, but it fits. I'm figuring out a bracket solution :wink:

wewantphil Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:25 pm

I somewhat started my spal windows project today after installing remote keyless lock actuators earlier. I plan to use both of the taller spacers to recess the crank about 3/4" into the door in hopes that the whole works will fit behind the panel. we'll see how that goes. not sure about motor placement yet but might just go with what was pictured in this thread. what's wrong with that location? (beside taking up space where you could put a larger speaker)

ledogboy Fri Jan 29, 2016 12:11 am

Hey all-

I just started working on installing my MES locks and Spal power windows this evening. On my '86, there is a channel in the door that is preventing me from getting the actuator wires to where I want them. The speaker wires actually poke through a grommet and then are sandwiched between the sheet metal and the door card like this:



Which seems different than the later model westy pictures earlier in this thread:



Any thoughts on the best way to route all of this wire? The channel seems to prevent me from either getting up to the actuator, or down to where the Spal will go. So far my best thought is to install a grommet in a hole in the sheet metal and sandwich the wires ala the speaker wire- but the five wire actuator bundle is a hell of a lot bulkier. Here is a pic of the hole I'm thinking of using (was covered by tape at the factory, from the look of it):



Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Ryan

ALIKA T3 Fri Jan 29, 2016 1:20 am

I'm doing the same thing on an 85, but the Spal motor and cables will be behind the panel to not have a hump.

I looked at a factory power lock and window door, they have a hole and a large boot that goes from the van to the door. The hole is cut in the air channel, but you cannot cut one where it actually is. It is cut from factory before panel assembly of the door.

The best way is to cut a hole through both sides of the air channel (first one to access the back side, then a second hole) if you want to have wires routed the same way as factory :wink:



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