SuperDave63 |
Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:48 am |
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Where can you buy it? I saw it somewhere in the past week now I can't find it. I need it to weld in my ragtop clip...damn memory. |
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coW |
Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:17 am |
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I get it at my local welding supply house.
An aerosol can is not cheap ($22/can I think it was last), but you really only use it on joints that you weld so it lasts quite a while. |
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Major Woody |
Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:27 am |
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I bought the brush on kind with the brush in the lid of the bottle. $9 |
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Campy |
Thu Apr 27, 2006 11:25 pm |
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I used to use 3M weldable primer, which is a really good product, but when the price went up to about $30 per aerosol can some six years ago, I started using SEM weldable paint for about $10 per can. The 3M paint is way better, if you can afford it, and was available at Paint Mart. |
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southmaincustoms |
Mon May 01, 2006 12:48 am |
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I-CAR Says not to use weld through anymore. :shock: |
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coW |
Mon May 01, 2006 6:03 am |
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southmaincustoms wrote: I-CAR Says not to use weld through anymore. :shock:
Do they say why? |
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itlives |
Mon May 01, 2006 6:23 am |
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I got mine from the local auto paint store. I don't care what I-car says , use it.
It is high in zinc which melts and protects the panels that you can't get to after you weld them up. |
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southmaincustoms |
Mon May 01, 2006 11:20 am |
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I never really understood the use of weld through primer to begin with. I-CAR says that it's just contamination to the weld area. I don't use it, never have. I like to use POR-15 and an undercoating gun with a three foot hose spray atachment to get into areas under welds. There are always small spaces in the shetmetal to feed the small hose through to get to where you need to put the stuff.......most of the time. If you really must have weld through primer autobodydepot.com and eastwood .com have it. I would stay away from Eastwood unless you cant find it anywhere else. Kind'a high dollar....... |
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coW |
Mon May 01, 2006 12:00 pm |
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southmaincustoms wrote: I never really understood the use of weld through primer to begin with. I-CAR says that it's just contamination to the weld area. I don't use it, never have. I like to use POR-15 and an undercoating gun with a three foot hose spray atachment to get into areas under welds. There are always small spaces in the shetmetal to feed the small hose through to get to where you need to put the stuff.......most of the time. If you really must have weld through primer autobodydepot.com and eastwood .com have it. I would stay away from Eastwood unless you cant find it anywhere else. Kind'a high dollar.......
Interesting - that it contaminates makes sense, but I figure that some protection is better than none. Perhaps the strength of the weld is less, but one would imagine that having rust on an inside panel must be worse. Maybe weldable primer is the lesser of two evils?
I use it when I cannot get to the back of the weld or the inside of lapped panels (so where two panels meet). If I do have access, I use regular primer or rust bullet.
I also use this stuff called "liquid film" to protect things ( http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com ).
In spray form you can work it in nearly any crevice. It drives out air and water. People have used it successfully as undercoating as well, from what I hear.
I've tested it by covering some bare steel panels with it and laying them outside, exposed to the elements. Thus far, it does a good job: not a spot of corrosion after one month or so. |
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campacker |
Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:47 am |
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I wanted to bring this backout of the darkness and see if any one has used this and wished that they hadn't I am getting ready to replace a roof and having those places seald up when I am done makes me kinda worry about rust starting in the area after it is closed up. Use this stuff or not? |
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Campy |
Fri Aug 08, 2008 12:30 pm |
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Used "this"? What?
Primer should not be used. unless it is epoxy primer, as it will not block out moisture. |
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campacker |
Fri Aug 08, 2008 5:51 pm |
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Ok let me clarify "this" would simply be weldable primer any brand. "epoxy" contaminates welding using a zinc primer has metal in it and chemicals that make it so welding through it is possible. No coating on the metal spells rust but something is better than nothing, Right? Of course after the weld is done cleaning up the area and putting down a more appropriate primer on the surfaces that are still exposed and sealing it would create a place that is void of rust for years to come, I think.
My question would be has any one used a weldable primer and found that they did not get these results or the welds were breaking down the road? I am not looking for theory but testimony from experience, please. |
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johneliot |
Fri Aug 08, 2008 6:17 pm |
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I used weldable primer when I replaced the rear apron on my 69. That was 2 years ago and I've had no problems.
John |
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Campy |
Fri Aug 08, 2008 10:57 pm |
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I want to clarify my statement about primer: someone had mentioned using primer and I had to note that regular primer will not seal out moisture. Of course, epoxy primer would have to be used after welding.
3m weldable primer was great but when it went up to $30 per aerosol can, years ago, I bought a can of SEM weldable primer for about $8.00, and did it suck. Weldable primer is one thing that you don't want to try to save money on. |
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