TheSamba.com :: View topic - Putty on rear of overhead vent cover plate

Mon May 08, 2006 1:00 pm

DaveM wrote: The top most screw is correct/.. those screws should NOT be sheet metal screws. Some PO did a bad thing!

So if I get the correct screws, will my existing holes be salvagable, can I tap them out?

Mon May 08, 2006 1:06 pm

you may be able to tap them... the best you can do is try.

Sun Aug 20, 2006 4:55 pm

EverettB wrote: Yes, that stuff is seam sealer. I did that already, it worked very well.

Messy stuff

Everett, would you happen to recall the brand name of this seam sealer? Would you think that something like POR15 in there would be of value?

Also, does the rubber portion of the flap rest against something when it's in the closed position?

Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:45 am

3M All Around Autobody Sealant
Part # 08500

Yes, there is a seal there:

I used a front door seal as mine was totally missing but it is really a slightly different shaped seal. Note that my rivets are backwards in that photo and I corrected them later so the flap sits flush on the seal.

Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:58 pm

This is a very satisfying small repair to do. Replacing all the seals in the flap area, sealing it up tight and also replacing the rubber on the directional flap is a pleasant project and there is nothing like the soft "whump" of the flap snapping into place or the flaps moving smoothly from side to side.

I got NO air leaks now, and all the metal up there is rustfree and smooth gray! :D

Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:05 pm

Major Woody wrote: This is a very satisfying small repair to do. Replacing all the seals in the flap area, sealing it up tight and also replacing the rubber on the directional flap is a pleasant project and there is nothing like the soft "whump" of the flap snapping into place or the flaps moving smoothly from side to side.

I got NO air leaks now, and all the metal up there is rustfree and smooth gray! :D

Did you use the seam sealer like Everett said? I had that shit all over me trying to get it pressed into all of the seams.

Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:31 pm

that black putty stuff is dumm dumm as per an old german audi vw tech that turned me on to it I use it everyday for bolts

I stab a little piece of dumm dumm on the outer corners of the head of the bolt and stick the bolt onto my socket and that bolt will stay in the socket at any possible angle without falling out :wink:

Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:31 pm

Jerry J wrote: Major Woody wrote: This is a very satisfying small repair to do. Replacing all the seals in the flap area, sealing it up tight and also replacing the rubber on the directional flap is a pleasant project and there is nothing like the soft "whump" of the flap snapping into place or the flaps moving smoothly from side to side.

I got NO air leaks now, and all the metal up there is rustfree and smooth gray! :D

Did you use the seam sealer like Everett said? I had that shit all over me trying to get it pressed into all of the seams.

Yah sure, you betcha.
I actually used Vulkem polyurethane caulk, which I believe is the most tenacious gooey substance on earth. I put about an inch of it on the tip of my finger and applied it that way, little by little, after priming and painting. There was a little bit of a mess on me but everywhere else was fine.

When I pulled mine apart, the flap was stuck open because of a big ol wasp's nest and there was another one in the vent, preventing the directional flaps from moving much. The rubber on the flaps was all crusty and folded over and hard. Now everything just glides like butter.

Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:13 pm

Thread from days gone by. :) dan sent this to me, and i read it and went.... one more bump for 08!
I have to do this repair soon, so i quit freezing. :D

Sun Dec 21, 2008 2:24 pm

Is there a way to remove the mesh screens? as mine have 2 smallish holes in them and are all cacked with paint and shit, tryed cleaning them but to no real satisfaction.

Has anyone ever done this?
Thanks.
Eric.

Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:20 am

On my thread about the restoration of my 1959 Double Cab ( http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=545000 ) there is a pretty good how-to with lots of photos of how I did the resto of my DC overhead fresh air system using paint, fresh seam-sealer and new seal kits. Look around the middle of page 15 and page 18 for the latest sealing work on my overhead vent system.

Bill

Mon May 25, 2015 8:45 am

Old thread but it is a new day.
Since there are now seal kits for the fresh air flap we no longer have to use electrical tape. My old seal on the '67 single cab was completely gone. The new seal has a longer flap that goes on the "top" (near the roof) OR the bottom. Any ideas which side get the longer flap?
Bill I looked at your pictures but could not see this part.
Thanks!

Mon May 25, 2015 6:48 pm

OB Bus wrote: The new seal has a longer flap that goes on the "top" (near the roof) OR the bottom. Any ideas which side get the longer flap?

Can you post a picture of the seals or link to the kit?

Mon May 25, 2015 8:21 pm

OK will do. I bought the seal from Airhead. I looked at their add as well as everyone else selling the same part. No one had a decent and descriptive picture.
These pix are a bit hard to see. In both pictures the holes on the seal are lined up with the rivet holes on the metal flap.
In the first one there is an extra part of the seal showing at the top.

And if I rotate the seal 180 degrees the rubber seal is square on the plate.

Would having things all equal insure success? I just do not want to do the riveting twice.

Thanks!

Tue May 26, 2015 8:59 am

OB Bus wrote: Would having things all equal insure success?

I can't imagine this isn't the correct way: equal. Can you use masking tape and tape it then try dry fitting it? The other way it would whistle when closed at the bottom: yuck.

Tue May 26, 2015 8:59 pm

Equality it will be. It is logical in every way.

Thanks Barry!