TheSamba.com :: View topic - Canvas Convertible Top! What Product to use on Canvas?

Sun May 28, 2006 10:49 pm

Hello To all!! I need a good reliable cleaner to bring back the luster of the canvas on my convertible Top. The Classic is around the corner So any info Or Yes to this product NO To This One .--Would greatly be appreciated. In your Opinion What's the BEST cleaner to use? Thanks for the input Eric (VMR)

Mon May 29, 2006 6:14 am

There are several cleaners available at most auto parts stores.

We used to use Soft Scrub on some of our other verts with white or colored tops.

Mon May 29, 2006 8:29 am

I got this stuff off the internet called Raggtop cleaner,it came with a cleaner and top protector spray. It works really well,I used a soft scrub brush to work it in and then rinsed it off. Its amazing how much dirt comes out when you rinse it off. I've about used it all up,but I would bet simple green would work really well too,I plan to try simple green the next time I clean the top.

Mon May 29, 2006 8:50 pm

Thanks Guy's!! I like the Simple Green Idea-- The soft scrub as well. and. if what I purchased today doesn't work-- will get online and Order the Raggtop. went to a local auto part's store and found some Convertible top cleaner. Will see how it go's, either way-- anything better than what the condition is now! again thanks for the Input It's Greatly appreciated. Eric (VMR)

Tue May 30, 2006 2:17 am

Having seen what simple green did to my buddies under hood paint
there is no way that stuff is going anywhere near my car.
I've used car wash soap and a real soft brush I bought on line.
http://autopia-carcare.com/inf-cabrio.html
They also had a soap & a protective spray that I bought.
The protective spray directions tell you to cover all but the convertible top,
and is real clear about the fact that it will damage your paint, so I've been
to lazy to use it yet.

Tue May 30, 2006 1:33 pm

If you have Stayfast Canvas , you shouldn't use any detergents it will kill the top, pronto. Woolite with a soft brush is best.

Tue May 30, 2006 2:43 pm

I used this from Griot's Garage on my canvas top but I swear it just seems to be soap and water. Worked OK, not spectacular. The brush helped. Also works on vinyl upholstery.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.jsp?searchtext=convertible+top

Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:00 pm

I'm thinking I gave you bad advice on that simple green,stick with the raggtop cleaner.

Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:03 pm

I bought Maguires convertible top cleaner and also some canvas waterproof spray for the speedster and it did a great job.

Thu Jun 01, 2006 6:29 pm

Eric Outland wrote: Thanks Guy's!! I like the Simple Green Idea-- The soft scrub as well. and. if what I purchased today doesn't work-- will get online and Order the Raggtop. went to a local auto part's store and found some Convertible top cleaner. Will see how it go's, either way-- anything better than what the condition is now! again thanks for the Input It's Greatly appreciated. Eric (VMR)

Simple green and soft scrub??? AHHHH! Save some money and pour battery acid on it, same result just faster. The top won't handle that for very long. Clean it like your cleaning a nice jacket and you'll be in the right frame of mind. Raggtop is very good, Woolite is as good and much cheaper for cleaning a cloth top. You will want to treat it once a year to preserve it longer. Vinyl and cloth tops are 2 different animals. but both expensive to replace and respond negatively to harsh treament so treat them gently.

Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:29 am

What are you guys recommending to restore the canvas top's waterproofing abilities? I'm asking because I'm overdue. Thanks.

Fri Jun 09, 2006 3:26 pm

DeMinimis wrote: What are you guys recommending to restore the canvas top's waterproofing abilities? I'm asking because I'm overdue. Thanks.
good stuff.....
http://www.topoftheline.com/ragcleanprot.html

Sat Aug 12, 2006 12:30 am

Some experience here. I have a tan canvas top, great shape (not sure the fiber content, bought it with this top).

In any case, I've used dish soap as well as laundry detergent (with no bleaches in them at all, don't know about Borax as that has other chemicals in it). In any case, dish soap used strong in water with a good firm plastic bristle brush worked great. I don't dump soapy water on, but use enough to spread out and scrub down sections at a time (that way you're not soaking through anything.

Scrub equally in all directions (horizontal, vertical) to get out dirt without leaving patches behind. Rinse down, hand squeegee water off, scrub some more, rinse, squeegee (so there's no major amounts of water soaking in anywhere - you're just cleaning a surface and not soaking padding beneath).

For extra tough spots where rubber is possibly leaving spots (I use a black magic sealer on rubber and forgot about the canvas rubbing when top is stored back). You can put soap directly in small quantity on spot and scrub extra. I make sure that it's going to be good and hot or sunny to dry the top, never in damp conditions.

To waterproof, you can use various tent and canvas (even shoe and boot) waterproofers. Test the spray as I have found that some products tend to be a little tackier when sprayed which simply means they'll collect dirt a little faster but that's all. Haven't found any of them to discolor. I'm always careful to see that it can be used on fabrics and suede (since that can be delicate surface I use it as a comparison). Anything I use on my roof, I ensure would be equally safe for say, wool.

Use simple masking tape and large plastic sheets (like for painting) and tape off close to the top with no paint showing. Drape over all of car as any wind in the area while waterproofing can wander and you don't want to have to wash and wax it off. I try to tape onto paint and as close to fabric (even under the roll of piping so everything is equally protected). Also tape off your glass and rubber (don't know what the spray will do to break down rubber, play it safe... cleaning the glass is a pain, save yourself the work.)

Last time I had to waterproof my top, I did it during lunch in the covered parking (bottom floor away from other cars) so I didn't have to content with any wind, dust, etc. Normally the waterproofing stuff dries in 1-2 hours easy.

I usually give it 2 good even coats, again do it in sections so you don't skip parts. Also, put on extra coverage where the wind hits most as that'll be the harder hit areas in heavy rain while you're zipping down the road.

Hope that helps anyone searching in future. For waterproofing I normally use two cans (medium sized can about 6+ oz.) of tent and canvas protector (big 5 sports, etc.) or have used Meltonian water and stain protector (available at shoe repair stores, used about 3 of those cans).

The tent protector left a slightly tacky residue (sorry don't recall name) but still works fine, didn't discolor. Meltonian worked perfectly with no tackiness.

Sat Aug 12, 2006 12:34 am

I keep an eye on when canvas is absorbing water rapidly rather than beading at least a little. I tend to waterproof it at least once a year well before rainy season sets in.

Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:56 am

For those who do not know it or do not care, Woolite contains bleach. Dawn Dish Soap works very well.

Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:06 am

I use a little Ivory Snow soap and water and a soft mitt then rinse it real good. Don't use anything with bleach or that is very strong. I've had my canvas top for over 3 years and it still looks brand new.

Sat Aug 12, 2006 5:28 pm

For what it cost to put on a canvas top in both time and money, I would stick with products made specifically for the application.

"Raggtop" are the only products recommended by Haartz for cleaning or re-applying the water resistance chemical to their product. There may be other top cleaners that are basically the same, but I don't go with what I don't know. You may get a pass on the proper home brew for the cleaning but laundry detergents and dish soaps have degreasers. Detergents are just bad. It may have it looking good, but it's certainly taking life off the fabric. If you have an early model with wood bows you will also see what those do to wood. and spray adhesive. Later models will witness it around the rear window frame but that's further down the road than the impact to the material.

It's important that the protective spray contain UV protection in addition to the water resistance or the color will fade, thread will pop and it will crack much quicker. Not all (do any?) tent waterproofing agents have UV protection (it's spendy)and about 5 years down the road is when you will notice it. Especially dark colors. UV kills more tops than dirt, Soaps with detergents/degreasers or simply a caustic PH will kill a top even faster. If you want a home brew, Woolite for Dark Fabrics is very good ( no it doesn't have bleach, I've never checked if the standard Woolite does but I doubt it). It's mainly surfactant which is what the name brand fabric top cleaners use to help release dirt. Of course they also have other goodies.

One additional item to consider is the effect what your using has on butyl rubber which is the waterproof part of the top. Degreaser on rubber=bad and who knows what tent waterproofer does..i don't and I doubt the maker does since it's designed to go on canvas not rubber.

.

Sat Aug 12, 2006 9:20 pm

birddog1 wrote: For what it cost to put on a canvas top in both time and money, I would stick with products made specifically for the application.

"Raggtop" are the only products recommended by Haartz for cleaning or re-applying the water resistance chemical to their product. There may be other top cleaners that are basically the same, but I don't go with what I don't know. You may get a pass on the proper home brew for the cleaning but laundry detergents and dish soaps have degreasers. Detergents are just bad. It may have it looking good, but it's certainly taking life off the fabric. If you have an early model with wood bows you will also see what those do to wood. and spray adhesive. Later models will witness it around the rear window frame but that's further down the road than the impact to the material.

It's important that the protective spray contain UV protection in addition to the water resistance or the color will fade, thread will pop and it will crack much quicker. Not all (do any?) tent waterproofing agents have UV protection (it's spendy)and about 5 years down the road is when you will notice it. Especially dark colors. UV kills more tops than dirt, Soaps with detergents/degreasers or simply a caustic PH will kill a top even faster. If you want a home brew, Woolite for Dark Fabrics is very good ( no it doesn't have bleach, I've never checked if the standard Woolite does but I doubt it). It's mainly surfactant which is what the name brand fabric top cleaners use to help release dirt. Of course they also have other goodies.

One additional item to consider is the effect what your using has on butyl rubber which is the waterproof part of the top. Degreaser on rubber=bad and who knows what tent waterproofer does..i don't and I doubt the maker does since it's designed to go on canvas not rubber.

.

hmmm ..somebody took a class in convertible top cleaning :P All very good points though

.

Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:44 am

Has anyone used the 303 Aero products on the VW's? I was thinking this would be a good application for their products.

http://www.303warehouse.com/

They have a fabric top cleaner product. Does anyone know if this is safe for a Super Beetle? I have a white top, so I'll constantly be cleaning it, I figure.

I've used their vinyl protectant products for years and love them.

Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:34 pm

Sorry, I didn't realize I never gave the name of the product I used to waterproof the top.

It is called CampDry or TentDry and is produced by Kiwi (as in the shoe care folks). It comes in a spray can and just about one can will do a single layer on the top. I tend to do 4 layers (just to be safe) and seal it once a year before Winter rains and after a scrub down. Scroll down for the washing instructions and tape-off instructions to respray the top.

Last I found this product it was at a sporting goods store which since went out of biz. Might have to go to producer to find availability or call around to your sporting good stores (I kept checking the shoe sections to see if it was there to no avail).

This stuff works great (when sprayed on top it will make it a little darker as if fabric has been misted with water) but no significant change. Give it plenty of airflow to dry then do next layer.

Hope that helps canvas top folks.

PS. Be careful about using rubber preserver products on window rubber that will color. I stupidly used Meguiar's (sp?) "back to black" on the window rubber and ended up with black spots on top when I'd folded it back and stored it down for a while. Now, I put a plastic bag between the window rubber and top when folded to ensure I don't have to get the black out of the top when scrubbing. Ended up using some high grade alcohol to get the coloring out and not all successfully, wasn't going to take a chance on bleaching to the top and soaps weren't cutting.