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Fri Oct 28, 2016 12:43 pm

Nice design Sgellis! And cool to share all the detailed building plans =D>

Fri Oct 28, 2016 3:32 pm

Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.

Fri Oct 28, 2016 4:44 pm

Malokin Martin wrote: Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.

I can add it to the Archives - email it to me!

Sat Oct 29, 2016 1:25 am

Really nice. This design is perfect. The low profile dollies which can be moved to any of the flat angles are very cool.

When you rotate onto or off of the dollies, is there a way to stabilize or hold them in place?
That could be a delicate maneuver, especially if you are by yourself doing the rotating.

Also, did you add clamps to attach to the roof gutters? I would think that they would help stabilize things.

Sat Oct 29, 2016 4:09 am

j.pickens wrote: Really nice. This design is perfect. The low profile dollies which can be moved to any of the flat angles are very cool.

When you rotate onto or off of the dollies, is there a way to stabilize or hold them in place?
That could be a delicate maneuver, especially if you are by yourself doing the rotating.

Also, did you add clamps to attach to the roof gutters? I would think that they would help stabilize things.

Thanks!

I roll the bus up a little so the rollers will slide under part way. Let the bus back onto the roller and use my foot to push on the roller and pull on the frame to centre it. Easy once you get the hang of it. I always rotate from the rear frame. A stripped bus is not very heavy.

I didn't add anything to the drip rail. Front has lots of clearance, rear about 2". There is some bounce in the frame but not enough to hit the drip rail. Thought about adding some bracing to the inside of the loop to stop the flex but I don't notice it at all while working.

Sat Oct 29, 2016 8:30 am

EverettB wrote: Malokin Martin wrote: Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.

I can add it to the Archives - email it to me!

It's up:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/bus_rotisserie/VWBus_Rotisserie.pdf

I will add it to the first post in this thread as well

Sat Oct 29, 2016 9:19 am

sgellis wrote:

This is 100% pure excellence. Well done!

Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:59 pm

Could someone give me a bit of advice? We're about to take the plunge and remove the running gear.

1.) If we used 2.5 in. OD 0.105 thickness ROUND pipe for the rotisserie, are we loosing significant strength vs the same thickness SQUARE? (Same Half tipper version as the post directly above). Like should we be concerned with the round? My friend has a pile laying around he's willing to donate for free.

2.) if we're doing strictly the lower frame/flooring (underside only) would it be ok to use mild/low pressure sand? I know walnut is better, but it's bonkers more expensive.

Thanks in advance!

Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:13 pm

Malokin Martin wrote: Could someone give me a bit of advice? We're about to take the plunge and remove the running gear.

If we used 2.5 in. OD 0.105 thickness ROUND pipe for the rotisserie, are we loosing like significant strength vs the SQUARE? (Same Half tipper version as the post directly above). Like should we be concerned with the round? My friend has a pile laying around he's willing to donate for free.

Thanks in advance!

Should be fine. Just make sure the corrner are welded well. May be a bit bouncy (the one above is) but you can add a few braces to the inside if you like.

Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:47 pm

Agree. Your tubing will be fine. A little flexing is no problem. Once the running gear is off it will be very light. Walnut shells will not clean out rust on a home style blaster. Never use sand. Very toxic. I have used Diamond brand blast media. It is silica free. The large grit will clog a home blaster so get medium. Low pressure just takes longer and does not warp the panels.
Kurt

Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:01 pm

Thanks for the replies folks! Appreciate it!

Wed Jan 25, 2017 7:33 am

That is an excellent pdf of the tipper.

My only suggestion would be to make the very bottom section equal length to the uprights that attach to the frame. I know it makes it a bit harder to start the tip, but it makes it more stable when rolling.
Also, make the tipper pieces switchable from side to side, to give easier access for work on the passenger side rocker areas.

Gordo.

Wed Jan 25, 2017 9:25 am

flemcadiddlehopper wrote: That is an excellent pdf of the tipper.

My only suggestion would be to make the very bottom section equal length to the uprights that attach to the frame. I know it makes it a bit harder to start the tip, but it makes it more stable when rolling.
Also, make the tipper pieces switchable from side to side, to give easier access for work on the passenger side rocker areas.
Gordo.

The frames can be installed from either side. Notice the rear adaptor plates are bolted on so they stay on the bus when switching frame to other sides.

Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:24 pm

sgellis wrote: flemcadiddlehopper wrote: That is an excellent pdf of the tipper.

My only suggestion would be to make the very bottom section equal length to the uprights that attach to the frame. I know it makes it a bit harder to start the tip, but it makes it more stable when rolling.
Also, make the tipper pieces switchable from side to side, to give easier access for work on the passenger side rocker areas.
Gordo.

The frames can be installed from either side. Notice the rear adaptor plates are bolted on so they stay on the bus when switching frame to other sides.

So.....what's holding the bus while you switch the frame to the other side?

The plans I used from A Guy on Vancouver Island , the bus sits on a bedframe style section, while the tipper sides bolt to it, either side and the bus stays on the frame with wheels.
However, i like the side sections of your design as it allows the bus to go somewhat bottoms up. A support to the rain gutter would help support the bus while in that position.

gordo.

Fri Jan 27, 2017 7:22 pm

flemcadiddlehopper wrote: sgellis wrote: flemcadiddlehopper wrote: That is an excellent pdf of the tipper.

My only suggestion would be to make the very bottom section equal length to the uprights that attach to the frame. I know it makes it a bit harder to start the tip, but it makes it more stable when rolling.
Also, make the tipper pieces switchable from side to side, to give easier access for work on the passenger side rocker areas.
Gordo.

The frames can be installed from either side. Notice the rear adaptor plates are bolted on so they stay on the bus when switching frame to other sides.

So.....what's holding the bus while you switch the frame to the other side?

The plans I used from A Guy on Vancouver Island , the bus sits on a bedframe style section, while the tipper sides bolt to it, either side and the bus stays on the frame with wheels.
However, i like the side sections of your design as it allows the bus to go somewhat bottoms up. A support to the rain gutter would help support the bus while in that position.

gordo.

I see what you mean. Yes I have to support the bus while switching sides. I had thought of making the uprights so they could be bolted to eather side of a lower u shaped frame. Seemed easier to just to jack up the bus to switch sides once or twice during the restoration than to build a more complex system.

Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:35 am

glideking wrote: .... Once the running gear is off it will be very light. ....
Kurt

Do you know how much just the body itself weighs?

Chris

Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:58 am

I did not weigh it but I could lift each end by myself. It could not be much more than 600 pounds total.
Kurt

Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:23 pm

glideking wrote: I did not weigh it but I could lift each end by myself. It could not be much more than 600 pounds total.
Kurt

Was that before or after you replaced the missing metal (rust). :lol:

Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:19 pm

Getting my homemade rotisserie ready for the next bus project today. I used to just drag the rotisserie around on the floor but I am getting older and I would like to roll it outside. This is a way to roll the rotisserie around the garage without a full cart in the way. Wheels for each ring independent from each other. Four of the eight wheels have a brake. They were $20 at Horrible Fright and rated at 450 lb. 8 inch wheel are large enough to roll over all those severed bits of rusty bus parts. I put the casters outboard keeping the rings close to the floor so it is still low enough to roll it outside the garage door. Now I can sandblast outside and roll it back in at night. I will keep a much cleaner garage this way.

Kurt

Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:21 am

glideking wrote: Getting my homemade rotisserie ready for the next bus project today....

I like the sounds of that. I don't think I have seen your new build thread yet. tap.tap.tap... :)

Good time to trim the access off the rear adaptor plates. I found that area bad enough to work around.