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Sun Jan 07, 2007 6:55 pm

I used the Eastwood 3/8" "hole saw" type spotweld cutter. It worked pretty good for some 400 welds in both halves of this donor floor.

Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:37 pm

Try Blair spot weld cutter Snap on and most paint/body supply shops carry them. They are some of the finest ones made. Perri

Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:55 pm

I used this one, from Eastwood, and it barely got the rear apron done before I had to resort to using ordinary drill bits. The teeth are very brittle and break easily.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14686&itemType=PRODUCT

Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:14 am

How about this Eastwood bit? Good or junk also?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailm...uctID=1160

Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:11 pm

Quote: How about this Eastwood bit? Good or junk also?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailm...uctID=1160

I wasn't impressed. It didn't hold up very well.

Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:14 pm

JDGas wrote: How about this Eastwood bit? Good or junk also?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailm...uctID=1160
most i have heard dull quickly also they tend to wander. lately i mostly use a regular 3/8 drill with a 120 degree tip

Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:07 am

I have posted info in other threads on using TEK screws for drilling out spot welds... they work good for at least ten or more welds depending on the metal thickness. They are also cheap and have other uses around the shop.

Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:32 am

I'm disecting a frame head which is fairly heave gage. Started by drilling out the welds and it was fairly difficult. Just bought a Blair premium spot weld cutter (Rotabroach) and it cuts like butter. Knocked of ten welds in about 10 miniutes. Cost $50 for the arbor, 3 cutters and stick lube. Well worth it.

Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:52 pm

greenoval wrote: I'm disecting a frame head which is fairly heave gage. Started by drilling out the welds and it was fairly difficult. Just bought a Blair premium spot weld cutter (Rotabroach) and it cuts like butter. Knocked of ten welds in about 10 miniutes. Cost $50 for the arbor, 3 cutters and stick lube. Well worth it.

OMG you guys are pumping a bunch of money into all these fancy tools. I removed half the front end of my bug with one of these:

It's a B&D Bullet bit and does the same thing as a spot-weld cutter but they cost like four bucks, and I only had to buy one...and it's still good.

OTOH...If I had the $$$ to spend on the tools...well…

Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:52 am

duginabug wrote: greenoval wrote: I'm disecting a frame head which is fairly heave gage. Started by drilling out the welds and it was fairly difficult. Just bought a Blair premium spot weld cutter (Rotabroach) and it cuts like butter. Knocked of ten welds in about 10 miniutes. Cost $50 for the arbor, 3 cutters and stick lube. Well worth it.

OMG you guys are pumping a bunch of money into all these fancy tools. I removed half the front end of my bug with one of these:

It's a B&D Bullet bit and does the same thing as a spot-weld cutter but they cost like four bucks, and I only had to buy one...and it's still good.

OTOH...If I had the $$$ to spend on the tools...well…
Nice tip on the Black & Decker Bullet bits. I bought a bunch of them from someone on eBay and they work great!

Sun May 18, 2008 10:49 am

Used an ordinary drill bit... I agree with the guys in the past few posts about wasting money on specialized equipment. The only way it is justified is if you plan on doing a heck of a lot more spot weld removal that a few cars.

Thu May 22, 2008 9:52 pm

duginabug wrote: greenoval wrote: I'm disecting a frame head which is fairly heave gage. Started by drilling out the welds and it was fairly difficult. Just bought a Blair premium spot weld cutter (Rotabroach) and it cuts like butter. Knocked of ten welds in about 10 miniutes. Cost $50 for the arbor, 3 cutters and stick lube. Well worth it.

OMG you guys are pumping a bunch of money into all these fancy tools. I removed half the front end of my bug with one of these:

It's a B&D Bullet bit and does the same thing as a spot-weld cutter but they cost like four bucks, and I only had to buy one...and it's still good.

OTOH...If I had the $$$ to spend on the tools...well…

What size bit works best?

Sat May 24, 2008 10:24 am

1/4 for smaller welds.
5/16 for bigger.

I would start drilling and as soon as the pilot point broke through I would slow to medium speed or so. You will know when it breaks the first layer of metal as it kinda "pops" through.

you'll see what I mean after you do it.

Tue May 27, 2008 6:53 am

It is best to use a center punch on the spot weld before drilling to prevent the bit from walking. I have many examples of drilling spot welds in my Gallery.

Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:42 pm

I bought one of the bullet shaped bits from HD last week, made by Kobalt. It worked better than any spot weld cutter that I have tried in the past. It stayed were I put it and made nice cuts. It did start to get dull however after about 20 spot welds. At 5 bucks each though I can buy 4 of them for the same price as the cheap spot weld cutters.

Tue Aug 05, 2008 7:21 am

keifernet wrote:

I have posted info in other threads on using TEK screws for drilling out spot welds... they work good for at least ten or more welds depending on the metal thickness. They are also cheap and have other uses around the shop.

Just thought I'd add my 2cents. I thought this was a great idea. For $20 I got a box of a hundred of the largest ones I could find at the local "Home Despot". (#14 x 1") And I must say they worked awesome. Did one whole pan half with about 4 or 5. Easily saved me alot of aggrevation using the el cheapo spot weld cutter I bought for the purpose. Never even made it past the first weld with purpose made tool before it learned how to fly across the garage. (this project was supposed to help with my patience problems!)

Anyways great idea, worked perfectly, and likely saved me from spending a ton of money on cutters or drill bits. (and no I don't own a bit sharpener and I was never really good a sharpening them on the grinding wheel)

Colin

Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:57 am

Quote: Never even made it past the first weld with purpose made tool before it learned how to fly across the garage.

LMBO

Quote: I was never really good a sharpening them on the grinding wheel)

Colin

I have tried a few times and have come to the conclusion that it takes a special kind of talent to do it right. It is NOT easy.

Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:36 pm

duginabug wrote: Quote: Never even made it past the first weld with purpose made tool before it learned how to fly across the garage.

LMBO

Quote: I was never really good a sharpening them on the grinding wheel)

Colin

I have tried a few times and have come to the conclusion that it takes a special kind of talent to do it right. It is NOT easy.

This thing works great.......as good or better than new, when used properly

http://www.drilldoctor.com/

Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:53 pm

Yeah, I know. I don't know what it is though, for some reason I could never bring myself to spend the money to get one. I guess it always seemed easier to ask for a new set of drill bits under the ole Xmas tree whenever I found too many that were dull. Not sure how many sets I have now... Or maybe I just thought I'd eventually remember which way to twist the bit when sharpening on the grinder and sharpen them all.

Apparently there is one in the shop at work. If I can ever find it and remember to bring all my dull ones in maybe I can save them, only to wreck them another day...

P.S. remember "it's always the tools fault...."

Colin

Wed Aug 13, 2008 6:58 am

Glad you tried and had success with the TEK type self tapping screws... Some think I am crazy when I suggest them but they work really well on the VW small spot welds on the thin metal these cars are made of.

*The cheaper brands at the big box store are not as good as ones you get from a "real nut/bolt/hardware or metal building supplier... that 's the thing to watch out for is GET GOOD ONES.

I was replacing the front header/core support on a Mercedes 300E that had been in a front ender

I had to drill out about 50 + BIG FAT spot welds all around the damn thing(s) both on the donor clip and the car. I was using the TEK screws but the spot welds needed to be hogged out to 1/2" :shock: So I had been using the TEK for starter hole and then hitting again with a drill... it was taking WAY TOO LONG out in 100 degree heat. So... I found some "Uni-bit" deal like this at the local flaps for 9 bucks. Suckers work very well...