TheSamba.com :: View topic - Comparing stock Solex carbs to each other, and to the H30/31

Wed Aug 08, 2018 12:37 pm

"49 State" means it was sold in all US states except California.

Wed Aug 08, 2018 12:38 pm

spud72uk wrote: I have a 34-PICT 3 427-1 which according to the start of the thread is for the 49State which I assume is 49th State - Alaska.

A "49 State" carb is one that meets the emissions setup for all US states other than California. One that meets California requirements would be refered to as California compliant or "50 State".

Quote: I have problems with the carb pulling 16 degrees of advance from the vacuum after it has been revved from Idle and returns to idle. When the car is started there is no vacuum advance as you would expect, just when you rev it and it returns to idle. When you disconnect the vacuum pipe the advance goes...
It sounds like you might need to give the carb a good thorough cleaning.

Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:14 pm

Actually 49 state refers to the 50 states w/the exception of California. California had it's own stricter emissions standards apart from the other "49" states. So the carbs and attachments differed slightly! :D

Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:22 pm

Thanks everyone for the info re 49 state much appreciated, does any one has a picture of one of these carbs with 427-1 on the flange as I think I am missing a lot of the emission bits - thanks again

Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:24 pm

mukluk wrote: spud72uk wrote: I have a 34-PICT 3 427-1 which according to the start of the thread is for the 49State which I assume is 49th State - Alaska.

A "49 State" carb is one that meets the emissions setup for all US states other than California. One that meets California requirements would be refered to as California compliant or "50 State".

Quote: I have problems with the carb pulling 16 degrees of advance from the vacuum after it has been revved from Idle and returns to idle. When the car is started there is no vacuum advance as you would expect, just when you rev it and it returns to idle. When you disconnect the vacuum pipe the advance goes...
It sounds like you might need to give the carb a good thorough cleaning.
It has been rebuilt recent, had it cleaned ultrasonically today and still exactly the same result. Really strange as you can appreciate it really messes with the timing.

Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:25 pm

Q-Dog wrote: "49 State" means it was sold in all US states except California.
thanks

Tue Apr 02, 2019 12:58 pm

Quick question... I have a carb stamped 325-2 which makes it a 1972 34 PICT 3 based on the table in page 1. Is it ok to use that with the matching *205AN distributor on my 1974 Beetle or would that cause issues?

Tue Apr 02, 2019 3:30 pm

It doesn't matter what year the engine or car itself it is in/on. 1600DP, on such, yes that combination is fine.

Now... the age old question is: Does the retard side of the vacuum canister on this distributor still function? This is such a common question, because so many of them fail there.

Tue Apr 02, 2019 3:32 pm

Thanks for the feedback. Is there a way to check the retard side of the canister. Suck on it and see if it holds, maybe? I don't have the distributor yet...

Tue Apr 02, 2019 4:27 pm

Yeppers, that's about it - put a hose on the retard side, apply suction to it, watch that the breaker plate moves accordingly, then pinch off the hose and see if it holds.

Tue Apr 02, 2019 7:27 pm

wcfvw69 wrote: I think this should be a sticky!!

Uh, yeah.

Great work!

Tue Apr 02, 2019 9:03 pm

e-square12 wrote: Quick question... I have a carb stamped 325-2 which makes it a 1972 34 PICT 3 based on the table in page 1. Is it ok to use that with the matching 305AN distributor on my 1974 Beetle or would that cause issues?

I think you meant 113905205AN DVDA distributor. There were two basic versions of the German Solex 34-3 carbs. The DVDA version (most common) and the SVDA version in 1974.

The DVDA's distributors will work with any of the DVDA German Solex 34-3 carbs.

When I check vacuum canisters, i use a hand vacuum pump with gauge. I pump them up to 300mm hg and insure they do not leak down. If they do, they're done. The suck and hold test just doesn't work with any accuracy.

Tue Apr 02, 2019 9:52 pm

You are right; meant to type 205AN. Just edited my comment for future reference.

Do you test both ends on the DVDA with the pump?

Wed Apr 03, 2019 4:44 am

e-square12 wrote: You are right; meant to type 205AN. Just edited my comment for future reference.

Do you test both ends on the DVDA with the pump?

Correct. :wink:

Tue Aug 18, 2020 12:39 pm

Just found this thread, what a wealth of good info. Thank you for keeping at it all of these years!

Thu Nov 26, 2020 5:42 am

I've often wondered what exactly are the differences across the various 34PICT3 flange numbers/models. Others seem to have similar questions. So I thought I'd consolidate what I've read in this thread and observed myself.

The variables seem to be:

1. Differences in sizes of various removable jets (these can be replaced to match)

2. Differences in sizes of the two air-bleed drillings (if drillings can be enlarged if needed)

3. Power jet size (most seem to be 100, bus ones seem to be 95 and perhaps they can be drilled to 100)

4. Configuration of throttle lever - with/without provision for damper, with/without provision for throttle delay mechanism (these don't really matter for interchange unless you want to retain damper or delay and the carb you are considering does not have them)

5. Configuration of accelerator pump linkage - generator vs. alternator (alternator type will fit all, generator type will require spacer or grinding alternator for clearance)

6. Number/location of vacuum ports (all have advance port, not all have the other 2)

7. Number (and size?) of advance drillings

8. Throttle plate hole size. Most (all?) DVDA ones had the larger holes. Did the SVDA ones have smaller holes? I have seen Bocars with smaller holes, but I'm not considering Bocars in this discussion. (the smaller holes can be made larger by drilling and the larger ones reduced with a rivet I believe)

Any I've missed?

Of these variables, which ones are most relevant for matching with a given distributor? Is #7 the most critical from that perspective? Of course, if you want to use the DVDA retard function, then #6 also becomes important.

Fri Nov 27, 2020 1:03 pm

For most stock applications would the brosol h30/31 pic performance improve simply by adding the biggest vacuum advancing cannister to the stock Bosch 034 style distributor or is it just the airflow through the carb throat that needs to be modified?

Fri Nov 27, 2020 2:24 pm

No need. Just use the angled port on the flange of the carb as mentioned previously.

Thu Oct 07, 2021 9:37 am

tb03830 wrote:
This is a great post. I had mine on "A" I placed it on "B" and most of the Hesitation went away. I say most. "B" had a strong Vacuum. So you are saying "D" is stronger than "B"? I put my finger on it and got little or was a I mistaken about "D". I will test "D" for strong vacuum as soon as the throttle is slightly opened. Thanks for this.

The vacuum on B is strong but I think is not OK for the advance. If the vacuum advance should be always at max, the vacuum advance has no function, the same result could be obtained with a fixed rotagion of the distributor.

The B port produces ALWAYS a good vacuum because its purpose is to provide constant vacuum to the air filter thermostatic control; it has to work at all conditions.

The D port, in my case, was the best; no vacuum at idle and a variable vacuum during normal rpms. Those engines work well when advance is minimum at idle and at full load, maximum at intermediate conditions.

Sun Jun 26, 2022 1:10 pm

Alright, I went through the bulk of this post but figured I would just ask in case I missed it.

I have a 1200cc 40HP with a Solex 28 and an Empi 009 installed by PO. I have had some running issues with it.

I found a VW 113-905-205M (Bosch ZV/PAU 4R3) distributor with the vacuum canister that I purchased. All the info I found said a 4R1-4R6 would work. Does that seem correct.

The other thing I am considering is a rebuilt Solex 30/31 or a Brosol H30/31.

Does it seem like I’m on the right track?