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Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:41 pm

Hello, Does anyone know what the main differences are between F.I. Motors and Carb motors? I have a FI motor I pulled out of a 75 Beetle and I am in the process of rebuilding a 67 Carb motor to put in my 75 bug. Is there any thing I can add or remove/replace to the FI motor to make it run off a carb. It's a perfectly good motor and I hate to get rid of it but if it's a royal pain then I will just scrap it. Please let me know if you can help me out thanks. Josh

Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:49 pm

What was wrong with the FI motor?

Thu Aug 24, 2006 4:24 pm

Oh man. Here we go......I can see the sides massing.
old vs. new testament.
Moses vs. Jesus
Jew vs. Greek
Carb vs. Injection

Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:51 pm

Quote: George Evans
PostPosted: Today, 3:24 pm Post subject:
Oh man. Here we go......I can see the sides massing.
old vs. new testament.
Moses vs. Jesus
Jew vs. Greek
Carb vs. Injection

nothing like a good fire starter :roll:

*flight of the valkeries plays*

*slashes sword down on "heathen" carb beleivers

FI isnt all that complicated, just it can be expensive and time consuming for beginners. im in the process of peicing together the FI for my sqback, but in the end, it will work better than carbs.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:26 pm

i side carbs all the way, my buddy will argue fi all the way, you will see the war break out.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:31 pm

well we mind as well get the whole war in one thread....

synth oil is crap and a waste of money...dino is the way to go :lol:

.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:17 pm

FI is the light and the way to fule economy and power salvation. So it is said and so it is for now and always... till something better comes along.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:46 pm

The F/I engine has no provision for a fuel pump so you'll have to run a low pressure electronic pump. If you install 71-74 cylinder head tin, intake, carb & exhaust with the electronic pump it will work fine. You'll also need a generator or alternator stand as it is intregal with the F/I's intake and seperate on a carb engine. The F/I's 1600cc engine actually uses 40hp / 1300cc smaller valves but it will run fine.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:49 pm

There a very good reason every new car sold today has fuel injection, and these are the same reasons you should keep yours. Better running engine, better mileage and lower emissions. The old VW fuel injection systems are easy to maintain and, contrary to popular belief, are very, very reliable. Stick with the F.I.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
61 Bus, 71 Eriba Puck, 76 Standard Beetle (Fuel Injected), 76 Porsche 911S (Fuel Injected), 81 Vanagon (Fuel Injected), 84 Porsche 928 (Fuel Injected), 2000 Beetle (Fuel Injected)

Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:53 pm

61 BUS wrote: The old VW fuel injection systems are easy to maintain and, contrary to popular belief, are very, very reliable. Stick with the F.I.

The key word is "maintain", yes it's very reliable, BUT,,,,, you need to include the stock injection system in your regular maintenance routine. Or whatever fuel injecton system you're using.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:55 pm

BUGGED11111
well we mind as well get the whole war in one thread....

synth oil is crap and a waste of money...dino is the way to go

And how about: Super vs Original Beetle! That's always a polarizer!

Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:13 pm

The main differences are noted in each section
Carb to Fuel injection conversion in a '75 to 79 Beetle or Super.

Fuel lines: FI has 2, carb has one, and the id of the lines are also different.
Cap the return line that exits on the passenger frame horn,
Cap the return from the tank to the tunnel, at both the tank end, and tunnel end.
Remove the high pressure pump, and replace with low pressure pump.*
Put a high quality fuel filter before the pump.

* If you are running a mechanical fuel pump you don't need a electric pump, just the filter.
'75 to 79 original FI blocks DO NOT have fuel pump holes or studs for fuel pump installation.

Electrical: FI has 200,000 wires in the engine compartment (not really but you get a whole EFI harness)
If your running a electrical fuel pump, than you need to wire in a mercury switch to shut off the fuel pump in case of a rollover.
You also need to get the pump circuit on a relay that is only closed (powered) when the engine is turning over.

Tins:
'75 to 79 cylinder tins are shaped diffent from the rest, and you have to use them because they match the shape of the body.
These tins DO NOT have holes for heat risers assemblies, you get to cut & fit, or just run dual carbs & forget heat risers.
I suppose you could just cut the heat riser tubs off the manifold, but expect carb icing for your effort.

Heater Boxes:
Either 60-74 or 75 to 79 will work, the 75-79 exhaust system is a power robbing mess,
I would go with 60-74 heater boxes, header, and quietpack.
AS far as exhaust systems go CUT THE SYSTEM to fit the car, NOT THE CAR to fit the system.

Carbs:
I would run dual carbs, with doing this much work, you should get a increase in power.

Distributor:
Match it to the carbs, remember the stock FI dizzy retards the motor at idle & advances just like normal.
If your running anything but FI or a 34 pict you are going to have problems with a '75 to 79 stock dizzy.

Motor:
THERE IS NO POINT IN DOING THIS WORK UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO BUILD A BIG MOTOR.
Stock FI running well makes 48 hp, stock 67 to 74 motors made 50 to 53 hp.
Do you really want to do al this work and only get 5hp advantage.

Clutch:
Remember that 71-79 throwout bearing set up is different than the 70 & earlier set-up

Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:22 pm

THE WAR IS ON :twisted:

standards are WAYY better than supers.

wiring is much simpler, and the body and drivetrain and suspension is easier to work with without special tools or a lift.

i agree with the skull guy, dino oil is the best. synthetics mickey with ur motor.

Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:44 pm

dino, carburated, standard, lol. :twisted:

Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:20 pm

oh no here we go :lol:

come on they are ALL beetles, heck 90% of the world cant tell them apart

FI is great, my friend has a 1776, 044 heads, 110 cam running a modified STOCK FI system, using bus injectors, high pressure pump and bored out intake manifold system, the car runs awesome!, a llittle more maintanace but it is the only one i have ever seen,
but for me it is webers all the way

oh and dino too

Thu Aug 24, 2006 11:28 pm

PARTY TIME:

FI: crap not worth the extra work or money to maintain rip it out

synth oil: waste of money

oil filter: waste of money -change your damn oil

Best oil: Rotella T 15-45 dino

best car: Super if you drive it, Oval if you don't. Standard is for people who can't decide what to do

auto-stick=junk for people in Cali who spend their day in a traffic jam

pleae lock the thread so I get the last word

. :P :P :P :wink: :twisted:

Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:34 am

Quote:
pleae lock the thread so I get the last word

NEVERRRRR

:twisted:

Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:47 am

I read quick, I thought you were putting the F/I engine in the '67. Clearer heads prevailed.

Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:49 am

Yes I agree the FI is question. Hey, seen as you're now junking your FI stuff i'll be happy to come pick it up.

Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:41 am

OK, I'm going to have the last word:

Paper or Plastic?????????????????????????????