busdaddy |
Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:18 pm |
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Tom Powell wrote: I've been reading this post and am puzzled by this statement.
"... OG wires ... and the tin seal had an outer lip that went in like a grommet instead of just sitting on top and relying on friction to keep it in place."
Aftermarket wire sets do not have a grommet type seal and I thought that those aftermarket seals were supposed to be pushed inside the tin and then pulled back against the tin to make the seal. The slight air pressure in the cooling tin would make the seal tight rather than cause blowby if the seal was outside the tin and only held in place by friction.
Am I thinking too hard?
No, that is a valid solution, but keeping them from dropping in is a challenge as they age, maybe a small ty-rap under them to keep them in place would help.
Aloha
tp |
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nikolaus |
Fri Jan 22, 2010 10:55 am |
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My 69 autostick type 1 had 7mm Bosch Silicon wires on them which looked OK. Since most of my ignition was 40 years old, I switched out the plugs, original coil, wires, and installed a Pertronix Ignitor. I did these in separate steps and had to drive to work between each.
One of the older Bosch wires on the left had a ripped jacked from the spark plug wire clip on the fan shroud. There was no arcing though.
I've also been told that on a VW if you can bend them without cracking or getting shocked, you're good to go. They're not that sensitive with such a small spark gap.
I went cheap and bought a set of yellow Empi silicone 7mm copper wires. The coil wire was annoyingly long and why did I regret the yellow since my engine is hardly clean.
My Bosch plugs had the rubber disks that just flap over the holes. I don't think this was a problem but I'm not thrilled about hot air blowing into the upper half of the engine. The Empi wires had the grommet style ends.
Since my autostick servo gets in the way, they took a little effort to seal in to the cylinder tin but it actually took me less than 15 seconds per plug to seal with one hand. Something about it was very satisfying.
I did notice a difference in power and starting. Very slight improvement from the worn parts. Replacing the spark plugs made the most improvement since the gap had worn to .035 inches.
I don't listen to AM radio or have fuel injection so I'll be sticking with copper wires from now on. Plus at $15 a set it's just another excuse for me to drive over to Vee Dub Parts Unlimited.
Don't waste your money on anything else unless you run fuel injection, a CDI or MSD (or love AM radio). Then you'll need 8mm+ to stop the arcing or something else to suppress the EMI.
So laugh all you want at my choice of Empi wires but IMO they're better than the Bosch ones since they have the grommet seal AND they saved me enough money to pay for a new Bosch cap or rotor.
Nikolaus |
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77westy |
Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:56 pm |
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I just got a set of wires from Bus Depot.
part # 021998031A
"The best available, from OE Supplier to VW of America. Recommended over the Bosch, which is now Mexican made. Features the correct OE connectors and visibly better build quality."
They look pretty good to me (my existing wires are horrid).
The black 1/3 connectors have no name on them.
The 2/4 connectors have Bremi/Germany on the end.
Prenco?
The wires:
Just thought I'd provide an update. I know I thought about getting the Bosch ones from BD but got these instead based on their description. |
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Tuna Tim |
Sat Jul 17, 2010 2:30 pm |
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Has anyone successfully removed/bypassed the resistor in the Bosch (09001) spark plug cap? |
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RatCamper |
Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:48 pm |
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I'm using special made Magnecor leads. A little pricey at $88 but they carry the spark like a champ.
I chose to go with stainless inductive for a few reasons.
They use the nub on the plug, not the thread.
They are inductive stainless. Being inductive they can't induce crosstalk between leads or other wires. I don't like the thought of HT transients going through a 12v wire if something happens to drift.
They can cope with bigger sparks without issue. i want to upgrade to electronic ignition one day but it means I need another coil.
They are good quality.
To be honest I think I need to downgrade my ignition system a little. It works too well. I haven't seen any signs of overheating but it may end up eating a condenser or points.
I like things to work well with good parts, but my ignition system may be a little over-driven. |
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phorce1 |
Tue Nov 16, 2010 12:08 pm |
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Has anyone had a hands on look at these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-52083/
I'm slowly grabbing the parts for a CDI install but I'm a little twitchy about spending near $100 on wires from MSD or one of the others. I'd like to go for the less expensive set but worry that they may be less expensive because they are prone to inductive crosstalk.
I have an MSD 7AL-2 sitting on the shelf. I need wires and a new coil.
G2 |
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VWest77 |
Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:53 pm |
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Have a quick question about resistance. I have a new set of "copper core" plug wires. One broke... so I have an old wire off another engine...
The copper wires read when switched to: RX1K = about 3
This other wire reads: RX1k = about 15
can I use this one wire just to get me by for one short trip?
Thanks. |
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Wildthings |
Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:49 pm |
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VWest77 wrote: Have a quick question about resistance. I have a new set of "copper core" plug wires. One broke... so I have an old wire off another engine...
The copper wires read when switched to: RX1K = about 3
This other wire reads: RX1k = about 15
can I use this one wire just to get me by for one short trip?
Thanks.
15K Ohms sounds high to me, but it might be okay. How did a copper core wire break? They don't break very readily, unless you are just talking about the connector on the plug end of the wire. |
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VWest77 |
Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:19 am |
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Yea it was just the connector that broke...
Thanks! |
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dan macmillan |
Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:43 am |
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On copper core /stranded wire type wires with the screw in connectors {Stock VW parts} it is the bakelite spark plug end [the connector]that has the resister built into it. The wire used to make stock wires has 0 ohms resistance.
The extra resistance will not hurt anything. It will just make the coil put out a bit more energy when firing that cylinder. |
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kkjellquist |
Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:07 am |
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Looking for a new set and wondering if anyone has thoughts on the best current options;
BD saying this is the best current option;
http://www.busdepot.com/021998031a
Saw others mention NGK over current Bosch all day. |
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wcfvw69 |
Fri Mar 20, 2015 2:00 pm |
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kkjellquist wrote: Looking for a new set and wondering if anyone has thoughts on the best current options;
BD saying this is the best current option;
http://www.busdepot.com/021998031a
Saw others mention NGK over current Bosch all day.
Those do look good and the price is right in line with the Bosch wire sets I've been buying locally. Personally, I've not had any problems with the Bosch sets. I'm running a new set on my type 1 engine bus that are less than a month old. |
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