TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: Who's got a wood floor? Page: Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 11, 12, 13  Next
1621 Tue May 13, 2008 3:31 pm

Just completed my cork floor over sound deadener project. I also went from the rail mounted middle seat to a rear facing jump seat at the same time. I added several photos from along the way in the gallery. Anyhow, went from this:



To this:



dixoncj Tue May 13, 2008 8:59 pm

1621 - how the heck did you do that jumpseat??? I cant' find a rear facing tan jumpseat to save my life.
CD

1621 Tue May 13, 2008 10:28 pm

I had the seat already, it's the same one in the previous picture. Then I followed Brent Weide's instructions on his website for switching seats in the jumpseat position: http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

It's really simple as long as you have a donor seat and the jump seat bracket. The hard part was welding in the "feet". That's only because I don't weld. My buddy did the welding and cutting in about 30 minutes once I showed him the set-up. Really a rather simple process.

kabuki Wed May 21, 2008 8:55 pm

good thing you've got a buddy. I'll bet your buddy would like some stained shingles ;)

Jamos Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:02 pm

I'm about to put in either some laminate or bamboo in my '86 weekender. I have the rear-facing jumpseat with the storage box, behind the driver's seat.

I've got most everything removed except the floor brackets for the Z-bed and the linoleum floor. What I'm most unsure of is how to locate, mark and cut the holes for the jumpseat mounting points. There are four holes and I'm just not sure how to get the exact spot once the new floor goes down.

Maybe it will become obvious once I really get going, but if anyone's got some tips, that would be great.

1621 Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:09 am

Jamos wrote: I'm about to put in either some laminate or bamboo in my '86 weekender. I have the rear-facing jumpseat with the storage box, behind the driver's seat.

I've got most everything removed except the floor brackets for the Z-bed and the linoleum floor. What I'm most unsure of is how to locate, mark and cut the holes for the jumpseat mounting points. There are four holes and I'm just not sure how to get the exact spot once the new floor goes down.

Maybe it will become obvious once I really get going, but if anyone's got some tips, that would be great.

Just take some detailed measurements and/or create a cardboard template.

STEPHENLAY Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:07 am

I have the same original set up and I am about to put in cork floor as well. How do you like it??? I may covert my middle seat to a jump seat as well. I really like that. One reason I like the seat in the middle however is that I slide it toward that back when the bed is down and it acutally makes the bed longer :) It is a tad lower but it has worked well.

I just read loooked at all the pics. I think I am going to do this. Did you use hinges for your 1/4 stock? So for holes and welding did you just test fit it and go from there? did you have to tap the holes in the battery box or nuts from inside.

Any other thoughts?

1621 wrote: Just completed my cork floor over sound deadener project. I also went from the rail mounted middle seat to a rear facing jump seat at the same time. I added several photos from along the way in the gallery. Anyhow, went from this:



To this:



BIGChef Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:15 pm

how durable is the cork?
Sand, dogs....KIDS :shock:

1621 Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:19 am

BIGChef wrote: how durable is the cork?
Sand, dogs....KIDS :shock:

I've got most of the above. Three boys under seven with serious rock, stick, insect, and flotsam collecting habits have not marred the finish yet. I've found it to be highly durable, though I was suspect when I first started looking at it. I think because it's essentially a dense closed-cell layer, it's not going to scratch the same way a hardwood might.

Living in the PNW the water being tracked in I thought could be an issue. Nothing but good reports here as well. Though in fact, I do keep a rubber backed jute door mat just inside the slider to prevent the transferring of mud and water to the rest of the van. Now, if I could train the kids to step on that first and not the seats. :roll:

STEPHENLAY wrote:
I just read loooked at all the pics. I think I am going to do this. Did you use hinges for your 1/4 stock? So for holes and welding did you just test fit it and go from there? did you have to tap the holes in the battery box or nuts from inside.

I didn't use any hinges. The 1/4" stock was something my friend had left over from a different project of his. He did chamfer the sides of the plates to allow them to fit snugly into the ridges of the floor. The holes you see were in case I wanted to bolt them through the floor. I didn't think it was necessary, so they're still there unused. And yes, there are two holes going into the battery box, and two that end up in the wheel well behind the gas filler tube.

fairweather Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:33 am

Quote: how durable is the cork?
Sand, dogs....KIDS Shocked

The durability of cork is dependent on the finish you apply. I have had this installed in several houses and the finish that comes with it (Duro Design) is a catalyzed water based poly. Every customer I've installed this for has been really impressed, I was a skeptic at first but I put it in my bedroom and kitchen and have to agree, if you use the right finish it will last a very long time. The catalyzed stuff is way better than not whether it is water based or nasty lacquer. You could easily get 6 coats on in a day.

tozovr Tue Apr 20, 2010 5:44 am

allsierra123 wrote: Here are my wood floors.





I used plywood as a subfloor.

Bump for this topic...I now have wood and need to put it in...the van.

Allsierra123, can I see a pic of yours with the sat out but the rail in? Do the middle seat rails rest on the wood?

Anyone else do something similar?

Thanks!

RJ

Zero419 Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:16 am

no, but I did put in wood a few weeks ago.
picked up some tongue and groove fake stuff for 25 bucks.
took 25 min. to install.
looks great.

TopBud Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:22 am

Allsierra
How did you attach the middle seat with the wood there. I want to do the same set up, sometimes I have the seat in, sometimes I don't. Thanks

Keith Kiernicki Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:47 am

I found this stuff at IKEA. It is just like pergo. Only problem we have with the laminate is that it is really slippery with snowy feet.

krusovice Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:49 am

Keith Kiernicki wrote: I found this stuff at IKEA. It is just like pergo. Only problem we have with the laminate is that it is really slippery with snowy feet.

What is it? It looks like carpet mat.

akyrie Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:57 am







As you can see the previous owner had cut out the cd player. This is a piece of cherry wood that I cut out the cd player to fit snuggly, then glued it to the dashboard for a nice fixer. Also note the sink faucet shifter.

I put in ten inch wide douglas fir for flooring in the back, it was glued to the sub flooring then screwed and plugged. looks good, just the heat from the back seems to open the gaps in the floor a little bit, but no problems. I ended up finishing by putting trim around the whole floor and some facia on the side here by the door. End result is fabulous. Now if I can keep the people here in Ohio from hitting her I would be happy, she seems to be a magnet lately for people running into her.

Keith Kiernicki Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:08 am

krusovice wrote: Keith Kiernicki wrote: I found this stuff at IKEA. It is just like pergo. Only problem we have with the laminate is that it is really slippery with snowy feet.

What is it? It looks like carpet mat.

Ah the speckled stuff underneath is the laminate from IKEA and for the winter we installed the carpet mat.

Silence262 Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:44 am

I have an 87 GL and I hate the carpeting. I had considered finding a rubber mat, but I have also thought Pergo would be nice. I am on the fence whether to abandon the middle seat (I had a Syncro with jumps, should have pirated them before I sold it.)
So here's the dumb question:
What holds the wood to the metal floor?

randywebb Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:49 am

"I put in ten inch wide douglas fir for flooring in the back.."

Exactly - if you want wood, why not use REAL wood.

A soft wood like Doug. Fir will scratch & dent easily tho.

I'd bet one could scrounge up some old hardwood from people pulling the floors out of a house.

tozovr Sat Apr 24, 2010 12:07 pm

A bunch of great photos of finished projects but no real how to.

I'll chronicle my setup when I do it.


Thinking of the fake stuff because it's cheap and bullet proof.



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group