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MootPoint Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:57 pm

tozovr wrote:
Thinking of the fake stuff because it's cheap and bullet proof.
It's not. It will scratch (deeply) if you, say, drag a cooler out of the van if a stone that fell out of your shoe makes it's way under the cooler. You will want to be fairly judicious about keeping the floor clean once you install a Pergo-like floor. All it really is is a photograph and photographs will scratch.

Silence262 wrote:
What holds the wood to the metal floor?
Absolutely nothing. The Pergo-like floor is "floating" with no glue (in my case, almost none). The ends are blocked by the recessed floor, the inside long side is blocked by the side of the van or the kitchen cabinets. The side by the door is either blocked by either the metal trim or, in my case, a piece of Pergo-ish quarter-round that is, in fact, glued in place. Other than that, no glue at all.

Mine's been in for almost three years now and has been trouble-free.

Silence262 Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:29 pm

I think I am going to try it with some cheap stuff. I am not real handy, and even a sabre saw is a dangerous item in my hands.....but what the hell, I figure 2 boxes are only about $30 (at my local closeout store) so I'll dive in tomorrow, weather permitting. I think I will need to forgo the middle seat because I have no idea how to do it without covering the rails.

mmmdiesel Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:49 pm

Came across this van on vw-tristar.com. Amazing woodwork and it's for sale. White syncro 14" with both diff locks.





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MootPoint Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:57 pm

mmmdiesel wrote: Came across this van on vw-tristar.com. Amazing woodwork and it's for sale. White syncro 14" with both diff locks.

Obviously built by someone who has or used to have a sailboat.

Silence262 wrote: even a sabre saw is a dangerous item in my hands.....but what the hell
If you use a saber saw (or any saw), get a fine-tooth blade and a good square for marking/cutting the stuff. Better yet rent, borrow, steal a "chop saw" ("cut-off" saw, miter saw) with a fine tooth blade. It will make your project much, much easier, less frustrating, faster, and cleaner. Trust me...

tozovr Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:06 am

Silence262 wrote: I think I am going to try it with some cheap stuff. I am not real handy, and even a sabre saw is a dangerous item in my hands.....but what the hell, I figure 2 boxes are only about $30 (at my local closeout store) so I'll dive in tomorrow, weather permitting. I think I will need to forgo the middle seat because I have no idea how to do it without covering the rails.

I'm think I will unbolt the rails and mark where they anchor, and just bolt the rails on top. If I relieve the wood to expose the rails, the seat may not fit in...no matter what I will have to look at the rails when the seat is out.

speedygeorge Sun Apr 25, 2010 5:05 pm

This is a nice greyish click togeather floor with no adhesive required, trim piece was from Home Depot, total cost $50.




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akyrie Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:17 am

My flooring does bang up, but that doesn't stop it from looking beautiful. I think it is important to realize that it wont stay top forever.

How to do it was simple, gluing was the most intensive part, although afterwards it was apparent that this step was useless since I ended up screwing the flooring down anyway(I previously tried to glue with ABS glue so I wouldn't need to screw). I used 1/2 inch marine plywood for a sub-floor, that was just layed down ontop of the rubber matt that was on teh floor in the beginning. Then I cut the boards to the right length and screwed it down(pre-drilling the wholes first to allow room for the wooden plugs), not much to talk about. I did however cap the screw wholes with some wood and glue. Then I sanded a couple times and stained and finished with a bit of polyurethane to top it off. I cut the trim to go around the big square floor, and nailed that.


here you can see the glueing process, which wasn't necessary afterall

shoemakerluis Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:05 pm

mmmdiesel wrote:



haha, this seat is awesome

westynova Sat May 01, 2010 1:33 pm

Had hardwood/ engineered floor but while I had it all, for an interior refinishing, our I found that water had made its way through. As a result the subfloor was wet and in some sections had mold growing on it. New subfloor is installed and I am moving to a non-permeable material. Found some nice stuff at Home Depot. It is a peel and stick tile with an overlapping seam. Will post pictures once installed.

jeffklein Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:15 pm

TopBud wrote: Allsierra
How did you attach the middle seat with the wood there. I want to do the same set up, sometimes I have the seat in, sometimes I don't. Thanks

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I plan on doing something similar and don't like the look of the rails.

Home Team Van Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:50 pm

Here's some inexpensive laminate in my Vanagon. First I put down B-Quiet then 1/4" foam underlayment, then the 8mm laminate.



Here's some hand scraped hickory that I put down in a friend's 71 bus. POR 15, B-Quiet, plywood, hand scraped hickory.




The Salt Fri Jun 25, 2010 4:55 am

mmmdiesel wrote:

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Nice wine rack.

RadioRental Fri Jun 25, 2010 5:22 am

mmmdiesel wrote:

[/img]

Why is that door necessary? Stop terrorists from storming the cockpit.

Seems like a major hindrance.

Royb Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:19 am

and....is that a swing out ironing board on the right?

Oettingerdiesel Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:35 am

i will have a complete custom interior made of wood in 1 month will post pictures soon. I already purchased all the supplies no just need to make time to get it done!

silversync Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:45 am

Hi,

I don't post too much, but wanted to send a pic of what the previous owner did. The sides, including back of side door, are thin plywood. The under seat panel is some type of laminate. It makes the interior feel nice.



Roland

Reyes Fri Jun 25, 2010 6:36 pm

I just had wood installed the other day. It looks great! Cost $150 for material and labor (not handy enough to do it myself :D )

DAIZEE Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:27 am

I love my laminate floor. It's hardy and I have one of those little hand mops which cleans it out in a few minutes. Wish I could have it in thefront section also but that's not feasable.

Extremely glad I got rid of the rug!!!! :lol:

akyrie Wed Aug 18, 2010 11:42 am

I found that the board under the bench seat was only covered with a plastic like laminate. I was able to remove the laminate with a blowdryer, then I sanded and stained. now it is super slick looking with the wood floors.

Worms Tue May 10, 2011 2:34 am

wavanagon wrote: allsierra123 wrote: Here are my wood floors.





hey allsierra, how did you mount that middle seat? do you not have tracks? that seems pretty dangerous.

if that was just a test fit, disregard.

I have to wonder the same here - is the seat not mounted onto the rail as it was originally????? It's not the bolts that hold the seat there, it's the rails! They take most of the load - you are safer with the rails and no bolts, that with bolts and no rails interlocked to the seat base. If you use just bolts, you need a large plate washer under the bolt head, and use ALL the bolts you can. The seat have the seatbelt anchorages mounted on it, so is VERY structural. 4 standard bolts, with normal washer would probably tear through the seat base in a major accident.



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