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Thu Apr 29, 2004 7:57 am

I don't know what the technical name is for the 3-way pipes that attach on each side in the back of the trunk (close to the dash board). Two levers and cables control airflow to the dash board vents. You know what I'm talking about!

Anyhow, The rubber sleeves that "seal" the pipes to each other are rotten on my 70 ghia and I've decided to replace them.

My God, what a pain!

I finally managed to do it by pushing the sleeves onto the metal pipes attached to the car, rolling them back onto themselves, placing the 3-way pipe into position and rolling the sleves onto this pipe.

Any better ideas? If not, then anyone reading his can learn from it when they go to tackle this problem.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:36 am

Agreed, those rubber junction sleeves can be a royal PITA.
From where did you source the parts?
I've also seen the junction sealed incorrectly with duct tape or that aluminum tape (adhesive-backed) used in HVAC applications. At least you can take pride in a job properly done. The technique you used is the best, IMHO.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 10:15 am

There is no better way of getting the factory seals on. I'm convinced the Germans did this first, then built the rest of the car around it. What's aggravating is looking at them 6 months later and finding one split open. It's even worse when you know how hard it's going to be.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 11:27 am

I am a newbie, with a newbie question, and no I have not purchased the bentley book, but I will soon.
I have a 1970 Ghia that I drive everyday, I am starting to look at going through the heating system to get the car ready to make it through next winter. I understand that the levers under the dash are to help defrost the window, but I have also seen these referred to as fresh air vents. Since I have not torn it apart, does this let in fresh air, or just open up to the heating system ducting? When I open this I get a little warm air on the windshield, but nothing like the hot air I am getting at foot level. Would putting a booster fan in the ducting help more hot air on my windshield?
I am currently replacing seals on windows and hood, horn, etc in an effort to make this an all year vehicle.
Any information would be great.
Thanks.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 1:36 pm

brettlt,
My heater channels are in perfect shape, as is all my ducting. I cannot have the heat on at highway speeds - it's just too hot. But even with all other vents closed, I've never gotten more than a whiff of lukewarm air out the windshield vents. The only thing that effectively defogs my front glass is having those vents open to the "nostril air" and doing 25 mph.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 4:05 pm

Ghiaddict wrote: Agreed, those rubber junction sleeves can be a royal PITA.
From where did you source the parts?
I've also seen the junction sealed incorrectly with duct tape or that aluminum tape (adhesive-backed) used in HVAC applications. At least you can take pride in a job properly done. The technique you used is the best, IMHO.

you've seen mine have you? :) I couldn't find anything close to fitting that. I looked at hardware stores, pool stores for some rubber hose, but couldn't ever find any that was the right size. I duct taped and glued the orignal seals back together. Glue the split seal- then cover it in the tape (I used black so it wasn't as tacky). Then I fit them back in place. They fit snug and the air blows......so I'm not too concerned.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 6:30 pm

70 140 wrote: you've seen mine have you? :) I couldn't find anything close to fitting that. I looked at hardware stores, pool stores for some rubber hose, but couldn't ever find any that was the right size. I duct taped and glued the orignal seals back together. Glue the split seal- then cover it in the tape (I used black so it wasn't as tacky). Then I fit them back in place. They fit snug and the air blows......so I'm not too concerned.

What I used on mine was a bicycle tube...works great and seals really good.
I have commented this to Jim Patterson of House of Ghia back in the late 80s/early 90s.

Thu Apr 29, 2004 6:43 pm

I've used bike tubes for a whole lot of things. I never thought to use it for this.....Thanks for the idea, my setup is working for now, but when they give up I will be sure to do that.

Fri Apr 30, 2004 5:49 am

I think the bike tubing would work great. The repo seals are of fairly stiff rubber that doesn't stretch easily, which makes a tough job tougher.

Thu May 06, 2004 12:17 pm

A little off-topic:

I remember in the late 80's/early 90's they used to advertise a heater blower system that would get rid of the engine fumes by re-routing the heat off the engine? I also thought it could be converted in the summer to act as an engine cooling system without heating the interior. Anybody know what Im talking about? Do they still make something like that?

I see that Barneys Import Parts advertises a defroster/heater booster system, they may have been the ones that had the system Im thinking off.

I cant seem to get thier website to work to see:

www.barneysimportparts.qwestdex.com

_Bart

Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:06 am

Even more off topic (sorta....kinda of). Does any one know how to get this flap out without destroying it? I'm sure I could attempt it but of course after mangling it I would have the ah ha moment and realize that is out it comes out. I want to paint strip and masterseries the inside.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:27 am

I tried the bike tube idea first. After the appropriate level of frustration they got flying lessons and I ordered some from KGPR. Softer rubber. Got 2 of 3 on perfect on drivers side vent. Tape looking good on other. Still have pass. side to do. The rolling them on like a condum does work. There must be a better way !!! Having speedo and glove box already out hasn't been help,and is holding up progress.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:32 am

ovghiaguy, I assume that was directed at me......I understand about the rubber tubes, I was asking about taking the flap out that is inside the mixing valve. Want to clean it up and paint the inside as well as the outside.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:14 am

well I did figure it out, so to answer my own ? Take a tiny screw driver and slide between the rubber flap and the pivot rod on both sides, working whatever bond they have with each other and it will eventually slide out.
Be gentle so as not to tear the flap.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:32 pm

HPW, nice pics you posted. Looking the mixer, it looks to be made of metal. Mine are plastic on a 70 coup. Are mine repo's already ?

Sun Apr 25, 2010 1:11 pm

ovghiaguy wrote: HPW, nice pics you posted. Looking the mixer, it looks to be made of metal. Mine are plastic on a 70 coup. Are mine repo's already ?

Yes mine are metal, the valve that I removed from inside is rubber. Don't know if the latter models came with a plastic or metal air mixer.

Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:39 pm

I considered killing myself many times while installing those sleaves. It can be done but it takes some patients. I agree that they were installed first and the rest of the car was built around them or they installed them with the tank out before the body was put on the chasis. That way they could stand and install them. It's possible they trained monkeys to do the job.

Mon May 03, 2010 4:24 pm

AFTER Pictures,
Nice and shiny, definite improvement

Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:23 pm

Can anyone tell me what year or range of years had the air mixture controls with the white handle and blue dots? Thanks

Sun Feb 22, 2015 10:09 pm

I have just been struggling to install my seals. The suggestion to roll them back works well. The worst was the tube right next to the level controls. I ended up loosening the control box to give me room. I then rolled the rubber tube onto the pipe coming from the body. The other tubes I rolled onto the pipes that are part of the diverter unit.
One thing I did discover-the replacement tubes from KGP&R are about half as thick. The original tubes measured 2 mm thick, the replacement parts 1 mm thick. This makes them more flimsy and harder to line-up. The old ones had a stiffness that helped with alignment. (see photos). The other difference was the original ones were shorter, which makes them more likely to work loose.
Comparison of new (left) and old (right)

New piece-

Original-

Length comparison-