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Sat Nov 25, 2006 5:01 am

Hello all,
After a complete overhaul for my 1300 engine (1973 beetle) I just finished 300 miles and I planned to retorque the head but than I realized you should take the engine out for that task.. I read the Van Ness article about his first time 1600 engine rebuild that he did and that at the end he skipped the retorque he planned to do after a few hundreds miles.. (http://type2.com/rvanness/1600saga.htm)
so I'm wondering if I should do it (as far as I remember the other books I read talking about doing it (Jhon Muir and Tom Wilson)
I'm planning anyway to replace the oil, replace the oil filter, adjust the valves.
looking for advise :?

thank you.

Sat Nov 25, 2006 5:22 am

I had my heads replaced on my '70 bug with an AE engine. The VW mechanic told me to retorque them, just the ones under the rockers, at 500 miles. He did not tell me I had to remove the rocker arm assemblies but it was obvious so I did. One head, the left, was OK and did not take any additional torque but the right side took quite a bit.
Be careful reassembling the rockers and push rods. There is no need to remove the engine to retorque what I have described. After you finish torquing with a calibrated torque wrench, reset your valve clearances. Might want to check them before and after so you will have something to compare to. If the nuts turn some from torquing then the valve clearance will change anyway.

Good Luck,
Jim

Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:12 am

Either drop the engine and torque all the studs correctly or don't do it all and don't worry about it. Do not torque half of them and think you've done it correctly.

Sat Nov 25, 2006 7:59 am

I agree.
Retorquing only half the bolts could create more problems than it would solve.
If memory serves me correctly ( and sometimes it don't) I didn't have to drop the engine out to retorque my heads. Did have to remove the upper engine tin however.

Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:58 am

VW recommended retorquing the heads but about 75 to 80% of the time you can get by without retorquing them. So a lot of shops waite and see. And yes retorque all or none. We retorque all non stock motors especially any running high compression. Head Torquing info & Picture <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/headtorque.htm

Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:17 pm

I pulled the engine and found one head stud lost maybe 3-4 lbs. torque. I torqued it to 22lbs......now I wonder should I have backed them all out to 7lbs. following the removal sequence.....and then start all over to 22lbs.

What's the consensus ?????

Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:59 pm

Failer wrote: Either drop the engine and torque all the studs correctly or don't do it all and don't worry about it. Do not torque half of them and think you've done it correctly.

What he said X2

Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:05 pm

Mr.Duncan wrote: Failer wrote: Either drop the engine and torque all the studs correctly or don't do it all and don't worry about it. Do not torque half of them and think you've done it correctly.

What he said X2

I did that but only one was loose.......but should I undo them all down to 7lbs., then back up to 22lbs. .

Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:10 pm

you're fine.

Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:32 pm

Brand new cars - manufacturers do not bring in to re-torque.

However, when I rebuilt my '88 B2200 engine, I did re-torque at about 600 miles.

Sat Jul 09, 2016 1:18 pm

Hi. Cant compare any new car maintenance procedure with the air-cooled design of over 30 years. But, dealers used to retorque water cooled engines prior to the stretch bolt technology.
As far as our air-cooled engine goes, it is a case by case decision. Expensive engines I'm sure get checked. Stock, conservative, engines probably not, if quality parts are utilized. I know guys who used to retorque those cheapo 8mm aftermarket studs because of suspicions of low quality.
Bill.

Sat Jul 09, 2016 6:02 pm

:) Torque on the heads is done crisscross whether it be a VW ,straight 6 or V8 engine...no difference as to sequel. Start on the inside and work outwards.

As stated, VW never had any new cars sold return for a head re-torque....same goes for any engine rebuild or repair.

Sat Jul 09, 2016 6:59 pm

with copper head gadgets Ive found the lower studs get loose the upper ones dont seem to:shock: well less than 2 pounds.Ive had lowers loose much more and leek compression.I presure from the valve spring pressures and the pushrods pushing trying to push the head off from the bottom side only. I dont know if it's studs setteling in form the "pounding"& spring pressures or just what it is. there also longer so they will streach more when they get hot from running and the added spring pressure.but Ive checked them and only the lowers needed retorquing.so....I make it a habbit to retorque/check it after a few heat cycles. once retorqued they stay. never had any issues with top studs. remember there is sealer/locktight/ goose greessee whatever on the threads and under the washers&nuts too so thats4 places that can get the stuff wiggled around or out and the tops dont see that extra pressure.

without head gadgets I havent a clue as I will not build one without gadgets.

Mon Jul 11, 2016 11:17 am

HRVW wrote: :) Torque on the heads is done crisscross whether it be a VW ,straight 6 or V8 engine...no difference as to sequel. Start on the inside and work outwards.

As stated, VW never had any new cars sold return for a head re-torque....same goes for any engine rebuild or repair.

WRONG. VW water cooled inline 4's, gas and diesel, prior to the stretch bolt technology had a first service and this included a cylinder head retorque.
Also, I worked at dealers where we in-house built air-cooled motors and had customer return for the first service with a lower stud retorque. This was before VWoA elevated the individual engine parts prices to a point where the service dept could not be competitive.
Bill

Mon Jul 11, 2016 2:25 pm

ive not seen any dealer service dept that was competitive.and not many that were good at what they were trying to do either(other than the billing)