TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:12 pm

This is some good stuff! I have used it on a lot of small parts and a few larger ones. On a large area of sheetmetal I placed a paper shop towel on the metal then saturated it, ten minutes later I removed it and all of the surface rust went with the towel. I find it to be a lot more user friendly for small parts though. Below is an example of the work it does. The bolt from my water pump was soaked in the solution over night. Then the bolt was lightly buffed with a fine wire wheel, however it was rust free before that was done.

This--
added to this--
Gives you this--

Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:32 am

Very impressive :shock: . Is it a box store item?

Sat Apr 07, 2007 5:36 am

the first of april is over... no more jokes please ;-)

Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:30 am

nice job on the photoshop :D

i'll try it

Sat Apr 07, 2007 6:33 am

Wow...Great to see....Where do you buy that stuff?

Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:11 am

I am not familiar with this product, but I remove rust for cheap, with the same results.

Most chemical supply stores (look in the yellow pages) sell bags of Oxalic Acid crystals.
Oxalic Acid is a rust eater. The acid is an oxidizing agentt, ie. it eats oxygen, since rist is oxidizing steel, the acid attackis and removes the rust and leaves the parent metal alone.
I bought a couple of 25 kg bags, and mixed up a concentrated solution and I kepp it in a big plastic container, any rusty parts get dropped in overnight... no rust in the morning.

Since the rust has the only oxygen, the acid wont attack the parent metal, just the oxygen molocule.

warning, some steels with high carbon content may be attacked if forgotten and left in too long, I dropped a motorcycle chain in, and came back a bout a week later, and the hardened rollers were crispy!
I have forgotten bolts however, and had no problem.

This stuff works great on bolts, panels, etc.

More Mr. Wizard Chemical stuff...
I have another 1/2 55 gallon drum with sodium hydroxide solution (Lye), this eats oil and grease, narly oil/grease soaked parts come out clean after a garden hosing over night soak. Same stuff as the old 'hot tank' solutions, works ok cold with some time.

warning, dont put aluminum in sodium hydroxide... it will melt it, a short dip turns the surface black, but be careful.

Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:13 am

Not a joke! Not Photoshop! Purchased at Autozone! Not an Acid, in fact it is non toxic! Look=http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

Sat Apr 07, 2007 11:34 am

They say you can drink it. It looks like Gatorade! mmmmm

Not so good for seam rust but great for anything that fits in a bucket

Sun Apr 08, 2007 10:58 am

If you have a large amount and a pump that could continuously circulate it over the seam it would be great. But the small 32oz container cost around $7 so it would be an expensive venture to do this.

Bucket parts however is the way to go. I have done my coolant crossover pipes in this stuff and the beauty of it is it removes the interior rust that I normally couldn't get too. The pipes are like new with the exception of any pitting from the rust damage itself. The bolt above was an example of what this stuff does. But like I said I lightly buffed it with a fine wire brush after. The parts do not come out of the solution shining like chrome. They do come out rust free though.

Sun Apr 08, 2007 4:45 pm

tsombrero1 wrote: They say you can drink it. It looks like Gatorade! mmmmm

Not so good for seam rust but great for anything that fits in a bucket

Loogy seems to have experience with it treating seams. I am about to start the process myself. His syringe idea sounds interesting.

Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:56 pm

Quote: Loogy seems to have experience with it treating seams. I am about to start the process myself. His syringe idea sounds interesting.

Syringe idea? Soak seam, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat. Unless I missed something, you are supposed to keep the rust wet with this stuff otherwise you are wasting your time.

Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:11 pm

if anyone has tried this with seam rust, any pics, any info at all. I hope we can all save our vans without having to spend a bunch of loot.

let us know
Cheers
MC

Sun Apr 08, 2007 7:42 pm

for seam rust the rust removing gel might work better as it's thick and would sit in the seam. i've never actually used the stuff, just saw it at a friend's house once, so if anybody has experience i'm all ears.

Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:56 pm

Naval Jelly or Ospho (Which I did eventually find at a huge Ace Hardware store) are both very thick pastes that you could probably leave on a rusted seam. My rust was really quite shallow, as far as I could tell, so I used what I had, that Klean Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch, and soaked the whole area down quite heavily, which is what the instructions said to do.

As far as I could see, the rust was gone when I checked 24 hours later, then it was three coats of Hammerite and Mercury Corrosion Preventer, which is that WaxOyl the Huns used in the engine compartment, supposedly. Don't know if I got it, but with the fiberglass gone and replaced with Reflectix, at least an aggravating factor is gone.

Best!

Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:16 pm

All these reactions can be sped up considerbly by heating. Phosphoric Acid, which has been used for 80 years on firearms in a process known as Parkerizing. It makes the surface very able to hold rust preventers such as Zinc Chromate or oils. It works about 100 times faster as you get the item to around 170°-190° F. You can heat the area gently with a heat gun or put a radiant on to on the backside at a distance that will allow heating, but will not cook the paint.

Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:35 pm

To my knowledge, all of the rust "removers" or converters need to stay wet until they are done doing their job.

The deal with the syringe is that you can "inject" the seam with the product instead of relying on any wicking action to get the product deep down into the seam. Even if you used it without a needle, the syringe would allow you to apply the product very sparingly to a seam without having to dump a whole crapload all over the place.

However you do it, make sure that you remove ALL of the old seam sealer before you begin.

If your concerned about the seam drying out before your next application or just don't have time to babysit it, you could lay some duct tape over the seam leaving a little "hump" over the seam itself. Seal the low end of the hump to the body and then use a syringe (or whatever) to fill the hump in the tape with product. Just keep adding product until you feel that it has done it's job.

If you decide to just keep applying more product every so often, keep a drip pan under the job to catch the runoff which can be reused.

Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:23 am

I wire-wheeled my seams after getting all the old seam sealer out. I tried the syringe thing (with wet paper towels and saran wrap) but keeping it wet for 24 hours was still too painful for me. One thing about wire wheels, watch out for heat buildup! I warped my panel around the outlets :(

BTW, in my battery compartment I used "Rust Free" (from theruststore.com). It works fast but is a little less friendly. They also sell these "Sandflex Rust Erasers" which do a pretty amazing job of removing surface rust.

Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:54 pm

Another idea is to set a catch pan (as a reservoir) under the seam to be treated. Something that could hold a bottle or two of the evapo-rust, then using a small low volume pump, set it up to trickle over the seam for overnight. As long as the stuff was returned to the reservoir and circulation is maintained it would work great. Maybe use a train transformer to control pump speed...

Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:00 pm

Would this work on exhaust systems??

Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:31 pm

I haven't tried it on exhaust pipes yet but I would think so. I would ask myself though, how rusted is it and is it worth saving?