TheSamba.com :: View topic

Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:05 am

We constantly get asked “how do I lower my car”, so this is will be a “sticky” so that we don’t have to answer the same question over and over again.

Please post descriptions, pictures and parts needed to lower a Ball Joint beam.

There will be a similar topic for Link Pin beams in the Beetle forum, so Ball Joint only here.

Please keep this technical and no BS’ing.

Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:13 am

There's basically 2 ways to lower a ball joint beam. You can get "dropped" spindles that lower the front 2.5". Or you can get an adjustable beam.

Dropped spindles actually move the spindle up 2.5" which lowers the car. You simply replace the spindles and it's done. Some dropped spindles widen the track a 1/4" on each side, so it's 1/2" in total. You might have some tire clearance issues with these.

Adjustable beams need to be cut and have adjusters weld in. You can buy a new beam with adjusters already installed or you can buy the adjusters and install them yourself. There are 2 styles, Sway-A-Way and AVIS. I have AVIS and here are some pictures.

I lowered my car 3" in the front.

Before

After

Before

After

Things to watch out for:

If you lower the car more than a few inches it will alter the front end geometry. This can cause more difficult steering at low speed. To correct this you can buy Caster Shims. These are aluminum wedges that fit behind the lower torsion tube and the body and tilt the bottom tube out which restores the caster angle.

You might also need shorter shocks. If you use stock shocks, they will be precompressed and give a harsh ride. 1972 Opel GT front shocks are the same as the VW except that are 2" shorter.
KYB GR2 part# 343143 - VW Beetle front ball joint (stock)
KYB GR2 part# 344098 - Opel GT front (2” short)

You might also need a "lowered" sway bar. If you drop it more than a few inches the stock sway bar is very close to the ground. A "lowered" bar is just bend differently so it gives more ground clearance.

Ball joints are another issue. If you drop just a few inches, you're OK. But if you drop 4 or more, your ball joints will bind. Lowered ball joints are just modified so there's more travel in the joint so it can handle a more extreme angle of deflection.

When you drop the front you might have tire clearance problem. Narrower and lower tires might help. If it doesn't you can "narrow" the beam which pulls the wheels in a inch or two. But narrowing a beam is another topic.

You can also use and adjustable beam with dropped spindles so you can tune the height to exactly what you want or... drop it in the weeds and scrape the ground.

Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:24 am

Here's an excellent webpage with info and pictures on installing Sway-A-Away adjusters.

http://speedster.chriskate.net/frontbeam.html

Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:30 pm

Nice job Glenn... long time coming :wink:

Sat Nov 19, 2005 5:56 pm

Here's another way to lower your front end without having to weld or cut anything.

You replace your springs with rods and use coil-overs to adjust ride higth and stiffness.

Click here and check it out.http://www.red9design.co.uk/ezrider.htm

Sun Nov 20, 2005 7:44 am

Hey Glenn, at what distance of drop do we need to worry about caster shims. I just read an artical in an old VW Trends that covered that subject, but it gave no reference to how much drop required no shims, what is the breaking point, if you will? Mine is exactly like yours, except I think they put drop spindles on too. I ride the same height as your Beetle.

Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:38 am

I say anything from 2-4" need single shims and more than 4" should have double shims.

Thu Nov 24, 2005 8:43 am

you don't need to use shims if you lower the back of the car too.

lowered 3" in the front and 2" in the back... only one inch is no biggie

Thu Nov 24, 2005 9:29 am

1962 x3 wrote: you don't need to use shims if you lower the back of the car too.

lowered 3" in the front and 2" in the back... only one inch is no biggie

Agreed....

Sun Nov 27, 2005 6:21 am

just remember, when you install caster shims you will need longer bolts. I believe when i bought the longer bolts they from bugpack, not 100% on that. Dave@Bug City in Ct. supplied mine.

Where is the best place to buy the modified BJ's themselves? I assume a few companies make them, but who's are the best?
Thanks.

Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:14 pm

You can get them at a hardware store. Stock is M12x90x1.5. so if you get M12x100x1.5 you won't have a problem.

Tue Nov 29, 2005 5:07 am

i had to re-evaluate my queston about where to get he quality BJ's because I thought you were telling me I could get them at a hardware store. im like, what kinda hardware store do you have over there glenn?
:)
but yes, the bolts you can get at the hardware store. It's just that many hardware stores (Ace, by my house) doesnt deal with a huge variety of metric stuff. they have some metric, just not alot of it.

Tue Nov 29, 2005 6:52 am

Stevie Fierce wrote: but yes, the bolts you can get at the hardware store. It's just that many hardware stores (Ace, by my house) doesnt deal with a huge variety of metric stuff. they have some metric, just not alot of it.

The ACE by me carries alof of metric hardware and in Grade 8.8.

Thu Dec 01, 2005 1:23 pm

The article is great, but some points should be clarified:

balljoints: when using drop-spindels there is no need for long-travel balljoints as far as I can think of

caster-shims: are these also needed for drop-spindels. some say yes, some say no (depends on the rear height if I am correct?)

Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:04 pm

redhot wrote: caster-shims: are these also needed for drop-spindels. some say yes, some say no (depends on the rear height if I am correct?)

I say yes, the front of the car is still pitched down which will reduce caster angle.

Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:57 pm

but what if the rear of the car is dropped WAY down? is it still necessary? i just dropped my 67 another spline in the back (2) and will be going thru the front again when i install the narrower beam. currently i am running 2 in but want 5 or so! so maybe i lose my caster shims ????
any thoughts.

Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:12 pm

It has to do with the relationship of the front to the rear.

If you drop the front 4" and the rear 3", then the next drop is 1" and you don't need the shims.

Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:41 pm

Can anyone post an install guide with some photos?

I've been sitting on this thing for almost a year b/c I can't find a shop to do it and I haven't been brave enough to attempt it myself :D

Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:52 am

Get the Bentley shop manual. Swapping in an adjustable beam is the same as replacing a stock beam.

Thu Dec 08, 2005 11:02 am

I am rather new to the site and have receintly purchased and breathed life back into my 68. Lowering it is at the top of my list for this spring. I have been searching for more information as time permits. One resource that I have found is http://www.airkewld.com/pages/howto.php I hope that it helps.