TheSamba.com :: View topic - how to patch a hole? fiberglass v por 15 questions...

Sat Jun 16, 2007 8:24 am

:: First time body work newbie warning::

I've got about 10 holes I need to fill, ranging from pin size to golf ball size.

Per reading on the forums, I've got some por 15 and Evercoat fiberglass.

My question is....

Should I fill the holes with fiberglass and then put the por 15 over them? Obviously, I don't think that will stop the rust. Should I spray some rust inhibitor first, then fill, then cover w/ por?

Any help on how to tackle this is mucho appreciato!

Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:24 am

First- where are the holes? Floorpan? Body panels?
I'd weld new metal in if you're able on the golf ball sized ones, and on the pinholes, braze them shut and grind them. On the floorpan, it's a structural integrity thing, and on the body the problem you can run into is that fibreglass or other fillers can expand and contract at different rates than the metal, causing cracks in the paint.

Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:36 am

weld it up. unless its a boat, glass it up.

Sat Jun 16, 2007 11:24 am

thanks all. i do realize that welding new metal in is the BEST way to do it. unfortnately, and I HATE to say this, but I'm sort of "half assing" this project.

couple reasons:

1) time
2) money
3) inexperience with welding

This is just a short-term fix for a poor bus.

just found some more pinholes on the sliding door rocker. awesome!

Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:35 pm

i'd rather leave the rust than glass it, hell put some duct tape on it :lol:

Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:14 pm

Get a twisted wire brush wheel and clean it up good.

If I were doing it, I would fiberglass anything I could put a pencil through and anything small just fill with all-metal. All-Metal works like Bondo® but has metal in it instead of plastic.

Sand and finish. Epoxy primer. Paint to match.

Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:09 am

Take some welding or body work classes at the local community college and fix her up right :idea:

Sun Jun 17, 2007 8:39 am

i do plan to take a welding class....this fall.

as I mentioned in my previous post, I am not at the point of welding so I for other alternatives (yes, of less quality).

I've already grinded away all the surface rust and cleaned the spots of well. I plan to degrease and port 15 any areas I can reach. Otherwise, I will spray some MUST for RUST and then coat the outside with Por 15. Fiberglass over the rest (EverCoat) and then sand/prime/paint.

thanks for the help all.

Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:00 pm

Read this post:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...c7ae46aba1

John

Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:36 pm

Depending on where they are ...

Use the KBS NuMetal for the larger holes. It is an epoxy putty that works great.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-NuMetal-Epoxy-Putty-1-lb-P99C36.aspx

For the Pinholes, use the KBS BackBone in conjunction with the KBS RustSeal. I have used it and it sealed up the pinholes and strengthened the area.

KBS BackBone: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/BackBone-Reinforcing-Mesh-P115C31.aspx

KBS RustSeal: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-RustSeal-C37.aspx

Sat Jul 07, 2007 9:55 am

just read this post and now im curious. Could I use the numetal or other metal putty materials to replace my fender nut that rusted out?? I have a golf ball sized rust hole where one of my fender nuts was removed. The entire nut panel around the nut came out and I assumed only welding would suffice. Could I use this stuff for that as well?? If the car is later media blasted and primed, would this stuff come loose???

Same boat, I want to get the car done, next welding course here is in august, hate to wait until then!! Not sure how much a welder would charge anyways to patch up 3-4 small rust holes!!

Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:17 am

While wire-wheeling away the rust in preparation to remove the old rusted the rear package shelf:

I found many small pin-holes of rust on the wheel well, that go all the way through...

I applied a wire wheel to the "outside" (inside of the wheel well) and got both sides down to bare metal.

I do have a MIG welder but lack experience in this type of work.

A buddy from work (a HT in the Navy) told me:
"Put a copper bar tight up against the the opposite side, and weld them closed and grind it all smooth again, the fills will be stronger than the original metal."

Is it really as simple as this?

Sat Jul 07, 2007 5:33 pm

SandSquid wrote: I do have a MIG welder but lack experience in this type of work.

A buddy from work (a HT in the Navy) told me:
"Put a copper bar tight up against the the opposite side, and weld them closed and grind it all smooth again, the fills will be stronger than the original metal."

Is it really as simple as this?

Not sure about it being stronger, or by using a bar or how simple it is, but i've heard that you can use a peice of cut-up copper tin behind a hole and weld it up. The welds will not stick to the copper and gives the weld something to stick w/o going all over the place.

I think that i saw this in an old eastwood co. catalog once. They had these little peices of copper tin called "plates" that you can clamp over the hole, and a spoon type tool that does the same thing. www.eastwoodco.com

Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:42 pm

10 out of 10 buddy. This is a brilliant idea!

a.wilson wrote: SandSquid wrote: I do have a MIG welder but lack experience in this type of work.

A buddy from work (a HT in the Navy) told me:
"Put a copper bar tight up against the the opposite side, and weld them closed and grind it all smooth again, the fills will be stronger than the original metal."

Is it really as simple as this?

Not sure about it being stronger, or by using a bar or how simple it is, but i've heard that you can use a peice of cut-up copper tin behind a hole and weld it up. The welds will not stick to the copper and gives the weld something to stick w/o going all over the place.

I think that i saw this in an old eastwood co. catalog once. They had these little peices of copper tin called "plates" that you can clamp over the hole, and a spoon type tool that does the same thing. www.eastwoodco.com

Here’s my crappy patch job on my Westy’s roof. I wish I knew this copper trick.

Thu Apr 18, 2019 9:58 am

I use a two FT long piece of 1/2" copper water pipe that has about six inches on one end smashed flat. It works like a champ and is long enough to reach behind panels and into corners, if needed.

Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:21 pm

You can get copper spoons from harbor freight cheap, they have a rubber handle on them, found in the welding section.

The copper backing keeps you from blowing through the thin steel and build the weld up to fill the hole. The weld will not stick to the copper you simply move it away when you are done. Just a reminder the copper will be really hot!

Clean the rust away as best you can, use the welder to fill the holes from the outside and gradually build up weld material until you have filled the center of the hole, grind, prime, paint, and enjoy.