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  View original topic: Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next
captainpartytime Mon Aug 20, 2007 8:56 pm

Parts from GoWesty
Final drive seals: $15.98/each (x 2)
Caps: $3.95/each (x 2)
Circlips (used): $1.95/each (x 2)
Spacer: $0.49/each (x 2)
Lock ring pliers from Sears $14.00

Punch through cap with screwdriver and pry out cap

Remove circlip with lock-ring pliers

Remove flange, spring washer, and cover

Drill small hole in oil seal then screw in wood screw. Pull out seal from screw with hammer claw.

Final drive oil seal removed

New oil seal installed. I lubed the seal and used a brass punch to carefully install the seal.
[url]
Clean and install cover

Install flange, spring washer and circlip. I used my plyers and a rubber mallet to compress the flange while installing the new circlip.

Install new cap, re-pack cv joint bearings, and torque down drive shaft bolts to 45 Nm or 33 ft. lbs.

She loves it when the tranny doesn't leak anymore!

Bern Mon Aug 20, 2007 9:59 pm

nice write-up. I need to do this on mine, but I think I'm just gonna nut up and get the tranny I want built with the guts I want... now I just need to find a way to win the lotto... :lol:

70coupyel Mon Aug 20, 2007 10:42 pm

Damn! Floors and seals in one day???
You Da Man

And that cutie dau of yours must love her jungle jim Vanagon!

weatherbill Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:43 pm

how dare you! Send your little girl under there to do the job! What kind of dad are you?......LOL :lol:


psych-illogical Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:56 pm

I remembered seeing this thread a little while ago. I just ordered the parts to do this job on mine (and a half a dozen other nagging little repairs). My only question is based on something shown in the Bentley manual. They show a special puller needed to remove the drive flange. I noticed that you didn't mention anything about that so, did it just pry out easily with a coupla big screwdrivers or what? The puller in the Bentley looks like one that could be easily fabricated but I don't want to go to the trouble if I don't need to.

rs4-380 Tue Sep 11, 2007 1:02 pm

the puller compresses the flange against the spring to releive pressure on the circlip so it's easier to get out. Usually, you can get the flange out without the puller, but it's often hard to get it back in without it (because the flange needs to be compressed far enough to reveal the slot for the circlip). At least that has been my experience on FWD VW trannies, by the looks of the pictorial, it seems that at least in the Original poster's case such a device was not necessary.

kevinbassplayer Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:11 pm

I did this job several months ago and there seemsto be a key component missing. In order to re-install the flange it was necessary to make a special tool with a threaded bolt going through a metal plate to compress the flange back on. I originally tried hammering the thing on with a rubber mallet but there was no way. I'm not sure how you did it without using something to press the flange back on. I also needed to use a standard type gear puller to get the flanges off. Great pictures!

captainpartytime Tue Sep 11, 2007 7:11 pm

My flange came right off. I rapped on it very gently with a mechanics hammer to try and resonate the metal in order to loosen it. I then hit it a couple times with a rubber mallet and it came off with very little pulling force. I definitely DID NOT need a puller. When I re-assembled the flange I rapped it again pretty hard with my rubber mallet to try and seat the flange. I then opened up the new circlip with my pliers and installed it. The circlip wasn't fully seated so I took my brass punch and very gently tapped the circlip working it around until it finally seated. For me, getting the new seal fully seated was the hardest part. Another poster told me to get a socket that just barely cleared the shaft and tap on it which would push on the flange and force the circlip on. I thought this was a good idea but I didn't have any sockets that big (bigger than 22 mm). I would say that this install was easier than I originally anticipated. It's been almost a month and I haven't seen any tranny fluid leak since! Good Luck!!!

kevinbassplayer Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:42 am

Lucky! (read with the Napoelean Dynamite voice)

unibagel Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:01 am

Thanks for the speedy and informative response!! I have a couple of questions though.

1. After I remove all of the CV Bolts does the Axle just move out of the way, or do I need to remove entire driveshaft out of the Van?
2. Best case scenario, how long to typically do the job?

Thanks!
Chris

deprivation Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:14 am

unibagel wrote: 1. After I remove all of the CV Bolts does the Axle just move out of the way, or do I need to remove entire driveshaft out of the Van?
Once the CV bolts are off, gravity will do the rest. It might make the job a little easier to just take the whole axle off. And why not take the time to repack the joints while you're in there?
unibagel wrote: 2. Best case scenario, how long to typically do the job? I replaced my flange seals in a few hours but I tend to work slowly.

captainpartytime Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:15 pm

I took the whole axle off as it made the job a lot easier. I also figured I might as well repack both CV's since I was already doing one side...

Blix Sun Aug 30, 2009 9:59 pm

Still trying to get my head around this job, I'm determined to do this but just need to let it percolate for a week or so first. Trying to get the parts off of busdepot at the moment.

Is this the cap? https://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=002517289A

Do I need Final Drive Seal or Rear Final Drive Seal?

Also what is the spacer piece listed in parts? Can't seem to find that.

I'll take a long look at this when the bentley arrives. Also got the haynes manual maybe it discusses this job as well.

Many thanks to all of you for providing this information and knowledge.
8)

singler3360 Sun Oct 17, 2010 11:30 am

Blix wrote:
Do I need Final Drive Seal or Rear Final Drive Seal?

Also what is the spacer piece listed in parts? Can't seem to find that.


Bump up to see if there are answers to these questions. Thanks.

srmpf Sun May 15, 2011 5:18 pm

thanks for that great writeup - did the job today in two hours ;-)

some hints from my side:
- to remove the flange I had to use a puller tool (rented that for free at the local autozone).
- I used a 46mm nut to hammer the flange seal into place.
- getting the flange back on needed a bit help of a piece of hardwood and a hammer. driver side was easy, passenger side needed more force.
- a smaller nut (27mm) was a great help to put the final seal/cap in place (together with some RTV).

86syncrowesty Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:57 pm

Just did my driver side seal, wondering, the axle flange seems to have slight play in/out, could that be I seated the seal to deeply? I do also have a Small car speed sensor.

srmpf Sun Jun 26, 2011 2:30 pm

that doesn't sound right - the flange should sit on the axle with no play at all. you need some force to get it off and later back on again. Some need more, some less force. I would check the seal again, you might end up with some play if the seal is not seated deep enough, IMHO.

86syncrowesty wrote: Just did my driver side seal, wondering, the axle flange seems to have slight play in/out, could that be I seated the seal to deeply? I do also have a Small car speed sensor.

86syncrowesty Sun Jun 26, 2011 4:29 pm

Thanks, the seal appeared to be seated fully and the circlip acted like it seated fully and doubled checked it to make sure. I will watched it, it may be just a millimeter or less.

stl_stadtroller Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:41 pm

I'm in the middle of doing a complete seal-job and reconditioning of my Syncro trans, and I'm at the part where I should be re-installing my drive flanges.

The part that's holding me up are the 4 M7(?) pan head screws which secure the dust cover / retainer.
I had to darn near destroy my screws getting them out, and I'm having a surprisingly hard time sourcing replacements.

Does anyone have a reliable source for these screws?

Not even Google has helped me here, neither has the search on this forum, though it did reveal this thread thankfully!

Thanks all!

presslab Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:55 am

stl_stadtroller wrote: The part that's holding me up are the 4 M7(?) pan head screws which secure the dust cover / retainer.
I had to darn near destroy my screws getting them out, and I'm having a surprisingly hard time sourcing replacements.


Did you use an impact driver to get the screws out?


ETKA shows the screws as M7x1.25x13, part number N 090 173 3. It is an odd screw, hope that helps you to find it.



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