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Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:53 am

I am working on my wife's '72 SB (Idle problem) and found this page. Would love to hear your thoughts on the info contained there. I have the notch and 5 degrees ATDC pulley.
Tim

http://beetle.motorious.org/wiki/Engine_and_clutch_(stock)/Crankshaft_pulleys

sorry about the link guys...I think the ( and ) characters prevent it from working properly. Copy the link the way out through the 's' in pulleys.

Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:43 pm

Interesting comparisons on that page.

I see they listed a pulley with 5°ATDC and 30°BTDC, with "picture needed" - I don't think they're going to find any original stock pulley with those marks on it. I've never seen one. I've added marks to pullies down there though, usually at 32° for me.

And speaking of which..... I did recently clean up, paint and install the pulley shown towards the very top of this thread onto one of my bugs. Afterwards I took this photo, and then I noticed in one photo that it also had 32° and 35° marks on it that I'd put on there years ago, so I went and captioned it for future reference in case I ever needed it. I haven't had any reason to post it yet though, so I guess I'll do it now.

Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:01 pm

sweet! You've covered all the bases with those markings...:)
Tim

Thu Jul 02, 2009 1:41 pm

Nice info

Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:15 am

Would you guys say this setting would work for a 71 1600 DP motor with a Pertronix electronic (mechanically advanced) dizzy?

I have a dial adjustable timing light so I am going to try it tonight. The car runs well but I want to make sure I am getting all I can out of it.

Thx,
SDJ

Wed Jul 22, 2009 10:54 am

sdj1 wrote: Would you guys say this setting would work for a 71 1600 DP motor with a Pertronix electronic (mechanically advanced) dizzy?

I have a dial adjustable timing light so I am going to try it tonight. The car runs well but I want to make sure I am getting all I can out of it.

Thx,
SDJ

What model is your distributor? :?

Thu Jul 23, 2009 7:43 am

keifernet wrote: sdj1 wrote: Would you guys say this setting would work for a 71 1600 DP motor with a Pertronix electronic (mechanically advanced) dizzy?

I have a dial adjustable timing light so I am going to try it tonight. The car runs well but I want to make sure I am getting all I can out of it.

Thx,
SDJ

What model is your distributor? :?

It's their "flamethrower" line for type 1 vdubs -

Here's a link to the same one I have - http://www.carparts.com/Distributor-Accessories/GP_2012756_N__10618.car

Thx

Thu Jul 23, 2009 8:48 am

That is just a Chineese copy of a 009 with a points replacement module.

Time it this way...

http://www.type2.com/library/electrip/bosch009.htm

Sun Aug 30, 2009 11:12 am

ok kermits pully is not like those .. he has a TDC mark on the front side and 3 notches on back side but on the inside of that lip rather then the outside .... pully has 71AH stamped on the back side too

Sun Aug 30, 2009 2:04 pm

dravin21 wrote: ok kermits pully is not like those .. he has a TDC mark on the front side and 3 notches on back side but on the inside of that lip rather then the outside .... pully has 71AH stamped on the back side too

Post a picture of your pulley. Many times people have filed other notches in pulleys and it can be hard to tell what is what.

Sun Aug 30, 2009 3:58 pm

I've seen some aftermarket pullies with some poorly made notches. Engines overhauled by Vege come with pullies with all 4 marks that look like they were made with a hacksaw blade.

Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:08 pm

1. Get a degree pulley.

2. When building your engine before it's all assembled and you still have access to the crank rod journal, put on the pulley and compare with the case split line. Then you know where the pulley TDC is.

3 Make an adjustable solid stop to screw in the plug hole. Adjust it to stop the piston just before the top. Mark the pulley. Rotate the crank backwards until it again hits the stop. Make another mark.carefully measure between your two new marks and locate the half way point. That's TDC.

Other methods basically tell you when the piston is at the top of it's travel. Don't forget that at the top of the movement arc there is an amount of swing of the crank where the piston basically is motionless. So just running a piston to the top you might miss the real TDC by a few degrees. So if you really want to know TDC do 1 or 2 or 3.

Obviously, trying to interpret notches on stock pulleys is apt to get you in trouble.

Wed May 18, 2011 11:43 am

Glenn wrote: This should help.

This has been my problem all along! Now I know that the funny dent/dimple is TDC. Now it is time to re-do my valves and then set the timing!
HUZZAH!

Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:22 pm

What happens if I don't have a TDC mark on my pulley for my 40hp engine and the only notches I have on the pulley are these two?

Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:58 pm

Those should be 7.5 and 10BTDC. If you want(or even need) to make a TDC mark of some kind with a file or a paint marker, it's not hard to figure out - there's that degree wheel you can print out previous in this thread.

Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:52 pm

glutamodo wrote: Those should be 7.5 and 10BTDC.

Remember that "should" and "are" are two different things. "Might be" is another term that can be thrown in there.

Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:32 pm

I wish this thread was up several weeks ago. I've been wrestling with my timing and couldn't seem to get it dialed in. I have the lower pulley keifernet shows in his picture at the beginning of this thread. Because of the condition of my pulley, I thought the 'dent' in the front of the pulley was just a ding from a hammer or something. As soon as I timed it to that mark my bug seems to run wonderfully.

But... I just realized as I was reading this thread that I had set my valves to the notch ATDC so I think my valves are probably off just a bit. I guess I've got to check/reset them tomorrow morning and see how things run.

Sun Jun 12, 2011 3:01 am

Really, in that whole general area a few degrees to either side of TDC your valves should still be OK to adjust.
-Andy

Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:04 am

Yeah but Desert bus man has a good point on exact true TDC .
Something you should pay attention too or at least consider when timming .
Often the case splitt isnt a true TDC in fact it can be off by quite a bitt ?
This is where a good degree pulley and finding true TDC and a sharpie, come intoo play for fine tunne-ing .
Often when a Engine is rebuilt I will use a metal scribe point to make my own TDC mark on the case .
This is something that is generally done when Degree-ing the Cam shaft to the crank .
Case halve's apart ?
But as the Desert Bus Man describes you dont have to be dismantled to find a true TDC and mark your case appropriately .
The best Teacher for timming is a stroboscopic Timming light and a degree pulley installed .
Then just start playing with your Timming light and timming .
After a while you will began to figure out exactly where your sweet spot really is !!
See there were qaulity control's in place at the factory .
At the factory they did not degree the camm on every Engine that came out .
Instead they would pull the occassional motor of the line check and degree the camm to the crank then make crank key way or cammm lobe posistion adjustment's to correct the problem .
If I had to guess here ?
That advertised 53 Horse's was probably one of the engine's they pulled of the line and corrected ?
Real horse power truth on most engine's and or a engine that was put out torward's the end of a runn is probably around 50 to 52 horse's ?
Least that's my understanding of it ?
Maybe we have a serious Bugg addict in here that actually has some info on exactly what factory procedure's were etc. ?
Trivia : On my desk I actually have a stock OEM V.W. rocker that was runn as in I found it in a blown motor .
It is perfect except for one oil port was never drill'ed the one that goe's to the push rod .
End result as I remember it was Cracked lifter bore and finally stuck a valve ?
Came from the factory this way as it is one of my more interesting find's ?
So much for Qaulity control ? LMAO
Gotta ask how many people worked on this rocker and didnt catch it ?
Possibly the Drill press operator was distracted or injured himself or was it quittin time friday or saturday ?
I just love Old stuff like fossil's that can tell a story .
Maybe I will post a pic of My petrified Dinasaur Egg < tell's a story of it's own ? LMAO
Sean

Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:41 am

I always thought this sticky could use a few more pics to help out those wondering what the markings on their stock pulleys were. Here is a table that was only partially shown on the first page. It shows the pulleys by engine code, year and transmission.

But after decades it is quite possible the engine you are looking at no longer has it's original pulley. So pics and descriptions of the marks might be more helpful. The below pics have the pulleys oriented as you would see them looking into the rear of the engine (top edge is front of car). The notches along the front lip and the "dimple" on the rear lip are highlighted in yellow.

The above pulley is from an early 1200cc. The single notch indicates 10BTDC.

The above pulley has three notches (from left to right):
TDC - 7.5BTDC - 10BTDC

While this pulley looks like the first one, it came off a later model engine. The single notch indicates 5ATDC.

The above pulley has a single notch to the right of the TDC dimple (rear-bottom pulley lip). The notch is 7.5BTDC.

The above pulley has a single notch to the left of the TDC dimple. The notch is 5ATDC.

This last pulley has only two notches and no TDC dimple. The notches are 7.5BTDC and 10BTDC.

There is one pulley that is indicated in the above table that I couldn't find a pic for... a late model auto transmissions, AJ case timed at 0-deg. Does anyone have a pulley with ONLY a TDC mark (dimple or notch)? I would think this could be easily confused with either the 36HP 10BTDC or the later 5ATDC single notch ones above.