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Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:14 pm

what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.

Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:31 pm

Invest it a tap and die to fit the stud and nut. Clean those threads up. Wire brush the corrosion off. I don't use any lube. If the faces of the threads are reasonably smooth, they should come on and off easy and stay tight when torqued properly.

Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:02 pm

type2much wrote: what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.
You can use anti-seize. I would use it on the threads only, don't get any where it contacts the wheel.

I agree on wire wheel your lug nut threads. You should be able to take a lug wrench and spin the lug nuts into the drum with no resistance.

Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:34 pm

You could always try a 12 gauge. :shock:

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2004010439_lugnut13m.html

Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:17 pm

arthurnugen wrote: You could always try a 12 gauge. :shock:

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2004010439_lugnut13m.html

beautiful

Tue Nov 13, 2007 5:01 pm

EverettB wrote: type2much wrote: what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.
You can use anti-seize. I would use it on the threads only, don't get any where it contacts the wheel.

I agree on wire wheel your lug nut threads. You should be able to take a lug wrench and spin the lug nuts into the drum with no resistance.

interesting advice on not using antiseeze on the bolts where they contact the wheel. i have always dabbed a little there as well as the threads and never had a problem. however, the bolt becoming loose is quite a possibility. has anyone ever had a wheel bolt become loose due to antiseeze being used in this way?

Tue Nov 13, 2007 6:49 pm

StockNazi wrote: EverettB wrote: type2much wrote: what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.
You can use anti-seize. I would use it on the threads only, don't get any where it contacts the wheel.

I agree on wire wheel your lug nut threads. You should be able to take a lug wrench and spin the lug nuts into the drum with no resistance.

interesting advice on not using antiseeze on the bolts where they contact the wheel. i have always dabbed a little there as well as the threads and never had a problem. however, the bolt becoming loose is quite a possibility. has anyone ever had a wheel bolt become loose due to antiseeze being used in this way?
I don't think it would really matter but I like the thought of metal on metal contact there.

Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:09 pm

arthurnugen wrote: You could always try a 12 gauge. :shock:

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2004010439_lugnut13m.html
He wasn't even drunk.. wow

Wed Nov 14, 2007 1:43 pm

PB Blaster will losen anything..

Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:43 am

Two weeks now of PB blaster, torch, inpact wrench, hammer and swearing. Those suckers haven't budged yet. I think I might try dry ice next. Maybe it will make the metal contract? I just don't know: I am about out of ideas and am real, real frustrated.

I have other GD things to do besides this.

Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:22 am

66uno wrote: Two weeks now of PB blaster, torch, inpact wrench, hammer and swearing. Those suckers haven't budged yet. I think I might try dry ice next. Maybe it will make the metal contract? I just don't know: I am about out of ideas and am real, real frustrated.

I have other GD things to do besides this.

Impact? or if it runs just put breaker bar on there and drive it fowards use the engine to take it off. Ok that last one wasn't a good idea lol. Could just see it slipping off and flying into someone somthing. :lol:

Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:12 am

I've used an old mechanics trick before that has never let me down. A toilet wax seal and a torch. Heat up the offending lugnut and apply the wax seal. it will melt and get into all the nooks and crannys and then try the breaker bars and impacts.

Not sure where I heard it, but tried it and it worked great. Good luck and let us know what eventually works.

Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:14 am

66uno wrote: Two weeks now of PB blaster, torch, inpact wrench, hammer and swearing. Those suckers haven't budged yet. I think I might try dry ice next. Maybe it will make the metal contract? I just don't know: I am about out of ideas and am real, real frustrated.

I have other GD things to do besides this.

Don't forget breaker bar. I have a 6 foot pipe from a chain link fence that has busted loose nuts that no impact gun could budge. 6 feet x 200 lbs = 1200 foot pounds of torque. Jumping probably increases it even more. If the wheel is spinning, lock it in place with another bar against the ground. Just make sure you have a REALLY sturdy wrench on the bolt.

Tue Jul 14, 2009 12:26 pm

EverettB wrote: StockNazi wrote: EverettB wrote: type2much wrote: what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.
You can use anti-seize. I would use it on the threads only, don't get any where it contacts the wheel.

I agree on wire wheel your lug nut threads. You should be able to take a lug wrench and spin the lug nuts into the drum with no resistance.

interesting advice on not using antiseeze on the bolts where they contact the wheel. i have always dabbed a little there as well as the threads and never had a problem. however, the bolt becoming loose is quite a possibility. has anyone ever had a wheel bolt become loose due to antiseeze being used in this way?
I don't think it would really matter but I like the thought of metal on metal contact there.

Lug nuts/bolts are the one place where I don't use any goo, but then again I've never had one that I couldn't get off.

Considering the pressure between the parts it's unlikely that the anti-seize would prevent metal-to-metal contact. It just fills in the minute gaps to exclude oxygen and prevent corrosion.

Tue Jul 14, 2009 7:25 pm

multiple applications of liquid wrench, each followed by a few taps with the hammer. on day two get that 5' bar back out and hang on it.
I actually hung a heavy bag on my 5ft bar and came out in the morning to have the job done for me. Gooood morning.

Tue Jul 14, 2009 9:03 pm

nice square blow like you want to kill it from a 10lb hammer and a breaker bar with 7' of pipe and its off. with that kind of leverage you can shear the lug bolt. if for whatever reason it doesn't the drum most likely is junk drill it apart if you gotta have the rim, but toss the junk and move forward otherwise.

Wed Jul 15, 2009 7:30 am

GeorgeL wrote: EverettB wrote: StockNazi wrote: EverettB wrote: type2much wrote: what kind of lubricant can be put on lug nuts to keep them from seizing? mine are always real hard to get loose, they creak and then finally pop loose.
You can use anti-seize. I would use it on the threads only, don't get any where it contacts the wheel.

I agree on wire wheel your lug nut threads. You should be able to take a lug wrench and spin the lug nuts into the drum with no resistance.

interesting advice on not using antiseeze on the bolts where they contact the wheel. i have always dabbed a little there as well as the threads and never had a problem. however, the bolt becoming loose is quite a possibility. has anyone ever had a wheel bolt become loose due to antiseeze being used in this way?
I don't think it would really matter but I like the thought of metal on metal contact there.

Lug nuts/bolts are the one place where I don't use any goo, but then again I've never had one that I couldn't get off.

Considering the pressure between the parts it's unlikely that the anti-seize would prevent metal-to-metal contact. It just fills in the minute gaps to exclude oxygen and prevent corrosion. when i remove my lug bolts that i applied anti-sieze to it still makes that creaking sound like a dry bolt makes; almost all the anti-sieze looks like it's been wiped off where the contact point is