TheSamba.com :: View topic - ACE brand rust-stop?

Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:00 am

anyone use that as a car paint? It's supposedly for slowing rust, but I just want a cheap paint solution. They have a primer and the paint is an enamel, I liked the price tag. I have an old siphon airgun a friend gave me. Think this stuff will work, or is it rubbery like rustoleum? I have used it from a rattle can and it felt like normal paint, maybe it's different by the gallon? Looks is not as important as longevity here, with the dollar being allmighty. Can I use the same primer over both fiberglass and painted steel?

oh, and I don't actually plan to stop rust with it, all that junk is getting cut and replaced. thats just the name of it.

Sat Nov 17, 2007 4:29 pm

I don't have any experience w/Ace paint, but if it's cheap and gonna be temporary anyway go for it!

Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:00 am

Hi,

So, why does everyone seem to think that paint is just paint ?!?!?

Is it generally thought that companies offer so many paints simply to increase a stores inventory, offer more selection and confuse the public??

Paint has become a highly specialized industry relying on various compounds and chemicals to make a product superior for any given application.

We have Interior paints, exterior paints, paints for metal, paints for wood, paints for plastic, paints for priming, high temperature paint, fireproof paint, insulating paint and finally paint for automobiles!

Automotive paint is expensive because it is so GOOD.
This stuff will take a rock hit at 65 mph and incur minimal damage
It will flex (minimally and more so with additives) to maintain an impervious surface to air and water infiltration.

It sticks to metal
It resists scratches and chipping
IT withstands intense sunshine
It withstands extreme cold
It can be scrubbed with harsh chemicals
It can be waxed and polished to a high shine
etc, etc, etc.

Auto paints are what you need to paint an automobile with. Anything else is a waste of time and money.
Sure you can convince yourself that your roller job looks great but everyone else looks at it and says good GOD! Did they use a roller to paint THAT! What a shame!

Bite the bullet, do it right. You will not be disappointed.
If OTHER paint types worked on cars so well then why don't the big auto manufacturers paint their cars with it and save massive sums of money ?!?!?

Dave

Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:50 pm

while I appreciate what you are saying, I really don't give a damn about people saying "Oh god, what has he done?" as long as the paint is not going to fall off in a year. patching up small scratches is a lot easier when I have a gallon of paint that cost 34 bucks, and I can buy perfectly matched in a rattle can, than paint I need to mix up myself at a total of 500 bucks. The ACE stuff seems to be used on tractors and equipment and such. I am curious about its longevity, not so much how it looks.

think it will stick to primed fiberglass? will any enamel stick to primed fiberglass, or will the flexing, minimal but there, just crack it all right off?

Tue Nov 20, 2007 7:07 pm

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Roller+Method?t=anon

Here is the link, the last I heard an additional thread on this would be locked. :lol:

Unfortunately I tried it, but lesson learned again that I would never do it again and I will learn to shoot paint. This is very labor intensive work, as the link states if you have time. It doesn't look bad at 10 mph, but close up it is quite fair in appearance.

Quite a few people are impressed that I did this with this method and the results with this process. It is much better than the spray paint the PO did to about 1/2 the car, but I would not brag to anyone this is the quick and cheap fix. It made my car look better, but definetly the results are flawed compared to a spray job.

Your car and your choice but beware.

Lastly, I am not (repeat not) trying to promote this method.

Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:38 pm

The ACE paint is about the same as Tractor Supply paint and John Deere paint. I think that the label says "not for auto refinishing", BUT...I have used the TSC paint for a couple of things with great results. I've used it for toolboxes and such. I know a guy that painted his van with it. No hardener, never washed it, never waxed it. I saw it in a junkyard about 8 years after the paint and it was still holding on, but it was really faded and chalky. I know another guy that used a gallon of the white on his van. He used a cheap grade of reducer and the lowest price NAPA hardener that he could find. His van turned out GREAT. With washing and waxing it even looked good a couple of years later.

I experienced slow drying time. The paint has a lot of mineral spirits in it. I've reduced it with mineral spirits, naptha, enamel reducer, laquer thinner, and once with gasoline. Alcohol and acetone are very fast drying, but I haven't tried those yet. I would like to speed up the drying time. I bet 2 quarts would cover your car plenty when thinned down.

GO FOR IT!!!! & post pics when done.

Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:11 am

I did my 68 bug with the silver. It laid on nice, and covered everything in and out with 4.5 cans. I don't know how well it will hold up, but I plan to do it right next summer. The only problem I had was spattering in the cold air.

Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:00 pm

I'm in the same boat as you. I used it on my '77 Bay Window and it worked out just fine. I used the primer from the same brand as well.

Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:57 am

Many of these are private labels from Valspar..

I'm a fan of Zero Rust for these types of projects.