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Bleech Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:20 am

Wow that is amazing!!! Great work.

Glasser Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:44 am

Bleech from Kelowna! Cool I grew up in Kelowna. Went to RSS.
So I hear BowWow went all water cooled stuff and doesn't sell much air cooled parts any more. Go in their and give Steve hell :lol: (I went to school with him).
Man it is neat seeing someone post from my home town.

..... OH Thanks 8)
You might see this thing in Kelowna, maybe not this year but next year for sure. We holiday there quite often.

Glasser Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:43 pm

Got all my wiring components except the speedo. Hopefully it will arrive this week.
Went with a Painless wire harness and with some modifications it worked great.





I bought a chrome air shroud so will need to get that installed as well.




Glasser Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:50 pm

Worked on it two days straight. AND..................... tonight was the night!!!! Dad and I took it for a blast.






Head lights needed aiming but that wasn't going to stop me.....





It's WAY to low so will need to raised up (dragged a few times) and I need to re jet the carbs. But she's on the road!!!!!

While they say they are never finished the build for this one has come to a close. Any changes I do I will definitely keep you all posted.

Just wanted to thank you all who followed the build. I really enjoyed bringing you all along for the ride. Keep on shifting!!! 8)

Glasser Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:25 am

Got my speedo yesterday! Will hopefully get it installed today.
I still need to find some floor mats etc to give it that "finished " look but I will acquire these parts as I find them. Right now I just want to drive it ALL DAY LONG! 8)

I'll try and get some more finished pictures up soon.

Glasser Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:24 am

Well the Speedo doesn't work :evil: Still playing with it.

So I ripped the engine apart.....................


Then I figured out the speedo doesn't get hooked up back there :?:
So I put it all back together......

Hmmm Something is different. It seems to run OK. Speedo still doesn't work though :cry:

A wise man once told me these things are never done. 8) Money well waisted I think. :D



Back to the Speedo...............................

ManxBug Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:27 am

Yes chrome is totally worth it and according to the street racers guide it adds 10 horse power!

http://ratednfornasty.wordpress.com/2008/05/06/guide-to-how-to-be-a-street-racer/

MURZI Sat Jul 05, 2008 1:13 pm

Brent, I'll take it!!! You take paypal huh???

What A transformation...beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.....

So waht's next? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Glasser Sat Jul 05, 2008 6:14 pm

Quote: Yes chrome is totally worth it and according to the street racers guide it adds 10 horse power!
:lol: I thought I felt a difference 8)

Quote: Brent, I'll take it!!! You take paypal huh???

What A transformation...beautiful, beautiful, beautiful.....

So waht's next?
Thanks Murzi. I'm a pretty happy guy. Still some issues to work out but that is to be expected with a scratch built car I suppose. Most of the trouble right now is with the dual carbs. I just re-jetted them today and took it for a LONG drive. So far so good.

As for what is next my neighbor has a Manx clone and the pan is all cracked up SOOOOOO I'm trying to talk him into doing a Glasser upgrade :wink:
Wont be till the snow flies however.

garbug Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:03 pm

What size tire wheel combo are you running there fellow canadian? And Sweeet ride/build bro.

Hot Air Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:22 am

You might be able to add 10hp if you use a BUD can. I think the light beer might not give the buzz you engine needs.
VERY NICE BUGGY , JOB WELL DONE :P

Glasser Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:25 pm

Quote: What size tire wheel combo are you running there fellow Canadian? And Sweet ride/build bro.

Thank you!
245/60/R15s on the back mounted on an 8" wide rim.
145/65/R15s mounted on a 5" rim on the front (pushing the limits a bit.) The fronts are front Smart Car tires pre 08 (In 08 they now have wider tires front and back). The wider ones would probably fit the 5" rim better... but I haven't had any issues and have "tested" the set up if you know what I mean.

Quote: You might be able to add 10hp if you use a BUD can. I think the light beer might not give the buzz you engine needs. :lol: That might just work :lol:

It's getting cold here. We had a nasty snow storm here this morning but luckily it is all melted already. It wont be long and she will be tucked away for the winter :(
Soon all I will have is some pictures to look at as I wont be able to drive it. :? :( (some shots in Kelowna BC this summer.)






TLHammer Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:32 pm

That looks fantastic! Great build. =D>

Glasser Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:21 pm

Thanks TL. 8)

Rob Stone Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:59 am

Wowsers Brent! Excellent work! I was wondering how that super low stance was going to work with two bodies on board and a tank of gas. Are you planning on simply raising the ride height by adjusting torsion spring locations, or are you planning on leaving it at that height and maybe adding adjustable coilovers, or bags, to stiffen the suspension?

I also love those tail lights! Who would have ever thougt that AMC tail lights could look so cool!

How did you go about shortening you E-brake cables? I am thinking about moving my E-brake back on the tunnel but cringe at the thought of messing with my shiny new cables.

Glasser Mon Oct 20, 2008 10:37 am

Thanks Rob

OK this is where I am at. I got the car running and on the road June 30th with full intension's of doing some "tweaking" to the suspension. I soon realized I was having WAY too much fun and the season is too short up here so wanted to get as much seat time as possible. The front however was too low and was correct after the maiden voyage. It was grounding out so I increased the height by using the adjusters on the front. I also added snubbers (Link/King) and now I have not had any issues on the front end. It takes a pretty good bump to make contact with the snubber. I have drop spinals as well and am running new lowered oil filled shocks. I am pleased with the front set up other than as with any car this low you need to watch your driving style. I'm sure I will get tired of always being on the look out for dips, pot holes, approaching curbs on an angle but for now I'm loving it, the looks and the handling.


Now the rear is a different story. I am not happy with it. Looks cool as hell but it is just sitting on the rear snubbers. The rear snubbers are not cut and are factory height. I found a little trick that took the pounding away as the back was chopping at the snubber. I took my old rubbers from my rear swing plates and put them around the snubber.



This was a temporary way to add more rubber and soften the chopping. It actually works pretty well!
When I put the car together I had no clue what angle to set the rear at, I guessed and basically used ALL my adjustment up to get it at the height it is at now. The car needs to be disassembled and reset. I have full intension's to do so but time has been the enemy and I do not want the car in pieces when I could still be driving it weather permitting. So this winter I will address this.
The ride height in the rear will come up. As it sits right now the tire just makes contact with the fiberglass on a big hard bump so the snubber set up is perfect. But I am already getting tired of the rough ride out back. I put a jack under the car and increased the height about an inch and a half. Still looks pretty cool with some "rake" attitude but not a whole bunch. I'm looking forward to doing the adjustment and seeing what it will ride like. I also think it will launch better being higher in the rear. Right now the front end is trying to lift but the car can't squat in the rear.

I also like the rear lights. I've been told this was the light of choice of the body manufacturer. I am still looking for more info on the body. Not much is know about it other than it was a small operation in central Alberta. The maker of the mold has passed on and the mold is missing, that is about all I know. I have found two other cars so far, that's it.

OK for shortening the ebrake cables and throttle cable for that matter here is what I did. :shock: CAUTION!!! :shock: I will say that right away as I burned myself pretty good. Put the cable in your ground of your wire feed welder clamp and weld right where you want to cut it. The welder will melt the wire in half and also weld the ends together so no fraying. The heat transfers FAST up the cable so DO NOT touch with your hands during the process. Do a few practice cuts/welds to get the hang of it. With the right heat it works great. I used the shortening kit that from what I am hearing isn't so popular but it has been working great for me so far. Take note however that with the shortening kit you may have clearance issues with older ebrake handles. I cut the mounting bracket off of a newer style ebrake handle and welded to my new chrome ebrake handle (can't see it, it is under the boot).
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D2567

Glasser Sun Apr 19, 2009 6:41 pm

Did some "tweaking" to the car. Centered out my steering wheel so It doesn't look like I'm driving around a corner all the time.
I re indexed the rear suspension adjusters. I really messed up when setting them up the first time. I had the adjustment maxed out and it was still sitting on the rear snubbers. So now on the lowest setting I'm on the snubber, a few turns up and I have about three quarters of an inch off the rear snubbers. Wow what a difference in the ride. It amazes me how little suspension movement you need for a smooth ride. It is definitely bouncing off the snubbers on some bumps. When I get tired of it I'll raise it up some more which is now a very easy thing to do with the torsion adjusters indexed properly.
I also added some carpet underlay under the seat covers. These Polly's as most of us know aren't exactly the most comfortable. The underlay helped a lot.
I also raised the front up slightly as well. Lots of construction going on where I live so the added height is a bit of security..... it's still pretty darn low.

The cool thing is the car with the height raised up wants to corner a lot better. Stands to reason with the suspension bottoming out the car just wants to "step out" from under you. Now the car feels like it is leaning over a bit transferring some weight and digging in, cool felling. She also is transfers the weight a lot better on launches.

More tuning and tweaking as she speaks to me, and tells me what she wants. 8)


drclock Sat Jul 18, 2009 7:51 pm

I am in the beginning stages of redoing a PO buggy chassis and a new Berrien body.( I've done 15 speedster replicas, two T buckets and a dozen other replicas to date) Your build was inspiring ......nice job! ~Alan

Glasser Sun Jul 19, 2009 11:15 am

Wow, Thanks Alan. Much appreciated. Always great to hear that.
Good luck with your next build. Keep us posted, unless you already are. Will have to check out your profile.....

The car has been performing great thus far. The transmission is showing its age and that was to be expected as it was a transmission I had rebuilt many many years ago. I had it in my off road rail so it has had a pretty intense life to say the least.
I had it out yesterday to pickup my daughter from summer camp. I was late and flying down some county roads to get there on time. 4000 Rpm at 140 Km/h (87 Mph) for a bit. Didn't think it had it in it. Took a while but the heat started to build so I backed off.....really shouldn't have been doing that in the first place but when you can see darn near to the next province... you get my drift.
These little cars are such a blast!

tropickey Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:44 pm

How much do you charge for chassis fabrication



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