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Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:51 am

[quote="don.ville"][quote="Snoop Bob"] Das Dragon wrote: Snoop Bob wrote: Das Dragon wrote: The t-3 under tins are known to make an upright t-1 run hotter also. Use stock tins.

Seriously...?, Can anyone else confirm this?

I thought everyone knew this by now.

i didnt either. Cant know it all. :)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:17 am

derluftwagen wrote: pyrOman wrote: I used the same 120 on the current 2276 and the difference is between night & day! The power is spread throughout! I've gone from 65mph, loaded and pulling the trailer on a grade, to 80mph without much effort! To say that I'm pretty happy with it is an understatement. Not to mention (as I have already) it runs ultra cool.

Mind sharing your combo on your cool running 2276?

Again? :roll:

Okay, since it isn't politically correct to say "search button" on the new thedrambadotcom! :lol:

Though I did not measure it, the CR is very low since I went with 0.020" more than "standard" deck height. Heads have stock sized valves. Jugs are 94s with Total Seal rings. Cam is a 120 Engle. Solid shaft stock rokers with swivel feet. Extra 1.5 quart sump, full flow, cheap-ass 8-pass cooler, real filter mounted on the craddle over the driver's side swing axle, 3/8" SS braided teflon lines to hook up all of that, and a T-3 stock cooler on modified doghouse. All of that adds up to a 6 quart capacity. 8)

My temps are under 180 constant for the oil and 250 to 275 on the head. Even when pushed hard the oil gets over 200 but never up to 250! The 8-pass cooler sits opposite the battery with an opening under it and an electric fan sucking air out of the engine compartment. This bus is a walkthrough with the spare tire well smack next to the driver's side intake vents. Also, though my home made aluminum tank sits "over" the stock area leaving an "opening" for extra air, I don't particularly agree with the idea of having an opening for air intake on the front tin. :?

Hope that answers your question. :wink:

Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:43 pm

Thanks, I did do a search with your name and 2276 and came up with you mentioning stock size valves, and 120 cam a bunch of times as well as your best of 20 mpg, also mentioned a lot. No specifics came up even though you seem very happy with it.

What modification did you do to your dog house? You are the second person that has mentioned the T3 cooler, does it have more fins or something compared to a regular TI cooler?

Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:23 pm

Yes, it is a fatter stock cooler than a T1, so the doghouse needs to be widened to make it fit the cooler. But again, a properly built engine will run at average temps without any hackage needed to be done to the body and/or the tin. Specially if the engine is going into a bus! No hotrod drag race cams (unless you will be drag racing) and no lightened flywheel either. On that note, did I mention the 5.5 pounds rear pulley also? :?

I prolly have too! :P

I'm positive there's pictures of the doghouse somewhere but it's crunch time to the Classic festivities and as soon as I get out of here (work) I'll be loading the Dormy and heading up to the OC yet again. If I remember next week, I'll try to post them or take some new ones. 8)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:40 pm

Quote: Yes, it is a fatter stock cooler than a T1, so the doghouse needs to be widened to make it fit the cooler.

Think you mean a Type IV cooler. They are wider, Type I and Type III are the same, except the Type III has a threaded hole for the oil pressure sensor, since it lays down instead of standing upright. (Unless you meant the early non-dog house coolers, compared to a Type III)

Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:46 pm

chrisflstf wrote: Quote: Yes, it is a fatter stock cooler than a T1, so the doghouse needs to be widened to make it fit the cooler.

Think you mean a Type IV cooler. They are wider, Type I and Type III are the same, except the Type III has a threaded hole for the oil pressure sensor, since it lays down instead of standing upright. (Unless you meant the early non-dog house coolers, compared to a Type III)

Correct you are! :oops:

Wed Jun 10, 2009 4:31 pm

pyrOman wrote: chrisflstf wrote: Quote: Yes, it is a fatter stock cooler than a T1, so the doghouse needs to be widened to make it fit the cooler.

Think you mean a Type IV cooler. They are wider, Type I and Type III are the same, except the Type III has a threaded hole for the oil pressure sensor, since it lays down instead of standing upright. (Unless you meant the early non-dog house coolers, compared to a Type III)

Correct you are! :oops:

That clears it up a bit. I HAVE heard of that. 8)

Thu Jun 11, 2009 2:20 am

With the 82mm crank, I'm using 92mm pistons in thick-wall cylinders not slippers cause the PO cut for 94mm slugs, so I won't plan to sell the new jugs to any hillbillies soon.. but, that brings up my original ? Since I do a lot of mountain driving in summer and winter with mom and 3 daughters there's a LOT of junk to haul, so power & cool is my target.
Interesting opinions on the T3 uber tin and single 38x38 Weber. I'm after torque not top end hp so the simpler single carb might be ok for now. The last item to collect is a cam to provide decent performance in this strictly street bus without the stress, heat, or high revs of a race cam.
Heck, I'm even considering a stock cam or a 100-110 range with higher ratio rockers.

I LIVED OLD SCHOOL (turned 62 today) although I grew up in SOCAL in a totally car crazy family, with eternally greasy fingernails, I haven't touched a VW engine for about 25 years.. so I'm trying to learn the evolved wisdom from you young guns.

Mom and the girls agreed to drive down to Irvine in Orange County this weekend in our old Plymouth to check out the VW Classic festivities. I hope to buy a cam there. If you see an old fart with in a T-shirt that says, "Barracuda
Yes it's fast
NO you can't drive it"
with 3 blonds and a redhead in tow- it's me.

1967 23-window vert
1965 Ghia
1967 912
1938 SS Jag (kit car)

Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:24 am

Velodad wrote: with 3 blonds and a redhead in tow- it's me.

damn you!!

:lol:

Thu Jun 11, 2009 8:55 pm

Velodad wrote: With the 82mm crank, I'm using 92mm pistons in thick-wall cylinders not slippers cause the PO cut for 94mm slugs, so I won't plan to sell the new jugs to any hillbillies soon.. but, that brings up my original ? Since I do a lot of mountain driving in summer and winter with mom and 3 daughters there's a LOT of junk to haul, so power & cool is my target.
Interesting opinions on the T3 uber tin and single 38x38 Weber. I'm after torque not top end hp so the simpler single carb might be ok for now. The last item to collect is a cam to provide decent performance in this strictly street bus without the stress, heat, or high revs of a race cam.
Heck, I'm even considering a stock cam or a 100-110 range with higher ratio rockers.

I LIVED OLD SCHOOL (turned 62 today) although I grew up in SOCAL in a totally car crazy family, with eternally greasy fingernails, I haven't touched a VW engine for about 25 years.. so I'm trying to learn the evolved wisdom from you young guns.

Mom and the girls agreed to drive down to Irvine in Orange County this weekend in our old Plymouth to check out the VW Classic festivities. I hope to buy a cam there. If you see an old fart with in a T-shirt that says, "Barracuda
Yes it's fast
NO you can't drive it"
with 3 blonds and a redhead in tow- it's me.

1967 23-window vert
1965 Ghia
1967 912
1938 SS Jag (kit car)

Nice. Well at classic and octo, if you see a guy with a shaved head selling tshirts for 5$ next to a blue panel. Thats me. :) There will be plenty of 120 cams for sale there im sure. :wink:

Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:46 pm

Clara wrote:

IMO 19mph/30kpm is pretty slow for 4th gear, even with a split case. But that's what it says is okay. Better shift down if you want to speed up though.

I've always looked at the first series of numbers as a downshift point...
ie when I've slowed from 50mph down to 19mph it's time to downshift into 3rd

edit:
EverettB wrote:
I shift down to 3rd if I slow down enough on a hill to drop to the III mark.
Agreed, for clarification I meant when coming to a stop.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:00 am

Kombi wrote: Clara wrote:

IMO 19mph/30kpm is pretty slow for 4th gear, even with a split case. But that's what it says is okay. Better shift down if you want to speed up though.

I've always looked at the first series of numbers as a downshift point...
ie when I've slowed from 50mph down to 19mph it's time to downshift into 3rd
I shift down to 3rd if I slow down enough on a hill to drop to the III mark.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:31 am

I think this is a great thread and we all agree that some additional cooling is needed.I will post the vent pics and cht data to go with when we are complete.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:19 pm

OK, bus is out of the garage now....

Bought this for $4

Did this:

The hole was already there....

Got baby's glass bottle filled with water (blue tape to avoid spills)

Revved it to 3K while stopped, see the water column go high...

Drove up to 45mph...

positive pressure when at speed. Good :)

Then here is the kicker.....
I was ready to close the book on the testing, then...I realised that with the windows open, the water column moves higher, and with the safari windows open, even higher water column..... :-k

Fri Jun 12, 2009 12:40 pm

Very interesting, are the safaris pressurizing the interior and pushing the water column back to the engine bay?

Also can you cover the air intake you made to see if there is a difference with and without the intake.
Thanks for doing the testing, I should have done all this years ago.

Lou

Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:39 pm

Velodad wrote:

1967 23-window vert
1965 Ghia
1967 912
1938 SS Jag (kit car) What? :?

Fri Jun 12, 2009 3:06 pm

Dave24 wrote: Velodad wrote:

1967 23-window vert
1965 Ghia
1967 912
1938 SS Jag (kit car) What? :?

I saw that too, and I thought WTF? must be a typo, unless he means that it has a ragtop.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 4:13 pm

I learned to drive in my dad's 54 convertible bus with what he called "Alpine windows" in the roof curve. It had back corner windows made of plexiglass. I guess this is what is called a 23 window.

My 67 has steel rear corners, the "Alpine windows" and a sliding cloth top, (vert ie. convertible). As I said, I've been out of VW circles for a couple of decades, even though at least one VW has been in my drive way since 1954. My bus has 25 pieces of glass if you count the front doors as having 3 windows each. But I guess this is called a "21". I learn something new every day.

I need to chase the threads in a Berg cam I have. Anybody know the thread spec. I called Berg but, they are closed till Monday.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 5:18 pm

I learned to drive in my dad's 54 convertable bus with what he called "Alpine windows" in the roof curve. It had back corner windows made of plexiglass. I guess this is what is called a 23 window.

My 67 has steel rear corners, the "Alpine windows" and a sliding cloth top, (vert ie. convertible). As I said, I've been out of VW circles for a couple of decades, even though at least one VW has been in my drive way since 1954. My bus has 25 pieces of glass if you count the front doors as having 3 windows each. But I guess this is called a "21". I learn something new every day.

I need to chase the gear threads in a Berg cam I have. Anybody know the thread spec. I called Berg but, they are closed till Monday.

Fri Jun 12, 2009 5:54 pm

I learned to drive in my dad's 54 convertable bus with what he called "Alpine windows" in the roof curve. It had back corner windows made of plexiglass. I guess this is what is called a 23 window.

My 67 has steel rear corners, the "Alpine windows" and a sliding cloth top, (vert ie. convertible). As I said, I've been out of VW circles for a couple of decades, even though at least one VW has been in my drive way since 1954. My bus has 25 pieces of glass if you count the front doors as having 3 windows each. But I guess this is called a "21". I learn something new every day.

I need to chase the gear threads in a Berg cam I have. Anybody know the thread spec. I called Berg but, they are closed till Monday.