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Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:40 pm

Car paint is a lot more toxic than the rustoleum or boat paint alternative. Plus it's not illegal to sprat boat or rustoleum at home like it is automotive paints with cyanoacrylates, however you spell it. You know the stuff that if it gets in your lungs it will super glue the little sacs that put oxygen in your blood.

I preserved a rust bucket New england bus for a few more years on a low budget. It's rusting from the inside out. I don't have the skills or the time to attempt a professional job at home. I certainly don't have the money to pay for one. Besides I'm driving my Bus, everything works on it except the rear window defroster( thats in the works). I have good heat that has to be turned down when traveling on the highway, fixed all of that with aluminized exhaust pipe. Is that acceptable? Point being you do the best you can with what you have.

Defroster kits
http://www.frostfighter.com/prt26STK.htm
Frost Fighter 2600 Clear View Defrosters

Tue Jan 01, 2008 5:53 pm

vdubyah73 wrote: Car paint is a lot more toxic than the rustoleum or boat paint alternative. Plus it's not illegal to sprat boat or rustoleum at home like it is automotive paints with cyanoacrylates, however you spell it. You know the stuff that if it gets in your lungs it will super glue the little sacs that put oxygen in your blood.

I preserved a rust bucket New england bus for a few more years on a low budget. It's rusting from the inside out. I don't have the skills or the time to attempt a professional job at home. I certainly don't have the money to pay for one. Besides I'm driving my Bus, everything works on it except the rear window defroster( thats in the works). I have good heat that has to be turned down when traveling on the highway, fixed all of that with aluminized exhaust pipe. Is that acceptable? Point being you do the best you can with what you have.

Defroster kits
http://www.frostfighter.com/prt26STK.htm
Frost Fighter 2600 Clear View Defrosters
oh you poor unfortunate dear.
how awful of me to think you could do your bus justice in that brutal northern winters,
i'm sure the laws are just as restrictive as cali but i guess this guy in cali found the time to turn

to this for under 400 total in supplies

again, the loudest excuses are the ones we make to ourselves to justify hack jobs.
:lol:

Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:15 pm

Foxx4086 JHC wrote: vdubyah73 wrote: Car paint is a lot more toxic than the rustoleum or boat paint alternative. Plus it's not illegal to sprat boat or rustoleum at home like it is automotive paints with cyanoacrylates, however you spell it. You know the stuff that if it gets in your lungs it will super glue the little sacs that put oxygen in your blood.

I preserved a rust bucket New england bus for a few more years on a low budget. It's rusting from the inside out. I don't have the skills or the time to attempt a professional job at home. I certainly don't have the money to pay for one. Besides I'm driving my Bus, everything works on it except the rear window defroster( thats in the works). I have good heat that has to be turned down when traveling on the highway, fixed all of that with aluminized exhaust pipe. Is that acceptable? Point being you do the best you can with what you have.

Defroster kits
http://www.frostfighter.com/prt26STK.htm
Frost Fighter 2600 Clear View Defrosters
oh you poor unfortunate dear.
how awful of me to think you could do your bus justice in that brutal northern winters,
i'm sure the laws are just as restrictive as cali but i guess this guy in cali found the time to turn

to this for under 400 total in supplies

again, the loudest excuses are the ones we make to ourselves to justify hack jobs.
:lol:

Looks to me like he had a solid Cali car to start with. My bus had holes in that you could stick a fist through. plus an engine bay fire. If I found a solid foundation I'd wanna do it rite, Do what you can with what you have.

This is mine, I built it out of a 73 Beetle that was my driver, needed both rear quarters replaced. That is over my head skills wise. I did most of the work my self. Cutting, welding, wiring, body and paint ( with automotive paint ) . I didn't build the longblock or bend the tubing for the roll bar and front bumper. everything else was me.

Oh shoot, I'm gonna get chopped now. :lol:

Bill

Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:49 am

Quote: The other problem is you end up with a layer(s) of paint on the vehicle that are NOT compatible with any true automotive paint system and unless it is stripped completely off any primer/sealer/coatings you put on top of it are going to react and cause trouble down the road if you ( or anyone) ever does try and do it "right"

This is going to amount to a lot of prep time and or hassles and or a shitty job if someone does just spray over it at some point.

very true! you also cant sand & buff out the runs, etc. same with poly.

rustoleum is good for only one thing- when you have a shitty bus that must look better and it doesnt deserve the work, and/or you cant afford spray equipment. if you have the spray equipment, as the OP does, rustoleum is the wrong choice.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:33 am

dansvans wrote: Quote: The other problem is you end up with a layer(s) of paint on the vehicle that are NOT compatible with any true automotive paint system and unless it is stripped completely off any primer/sealer/coatings you put on top of it are going to react and cause trouble down the road if you ( or anyone) ever does try and do it "right"

This is going to amount to a lot of prep time and or hassles and or a shitty job if someone does just spray over it at some point.

very true! you also cant sand & buff out the runs, etc. same with poly.

rustoleum is good for only one thing- when you have a shitty bus that must look better and it doesnt deserve the work, and/or you cant afford spray equipment. if you have the spray equipment, as the OP does, rustoleum is the wrong choice.

That nails it Dan... after reading all of this again and having the thread cleaned so it can stay... I would say that there are two different schools of thought and both need to be respected.

The owner of any vehicle is free to make the choice to do what ever... but many who know better do not suggest using non auto grade paints to paint said vehicle for reasons sprinkled through the posts.

However, I will agree that if the bus is an overly rusty POS body that runs and is mechanically capable of getting around for a few more years, and will likely never undergo any kind of major rust repairs and tons of hours of body work massage to be made into a SOLID vehicle again... then I can see where using the inferior and much cheaper paint and less technical ( read rollor) methods of application might not be such a bad thing for said vehicle and owner's wallet :D :wink:

The definition of a "too rusty" project is of course open to interpretation
and no doubt will change as these buses get older and older and the supply dries up.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:36 am

vdubyah73 wrote: Car paint is a lot more toxic than the rustoleum or boat paint alternative. Plus it's not illegal to sprat boat or rustoleum at home like it is automotive paints with cyanoacrylates, however you spell it. You know the stuff that if it gets in your lungs it will super glue the little sacs that put oxygen in your blood.
<snip>
Is that acceptable? Point being you do the best you can with what you have.

Not all auto paint is so dangerous. It is just the modern ones that have poly-isos in them.
Traditional auto paints still have solvents and you should wear some protection, but it is the same solvents as Rustoleum.
These paint would include alkyd enamel, acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer.
Acrylic enamel might be the best. It drys fast, so will reduce the danger of bugs and dust.
I've painted a few cars in my shop and 20 years later find VW parts with red paint on them.
There are some much more reasonably priced paint lines out there, perhaps 1/3 the price of Dupont/ Ditzler/ SW/ RM or Sikkens or Glasso. The last two are VERY expensive.
I'm not trying to dissuade you from trying it yourself. It's not like your effort will be wasted. The real payoff will be in the increased knowledge and skill you gain. The shiny new paint job will just be a bonus.
As I said earlier, there is a lot of paint wasted. I have about 4 gallons of new auto paint I bought and then the project never happened. I'm sure every body shop has similar stuff sitting around.
No doubt you could do all the prep at home, then get some local shop to just apply the paint. If they have any suitable colors laying around, I'm sure they would be glad to sell them to you at a better price, too.
That's the problem, the left over paint usually is not the right color.
So, if you are looking at spending $40 for Rustoleum or $60 for discount auto paint, it's not a difficult decision. Spending $500 for premium materials would be out of the question.
You just need to choose your battles.
Good luck, let us know how it comes out.
Al

Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:48 am

One more thing and this should be at the top of everyone's list. Auto paint has lead in it, especially red colors. The greatest danger is not when you spray it, but rather when you sand it or remove it. THE PAINT THAT IS ALREADY ON IT!
I've seen little kids helping SAND their dad's cars. Lead paint exposure kills brain cells in children below the age of 10 or so.
So this means: no children around the job and clean up the site very thoroughly including washing down the floor and washing your clothes before exposing your family to the dust.
Pets can get hurt too. One of my favorite house cats went blind, I'm sure from being around when we stripped the woodwork of our house. Pets can be replaced, a brain damaged child would be an horrific price to pay for a shiny car.
Al

Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:12 pm

I sprayed this with rustoleum this summer. I thinned it about 60/40 with acetone instead of mineral spirits to get a quicker dry time. I sprayed it with a normal HVLP sprayer and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'd say go for it!

Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:18 pm

69doublecab wrote: One more thing and this should be at the top of everyone's list. Auto paint has lead in it, especially red colors. The greatest danger is not when you spray it, but rather when you sand it or remove it. THE PAINT THAT IS ALREADY ON IT!
I've seen little kids helping SAND their dad's cars. Lead paint exposure kills brain cells in children below the age of 10 or so.
So this means: no children around the job and clean up the site very thoroughly including washing down the floor and washing your clothes before exposing your family to the dust.
Pets can get hurt too. One of my favorite house cats went blind, I'm sure from being around when we stripped the woodwork of our house. Pets can be replaced, a brain damaged child would be an horrific price to pay for a shiny car.
Al

Thank you so much for posting this important reminder.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:23 pm

Dont use spray cans.
read the lable and thin 1:1 with mineral spirits. Its oil based.
HVLP gun will be fine, rustolum has a "laying out effect" that is nice.
Wet sand between coats.
and scroll down on this link and check it out it is super informitive.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?C...1&vc=1

and this one

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

I am doing my 70 beetle and my 69 bus this way.
Color is limited but your olny going to spend $50 bucks.
Go for it!

hope that helps.
Justin

Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:25 pm

Doc1982 wrote:

I sprayed this with rustoleum this summer.

I sprayed this with Nason single stage this summer. Total paint supplies ran about $300 but I didn't shop around (I wasn't paying for it)... This was my first paint job and I'm happy with how it turned out... As I stated previously, isn't there a false economy in saving $250 now for a finish that won't keep its gloss as well, will not last as long, and will mean a lot more work down the road? Not to mention there is an obvious difference in the quality of the finish.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:41 pm

one last thing, rustoleum takes weeks to harden fully, and even then you will prolly be able to scratch it off with a fingernail. but it's your choice.
the pity is the people that use rustoleum could of did better by using better paint.
this was under 200,in the sun and in my backyard with PPG Omni.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:04 pm

Quote: That nails it Dan... after reading all of this again and having the thread cleaned so it can stay... I would say that there are two different schools of thought and both need to be respected.

oops, hope i wasnt disrespectful. i should have put the IMO in there...

Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:38 pm

Great advice, I realize I definitely am doing this wrong. Oops! Wish I had gotten this help earlier, I asked in the "proper" forum and didn't get any help. I've gotta get something on it before going back to school, so it's rattle cans for now, and I"ll get some proper paint probably in the summer & fix it.
Thanks again!

Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:41 pm

dansvans wrote: Quote: That nails it Dan... after reading all of this again and having the thread cleaned so it can stay... I would say that there are two different schools of thought and both need to be respected.

oops, hope i wasnt disrespectful. i should have put the IMO in there...

I meant that as you.... "hit the nail on the head" with this statement...

Quote: rustoleum is good for only one thing- when you have a shitty bus that must look better and it doesnt deserve the work

Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:42 pm

Quote: so it's rattle cans for now, and I"ll get some proper paint probably in the summer & fix it.

you need to read keifernets (first) post again... once you paint it with rustoleum, the "proper" paint is chemically incompatible, so cannot be applied on top of it. whatever you do now is what you will have to live with unless you want to get into a high dollar stripping job later down the road

Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:26 pm

agreendaya wrote: Great advice, I realize I definitely am doing this wrong. Oops! Wish I had gotten this help earlier, I asked in the "proper" forum and didn't get any help. I've gotta get something on it before going back to school, so it's rattle cans for now, and I"ll get some proper paint probably in the summer & fix it.
Thanks again!
all i saw was your first post saying you knew no one liked it, but was gonna paint your bus in rustoleum and to deal with it. so i did.
you might not get an answer all the time on a subject, some people including me would of suggested to use the Search button as the topic has been hit on quite a few times. Ebay has deals on auto paint all the time,.i would stick with single stage and keep looking. check your local auto paint jobber too as they have "mistints" and sell them cheap.

Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:38 pm

What about the Van and Truck paint that WalMart sells in the spray cans? Is that actually Auto paint? I was wondering about that stuff. If it is you could probably use it as a temp fix and not have to sand all of it back off like Rustol. Just a thought.

Geno :D

Thu Jan 03, 2008 12:14 am

dansvans wrote: Quote: so it's rattle cans for now, and I"ll get some proper paint probably in the summer & fix it.

you need to read keifernets (first) post again... once you paint it with rustoleum, the "proper" paint is chemically incompatible, so cannot be applied on top of it. whatever you do now is what you will have to live with unless you want to get into a high dollar stripping job later down the road
Also look into what auto paint used to be... It was acrylic/ Enamel JUST LIKE RUSTOLEUM! the newer paints just have more additives like the PPG products. If you are going to repaint in the future just go to your local paint store and get a gallon of primer sealer and use that. then all your body filler and other work will be sealed. That way you wont take any steps backwards. OR, finnish your project with acrylic/ enamel paint when you finalize it down the road.
The real key is knowing what the end result is. The rest is mapping out the right steps to get there without backtracking.
ex: like putting on new door seals then painting, it wouldnt make sense to do it that way.
Justin

Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:02 am

J-Gaz. wrote: dansvans wrote: Quote: so it's rattle cans for now, and I"ll get some proper paint probably in the summer & fix it.

you need to read keifernets (first) post again... once you paint it with rustoleum, the "proper" paint is chemically incompatible, so cannot be applied on top of it. whatever you do now is what you will have to live with unless you want to get into a high dollar stripping job later down the road
Also look into what auto paint used to be... It was acrylic/ Enamel JUST LIKE RUSTOLEUM! the newer paints just have more additives like the PPG products. If you are going to repaint in the future just go to your local paint store and get a gallon of primer sealer and use that. then all your body filler and other work will be sealed. That way you wont take any steps backwards. OR, finnish your project with acrylic/ enamel paint when you finalize it down the road.
The real key is knowing what the end result is. The rest is mapping out the right steps to get there without backtracking.
ex: like putting on new door seals then painting, it wouldnt make sense to do it that way.
Justin

There are different types of "acrylic enamel" as you put it... and mineral spirit based rustoelum is not compatable with auto grade materials.

Some may have indeed thinned it with gasoline or acetone or piss for all I know works too... but it is soft/rubbery and other solvents used in real auto paint will cause it to bubble and lift and or craze and all kinds of nasty reactions you don't want under your primer or paint.

Ever spray any real auto paint over crap paint like rustoleum? or seen paint jobs where incompatable materials were used? Ask the local paint supplier about it. Ask them if you can shoot over old house paint and or rustoleum job... They probably won't laugh as they are sick of hearing the question too :lol:

And to the post above... the Duplicolor Truck and Van paint is the closest thing to real auto grade paint in a can... I have used it on rims many times and a few times for some spot repair on some old American iron/beater/work trucks to keep some rust down.