TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: Upper control arm bushing failure (pictures) Page: Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 14, 15, 16
mikemtnbike Fri Oct 09, 2020 1:35 pm

MarkWard wrote: Contact Christopher at T3 Technique. He lists the bolts on his website. Get the bolts and carefully cut the control arm free with a sawzall. Be careful not to cut the arm or the chassis. Iím fairly certain the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeves not the chassis. Once you have the arm cut free, you can press the bushings out of the control arm. Press in new ones. Hopefully the remaining piece of bolt comes out of the chassis.

Freeing up frozen items usually takes a lot of heat. I would discourage trying to use a torch to free up the bolt especially on a 2wd. The fuel tank is right there. Good luck.

Buy the expensive sawzall blade- the one that costs 12 dollars, not the 3 that cost 15 dollars. I burned through the 3 cutting out 2 bolts, each took waaaay too long, then bought the 12 dollar one. The remaining bolts each took less than 30 seconds and the 12 dollar blade still has lots of life.

therastavan Sat Oct 10, 2020 8:53 pm

MarkWard wrote: Contact Christopher at T3 Technique. He lists the bolts on his website. Get the bolts and carefully cut the control arm free with a sawzall. Be careful not to cut the arm or the chassis. Iím fairly certain the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeves not the chassis. Once you have the arm cut free, you can press the bushings out of the control arm. Press in new ones. Hopefully the remaining piece of bolt comes out of the chassis.

Freeing up frozen items usually takes a lot of heat. I would discourage trying to use a torch to free up the bolt especially on a 2wd. The fuel tank is right there. Good luck. thanks!

therastavan Fri Oct 16, 2020 9:16 am

mikemtnbike wrote: MarkWard wrote: Contact Christopher at T3 Technique. He lists the bolts on his website. Get the bolts and carefully cut the control arm free with a sawzall. Be careful not to cut the arm or the chassis. Iím fairly certain the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeves not the chassis. Once you have the arm cut free, you can press the bushings out of the control arm. Press in new ones. Hopefully the remaining piece of bolt comes out of the chassis.

Freeing up frozen items usually takes a lot of heat. I would discourage trying to use a torch to free up the bolt especially on a 2wd. The fuel tank is right there. Good luck.

Buy the expensive sawzall blade- the one that costs 12 dollars, not the 3 that cost 15 dollars. I burned through the 3 cutting out 2 bolts, each took waaaay too long, then bought the 12 dollar one. The remaining bolts each took less than 30 seconds and the 12 dollar blade still has lots of life.
Where exactly did you cut? I do not mind cutting the arm as I have a new one ready to go.

mikemtnbike Fri Oct 16, 2020 9:36 am

therastavan wrote: mikemtnbike wrote: MarkWard wrote: Contact Christopher at T3 Technique. He lists the bolts on his website. Get the bolts and carefully cut the control arm free with a sawzall. Be careful not to cut the arm or the chassis. Iím fairly certain the bolt is seized to the bushing sleeves not the chassis. Once you have the arm cut free, you can press the bushings out of the control arm. Press in new ones. Hopefully the remaining piece of bolt comes out of the chassis.

Freeing up frozen items usually takes a lot of heat. I would discourage trying to use a torch to free up the bolt especially on a 2wd. The fuel tank is right there. Good luck.

Buy the expensive sawzall blade- the one that costs 12 dollars, not the 3 that cost 15 dollars. I burned through the 3 cutting out 2 bolts, each took waaaay too long, then bought the 12 dollar one. The remaining bolts each took less than 30 seconds and the 12 dollar blade still has lots of life.
Where exactly did you cut? I do not mind cutting the arm as I have a new one ready to go.

First, I should clarify- to be more specific, the total # of bolts I was cutting out included the lower control arm bolts, some front, all rear.

I had to cut out one upper control arm bolt, it was seized to the bushings.

There are good pictures in this thread of the same place I cut.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20

Busfixer Fri Oct 23, 2020 8:24 am

Question: I have a set of Syncro upper control arms and GoWesty ball joint spacers. Will the Syncro control arms fit a late model 2wd? I suspect no as the ball joint connection looks offset but thought I would ask my fellow Vanagon experts before springing for Burleyís UCAís.

Thanks, Busfixer

ALIKA T3 Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:11 am

No, you accurately inspected both parts ;)

ZsZ Tue Apr 06, 2021 5:05 am

The Lemforder squeaks like crazy. Lasted half a year without any real mileage :(

ALIKA T3 Tue Apr 06, 2021 11:23 pm

Next time drill and add a zerk fitting to grease them prior to mounting.
Or go PU and forget about it....

ZsZ Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:27 am

ALIKA T3 wrote: Next time drill and add a zerk fitting to grease them prior to mounting.
Or go PU and forget about it....

then I will need a grease gun and some rubber grease too ;)

I think my control arm is bent. There was quite a gap between the washer and the bushing before I have tightened the bolt. I bought a set of used ones to ease the change so I can compare.
The PU is not road legal here unfortunately.

MarkWard Wed Apr 07, 2021 3:55 am

There are different thickness washers available to adjust that gap. 3 thicknesses that give you quite a few combinations.

ALIKA T3 Wed Apr 07, 2021 11:52 am

ZsZ wrote: ALIKA T3 wrote: Next time drill and add a zerk fitting to grease them prior to mounting.
Or go PU and forget about it....

then I will need a grease gun and some rubber grease too ;)

I think my control arm is bent. There was quite a gap between the washer and the bushing before I have tightened the bolt. I bought a set of used ones to ease the change so I can compare.
The PU is not road legal here unfortunately.

The 2WD arm can compress, unlike the Syncro arm.

Powerflex is now making a stealth line, all black, just saying 😁😁

ZsZ Wed Apr 07, 2021 12:14 pm

ALIKA T3 wrote: ZsZ wrote: ALIKA T3 wrote: Next time drill and add a zerk fitting to grease them prior to mounting.
Or go PU and forget about it....

then I will need a grease gun and some rubber grease too ;)

I think my control arm is bent. There was quite a gap between the washer and the bushing before I have tightened the bolt. I bought a set of used ones to ease the change so I can compare.
The PU is not road legal here unfortunately.

The 2WD arm can compress, unlike the Syncro arm.

Powerflex is now making a stealth line, all black, just saying 😁😁

Yes it can compress, but it adds more tension to the bushing when the gap is too big. I had around 5mm gap with the Lemforder and a bit less with the Meyle and the Febi before as I remember.

I have read some topics about Powerflex UCAB where the conclusion was they are softer than the OE style. But I am aware of the Powerflex heritage bushigs which are black, just not saw them yet in real.



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group