oldmanmark |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:19 am |
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ok, i got one coat on my fresh pans,frame last summer. first time i used the stuff. ran out of time had to leave and returned a week later. i want a second coat on bottom. got all the por 15 prep products. how would you all prep and apply? waiting for winter to pass. still just pans/frame. easy to flip over. |
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Mike Fisher |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:36 am |
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I'd prolly just blow it off w/air and wipe w/towel? |
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pachood |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:19 am |
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I would get rid of the dust, rescuff everything with a scotchbrite, then I would clean everything well with a wax and greese remover.
You could probably contact your salesman for his best suggestion. |
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oldmanmark |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:24 am |
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i thooght a scuffing and cleaning with something(marine clean ) would be the route to go. its all new to me. i'll contact the por people for sure. |
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Mike Fisher |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:10 pm |
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The sooner the better as far as car builds go! :wink: |
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T8kitease |
Wed Jan 16, 2008 1:33 pm |
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Wet sand with 600 grit sand paper and recoat. Thats off there instructional paperwork. Just did mine on tuesday.[/img] |
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oldmanmark |
Thu Jan 17, 2008 12:26 am |
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T8kitease, howd it turn out?. is it glossy,semi,or dull and cured like its supposed to? you just wet sanded with 600 wiped it clean and painted? no cleaner? sounds good. |
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T8kitease |
Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:55 am |
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Mark, Yep after the sanding just wiped it off and blew it off with the air compressor. Just make sure your temp is above 50 degrees, and humidity below 80%. I had to keep the garage warm with a portable heater. The finish is like a mirror, and as of now is rock solid. I did get some pin hole bubbles in the first coat here and there. But still looks great n will be covered by undercoating and carpet. Hope this helps. |
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oldmanmark |
Thu Jan 17, 2008 12:37 pm |
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very good T8,thats the way i thought it would happen. good to know it is 'The Way' it works. similar situation,winter now,pole barn. heater to small . have to wait till spring or unusuall warm spell. thanks,mark. |
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Campy |
Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:01 am |
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POR-15 has to have a rough, clean surface to stick really well. It goes on thick and flows out well so think about using 220 grit sandpaper to scuff it up. |
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Bugs'n'Pugs |
Sat Feb 09, 2008 4:29 pm |
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oldmanmark wrote: ok, i got one coat on my fresh pans,frame last summer. first time i used the stuff. ran out of time had to leave and returned a week later. i want a second coat on bottom. got all the por 15 prep products. how would you all prep and apply? waiting for winter to pass. still just pans/frame. easy to flip over.
You might give this a try:
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SEP&dept=3
Quote: In response to many customer inquiries requesting a quick drying and easy-to-apply coating which enables a restorer to quickly topcoat POR-15® and other basecoats, we have developed POR-15® Self-Etching Primer.
With this product, you can even topcoat POR-15® that?s been in place for months or years.
POR-15® Self-Etching Primer is NOT a high-build primer, like POR-15?s TIECOAT PRIMER, but it can be sprayed or brushed on almost any painted surface and can be topcoated in 15 - 30 minutes. It bonds incredibly well to POR-15® Rust Preventive Paint, and all topcoats bond incredibly well to POR-15® Self-Etching Primer. It can be sanded lightly, and, if desired, multiple coats may be applied.
We strongly recommend this fine product, which we sell with our unconditional money-back guarantee of satisfaction. It is available in pints, quarts, and gallons as well as a large aerosol spray (15 ounces). In situations where you are topcoating a very old POR-15® finish, we first recommend a light sanding with any 280 to 320 grit paper. |
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