TheSamba.com :: View topic - Do i need anything else to get my car going?

Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:42 pm

Ok i have a 1970 beetle convertible, when i bought it it had been sitting in a garage for 10 years, and was never driven during that time. Here is what i am ordering for it.

Bosch ignition wire set
bosch blue coil
generator belt
front rubber brake hoses
front brake hardware kit
front wheel cylinders
rear metal brake lines ( the ones that are in between the wheel cylinder and rubber hose)
Shift boot
Pedal pads
carpet
shift rod bushing.

I already have new rear wheel cylinders, rear rubber brake hoses, rear brake hardware kit, complete engine gasket set, and a new fuel sender.

So im wondering what else i should replace before making it my daily driver next spring? Should i replace the cap, rotor, points and condensor?

Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:58 pm

It all depends on the condition of everything. Do you have photos? One thing I'd recommend it replacing the fuel lines with the braided German ones, and moving the in-line fuel filter to the underside of the car outta the engine compartment. See the "sticky" discussion on Beetle fires. The other thing you will want to check out are if the rubber seals are still good. There is all kinds of rubber all over your car - windows, gaskets for handles, lights, doors, etc. One of the ones that is essential is the engine-to-body seal, and it is often overlooked. That one keeps the "bad air" from under the car out of the engine compartment. Also, the hood and trunk seals, while appearing pretty benign, also serve an important function as well. Lucky for you, all of this stuff is readily available from a number of vendors. Have fun, and good luck!

Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:00 pm

I will replace the fuel line with the german style line and move the fuel filter under the gas tank. And probably replace all the light bulbs. Other than that is that about all i need for the mechanicals part?

Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:25 pm

I'd double-check all of your fuses, too. If you have the time, it doesn't hurt to replace them all...they're cheap. Make sure they are all there, too! Don't forget to make sure the pressure is correct in your tires, too.

Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:53 pm

Quote: I will replace the fuel line with the german style line and move the fuel filter under the gas tank.

Ok - Flushed out the gas tank? Cleaned out the carbs? Make sure that replace EVERY piece of flexible fuel line - I would suggest putting a second temporary fuel filter at the carb until you are sure all of the crap is out of the fuel lines and fuel pump. As far as primary filter location, I like above the rear axle - easier to change, but that is a personal preference.

In all seriousness, I would do the points and condenser (or replace them with a Pertronix or Compufire - You have done pretty much everything else. Oh - Adjust the valves!

Also, I would change the oil again after maybe 100 miles or so. Then you'll start finding other stuff that needs attention. Watch for any puddles.

Fri Jan 18, 2008 2:07 pm

I will clean the carb and replace all the gaskets.

Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:02 pm

OK. Now the hardest part of all to find - you need to get one of those little doggies with the head that bobbles up and down and afix it to your rear dash panel. Once you got that, you're ready for the road! :lol:

Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:08 pm

Beaboy wrote: OK. Now the hardest part of all to find - you need to get one of those little doggies with the head that bobbles up and down and afix it to your rear dash panel. Once you got that, you're ready for the road! :lol:

As a Vanagon and Bus owner too, I have to disagree. I strongly suggest a hula-girl over a bobble-head dog. :P

Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:04 pm

Beaboy wrote: OK. Now the hardest part of all to find - you need to get one of those little doggies with the head that bobbles up and down and afix it to your rear dash panel. Once you got that, you're ready for the road! :lol: Not so simple. Even if you could find one.
As there is no "rear dash panel" on a convertible...

So, what are some other options for installing the doggie on these Bugs?

Fri Jan 18, 2008 6:09 pm

and don't forget the flower and peace sign decals

Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:45 pm

Going back to filter under tank as mentioned earlier - just read a post that reminded me why I don't like putting it there. Pop the filter off and gas is pouring all over the place. Above the rear axle is closer to the engine, but far enough forward so its not as much of a hazard - but its also much easier to replace and stillnot get a gas bathe when doing it.

Sat Jan 19, 2008 4:50 pm

If the bug is new to you, change the clutch cable and throttle cable with new German made ones. Change the bowden tube too. Cheap insurance for you. You need to watch for oil leaks especially the front main seal behind the flywheel. They tend to harden after sitting for a long time.

Finally, as mentioned above, due a full tune up and then make sure your timing is set for the distributor you have in the engine.

Good luck.

Sat Jan 19, 2008 6:05 pm

Are the throttle and clutch cables from cip1 good quality? As i said i will be putting all new gaskets in the engine including the man seal.

Is this a good bowden tube? http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D311%2D721%2D361

How hard is it to change? Would it be easier with the engine out of the car?

Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:24 pm

Lets get your list reigned in a bit LOL - technically you can go through the car from one end to another - and if you have the time and money to replace everything, then what the hell, do it.

If you don't have both, then get through what all you really need to do to make it safe and reasonably reliable. It's an old car - you will always have a to do list.

#1 Don't catch fire or run out of gas - already covered.
#2 Stopping is a good thing - already covered.
#3 Not damaging engine and running nicely - Covered.
#4 Lubricating cables is a good idea. Do you need to replace them? I wouldn't unless there was evidence of a problem - but if you have the time and money, go for it.
#5 All lights working, things like that are important.
#6 Age/dry rot cracks on tires - Having tires that don't fall apart is mandatory.

Beyond that - pick whatever is the biggest issue at the moment and deal with it - there will usually be something.

Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:48 pm

rustfree1967bug wrote: Are the throttle and clutch cables from cip1 good quality? As i said i will be putting all new gaskets in the engine including the man seal.

Is this a good bowden tube? http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D311%2D721%2D361

How hard is it to change? Would it be easier with the engine out of the car?

Go to www.wolfsburgwest.com

They sell good German cables and the German bowden tube. It's worth a few dollars more vs. the Brazilian one. They are not hard to install and certainly would be easier if you have the engine out.
When I bought my 67 bug a couple of years ago, I pulled the clutch cable out and it was original and about to fail due to being very frayed. The other issue was the hook that the eye of the cable hooks to on the cluthc pedal. It was about to fail. It was about all the way worn through. So for less than $50 dollars I replaced all those parts which made the clutch operation smoother too. What does it cost to have your car towed these days?
There is a post from a few months ago that listed the top 10 things that cause VW break downs leaving you on the side of the road. The clutch cable and throttle cables were very prevalent on that list.