TheSamba.com :: View topic - Finally getting started

Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:32 am

I was finally sucessful in securing a workable pan to start my project, third time is a charm.

Couple of quick questions. It has the original seat mounting guides still attached. Is there any reason I would want to keep these in there? Otherwise I am planning on removing them, and is there any easy way to remove them? I need to do some work to the rear area of the pans also, so maybe the answer is to just cut them out.

Secondly, the pan still has the brackets for the jack to go in. There isn't any reason for me to leave them in place is there? I am surprised they were not already removed when the pan was shortened.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:22 am

Depends on what seats you are using. If you are using stock beetle seats or seats that can use the stock seat frame, then leave the rails and shorten the seat frames. http://www.meyersmanx.com/garage/garage_seats.htm
If you are using something else, you may want to remove the rails by drilling out the spot welds. Be careful though as the sheet metal is pretty thin and can actually tear. You may also have some small holes to fill.

As far as the jacking points, the chassis will look cleaner without them. I think most of us don't carry a spare and just use a hydraulic jack at the house.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:22 am

There is no reason to keep the seat tracks if you are going to use a different seat mounting system. I don't know of an easy way to get rid of them, as I made my own seat mounts that use them.

I got rid of the stock jack points on my pan because they would interfere with the side pods. I just use a scissor jack from a Toyota, so there's no need to have them. A modified bumper jack from an older American car is an even better idea for off-road.

Lee

Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:27 am

I have used a cut off wheel to remove the seat guides leaving the section that attaches to your pan intact. As Greenmanx stated, they rip very easily and trimming them flush will prevent that.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:14 am

As I also have a motorcycle, my bike jack [ lift ] works great on the buggy. It was a god-send when I pulled the engine to reseal the trans.
I have a floor jack, but use the cycle jack most of the time.
My seat tracks are still in the pans as I used the fiberglass racing style buckets, but they won't be in there much longer, so I'll be getting those tracks out of there soon.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:27 am

Next question, I see many references to using bed liner on the bottom of the pan, but I've also seen references to not doing that as it encourages rust.

What is recommended?

Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:40 am

Herculiner just about everywhere. Love the stuff.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 3:37 pm

Sweet diamond plate. Looks good. What's the master cylinder from? Is it a dual? I need to change from a single to dual but I would like the reservoir setting on top like that one.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 4:22 pm

Bob,
Search these forums for "volvo reservoir". It will have all your answers.

Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:51 pm

I used this way cooler alloy brake reseviour. It screws onto the master cylinder.

Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:45 am

Way cooler but way dangerouser. :shock:

Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:49 am

Yep. I like that alloy reservoir, but it appears to be a single master cylinder. I want to convert mine to a dual that way if I blow a wheel cylinder, I won't lose all the brakes.
It's been recommended that I stay with the German dual master cyclinder. Besides VW, who has these? What year VW was the dual used on? "Inquiring minds want to know." [ mine ]
Thanks, fellers.

Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:08 am

"What year VW was the dual used on?"

From '67 on in the United States.

Lee

Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:46 pm

I've blown a brake line on an 80's Honda and still lost my brakes. If your pedal goes to the floor, pull the ebrake and pull over.

Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:35 pm

ManxBug wrote: I've blown a brake line on an 80's Honda and still lost my brakes. If your pedal goes to the floor, pull the ebrake and pull over.

Got some laugh reading that!

2 years ago I was the flagger at pit entrance during the Montreal F1 grandprix. During a Honda support race, I was presented with a Civic entering pitlane at well over 160kph with a blown brake line. The yellow flag did not slow him down! Almost crapped my pants that day.

Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:04 pm

That's my other problem. Got no e-brake. It's a 64 pan, but has a 70's irs set-up for the rear. I have no lever, cables, etc and I've not had the rear drums off yet. I have no idea if the parts to hook the cables to are in the brake assemblies.
Little-by-little, I'm getting my Manx like I want it.

Wed Mar 05, 2008 7:28 am

if you look on speedsterowners.com, under the LIBRARY tab they have the build manuals for differnt types of speedster kit cars, although you have a manx the pan shortening is the same procedure. Check out the CMC manual, it gives step by step instructions and advice on how to shorten the pan correctly. Keep in mind that a speedsster only was 10 5/8" shorter and buggies are more like 13 or 14 inches depending on maker. As far as the ebrake goes, you really need one, fiberglass cars although awesome provide little protection to the occupants, the time spent hooking up cable ebrakes may save the lives of you or loved ones. A 64 pan should have the ebrake lever, if it doesn't when you shorten it you can weld on what you need. If the car is swingaxle or IRS, the ebrake is the same, when you cut open the tunnel be careful not to butcher the guide tubes for the ebrake, clutch cable, throttle cable, and the shifter rod. You probably won't need the heater boxes so those guide tubes aren'y important. There is also the factory fuel line in there so watch for fire. I'm stupid when it comes to computers and don't know how to post a picture but I have a speedster with the tunnel cut open and inside exposed that I could send you pictures of if you think it would help. Good luck with your project!!!!!

Wed Mar 05, 2008 8:50 am

Bob,
Are you saying that the ebrake brake has been completely
removed? Bracket and everything?

Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:48 pm

I used a "Sawz all" on those pesky OEM seat tracks.Made short work of them.I used the roll on Herculiner kit for the floors and exterior "sides" of the body. Tough and looks good.