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Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:54 am

What temperture does the 3m 90 spray adhesive best cure at??

basically im looking to install my carpet but it is going to be 40-50 degrees at most of the time the next couple of weeks....

i tried using it for something small at 30-40 degrees and it wouldnt dry....

just wondering what you guys have for suggestions and maybe some advice....

Thanks ....

oh and here is the stuff im using... $14 bucks a can but great stuff when warm out....

Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:12 pm

If you got one of my carpets you would not need that.

Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:17 pm

yea ur right however... your carpet wouldnt do the "Bed" part of my buggy or the sides of the interior..... so i decided to get some carpet and custom cut each piece.... it is custom then.....

however i agree your stuff is quality.... ok there lol....

Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:49 pm

street only? i would velcro it down rather than spray if you plan of going offroad.

Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:52 pm

yea street only.... i really would never consider taking this one offroad... :? :? thats what my jeep cherokee project is for... ( the project after i finish this buggy although it will never be done i should have said driveable... lol

Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:31 pm

presser sensitive double sided tape like duct tape but sticky 2 sides.
works great on carpet at tradeshows with 100's of people walking on it.
and if it don't work just peel it off.

Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:40 pm

I agree with the rest,tape it down so it can be removed.You never know when you will be caught in a non-forecasted rain storm!!! :lol:

Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:51 pm

I've never trusted velcro (except on shoes :lol: ).
I have a truck style too. If I was going to use carpet,
I think I would use big snaps. Cut the carpet to shape,
then have the edges bound. I think that I'll probably use
would and metal strips like an old truck on mine. You
could also use bed liner.

Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:27 pm

well i already strayed the bed part and i think it turned out nice... i am going to continue to do the same for the rest of the buggy... i suppose i will have a look at the 3m website... (forgot to before asking) to see what the correct temperature is.... i couldnt find it on the can itself....

nice part is that we are getting a heat wave of 50 degree weather... fuck ya... lol :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: i going to get something done maybe not all of the carpet but atleast something....

btw thanks for the ideas but its not the direction im going in...

Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:59 am

The best thing to do is go get some contact cement from Home Depot. You can brush it on or spray it on with a gun. The aerosols are really not suited for that. They tend to release when they get hot. I only use the stuff for temporary tacking. I have a glue pot for everything else.

Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:22 am

The 50 degree temps should be OK. Just make sure to spray the backside of the carpet and the part your sticking it to and let it tack up for a minute or two before sticking together.

Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:26 am

ummmm... contact cement... never thought about that.... i might just try that... im sure its cheaper and if it works better........ Thanks for the idea.....

and you think 47-49 degrees will be ok..... thats at the high for the next couple of days....

Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:47 am

apply the contact cement to both the carpet and where you are installing it. let it dry untill its tacky then install. Just like putting on formica. It will take a little longer to dry to tacky but it should work.

Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:52 am

bpritchert87 wrote: ummmm... contact cement... never thought about that.... i might just try that... im sure its cheaper and if it works better........ Thanks for the idea.....

and you think 47-49 degrees will be ok..... thats at the high for the next couple of days....

Its the only way you should go. I installed a carpet ounce, I know.

Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:12 am

kustoms wrote: bpritchert87 wrote: ummmm... contact cement... never thought about that.... i might just try that... im sure its cheaper and if it works better........ Thanks for the idea.....

and you think 47-49 degrees will be ok..... thats at the high for the next couple of days....

Its the only way you should go. I installed a carpet ounce, I know.

ounce.... uhhhh???

Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:33 am

bpritchert87 wrote: kustoms wrote: bpritchert87 wrote: ummmm... contact cement... never thought about that.... i might just try that... im sure its cheaper and if it works better........ Thanks for the idea.....

and you think 47-49 degrees will be ok..... thats at the high for the next couple of days....

Its the only way you should go. I installed a carpet ounce, I know.

ounce.... uhhhh???

Ya, maybe more. I don't remember. You know how that glue is.

:roll:

Wed Mar 12, 2008 3:39 am

lazybonz wrote: apply the contact cement to both the carpet and where you are installing it. let it dry untill its tacky then install. Just like putting on formica. It will take a little longer to dry to tacky but it should work.

If you want it to be permanent AND save a few dollars, use the liquid contact cement such as

I have done 4 cars and tried them all. The liquid type in the quart or gallon can is by far the best. Apply it with a cheap bristle type paint brush, not the foam ones. 4 years in a buggy and nothing has started to peel or let go. A quart is usually more than enough to do a buggy, may need 2 quarts for a truck type body. The water based/latex type was a waste of money. It will not hold. The aerosol is too expensive, $7.99 a can, and does not cover a lot of area. I did a Beetle with the spray. 6 cans and had to redo it a year later.
I just picked up a gallon on sale for $20.00

Apply to both surfaces and let it DRY COMPLETELY {not tacky}.

Borrowed from http://www.lepageproducts.com/questions.asp?answerme=162#cat162
In general, the solvent-based contact cement should be allowed to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before putting the pieces together. The latex contact cement should be allowed to dry for a period of one hour before putting the pieces together. Spray grade contact cement should be allowed to dry for about 3 to 5 minutes before putting the pieces together. The temperature and humidity play an important role during the open time. The above guidelines are based on room temperature and 50% relative humidity. Colder temperatures as well as higher humidity will slow down the evaporation rate. Higher temperatures will speed up the evaporation rate.

Here is one that I did for a friend.
Ceramic tile edging riveted to the body along the pereimeter of the carpet.

Carpet installed along sides

Carpet on floor

Make sure you get it in the correct position the first time as it is almost impossible to reposition

Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:42 am

Nice interior job dan!
I just made a back seat for mine and plan on doing the inside pannels in a similar fashion.
Used a 3' x 5' carpeted black rubber backed door mat.And i used a brush on contact cement too.

Wed Mar 12, 2008 5:43 am

awesome thanks for the info... i will have to give that a try..

Wed Mar 12, 2008 6:33 am

Dan is on the right track but let me give a couple of tricks based on my One carpet install. If you have a compressor invest in a cheap spray gun. If you get one with a small orifice that will not let the glue flow just drill it out a little. The time you will save and quality you get will pay for it in the long run. Do not cut the carpet exactly to size. Leave about a 2" overlap all the way around. Glue both sides with a light coat but not to light. Do not follow the setup time instructions. You will have to develop a feel for the particular glue you are using. Temp and humidity is a key factor. You want the glue to be a little on the wet side when placing the part but not so wet that it will run or pull away. What you are looking for is spider webs between the surface and the part if you pull them apart. This method will help if you have to reposition the carpet. Ounce you have the carpet in place rub or roll it in. If you have a bubble or pleat, use a rubber mallet side to smooth it out or tap on it if you have a pleat. It will blend in. use a putty knife to get it to tuck in to the corners Let it set up for a few moments then take a FRESH razor blade and simply trim the excess off. The next piece should be on the other side of the buggy to allow the newly install piece to set up.