TheSamba.com :: View topic - another kitchen rust project (warning: long and TBC)

Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:06 pm

I replaced the side panel a while back on my restoration project. It helps to have something to push against while gluing things up so that there's an even thickness of adhesive and no deformation. A 2x8 clamped to the wheel wells and some wood wedges worked for me. Here's a photo. I glued up, set the wedges and pushed from the inside. (the bottom edge is easy to clamp). Later I had a piece of 20 gauge steel bent to brace the inside and glued it in too. Good luck!
-Scott

Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:28 pm

Heres a pic of my recent resto. I used multiple layers of epoxy fiberglass to delete the utility inlets completly. Also replaced the fridge (12V only) and deleted that hole too. While I was at it I deleted the antenna hole, rear wiper (never worked that well) and (we dont need no stinking) badge holes as well.I wanted to eliminate as many paths for water entry into the body as possible. I figured I never used the utility inlets anyway. I do have to fill the water tank from the inside and I put in a marine 120 inlet and a powered antenna. I've plugged the stuff before but for those places where I suspect small leaks I've applied Capt Tollys Creeking Crack Cure, great stuff, it sealed up my problem skylight like a champ. I put a bit on the windsheald seal too.
SAMBA!

Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:54 am

ScottN, do you have a picture of the peice you bent up and fitted inside? Thank you.

Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:08 pm

Here you go- I'm not sure how much help this will be. It's been sprayed with epoxy primer and seam sealed so it's a bit hard to see.

I started by shearing a 3-1/2" x 48" strip of 20 gauge cold rolled steel. It was bent so that the edge that sits on the floor is 2" wide (leaving 1-1/2 against the side panel). The angle isn't 90 degrees. I made a quick template out of cardboard to give to the guy doing the bending.

It still took a bit of tweaking on my end to get it to fit well- the original panel has a slight curve to it. But a bit of trimming to allow access to the drain plugs on the floor and on the ends to fit around the door pillar finished it off. The side of the van is nice and solid now.

Hope this helps.

-Scott

Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:17 pm

Scott, yes I see it a picture is worth a thousand words. All the posts about kitchen and seam rust, and this is the first one I have seen with it actually repaired where the rust is the worst. Thank you for taking the time to post a picture and to reply. My floor is marginal in that area, and the outer panel including the rocker is in fairly good shape. I am going to treat the rust, paint and seal and then I am going to try an Eastwood product in an aerosol called Internal frame coating to blow into the area and see how it holds up until I am ready to do all of the body work. At least I understand what will be required to fix the area properly. I don't want to do something now that will complicate fixing it properly later. Thanks again. mark

Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:23 pm

Reviving an old thread, I've got the same issue with inside floor rust and some seam rust. However there is little to no evidence of seam rust from the outside so currently I'm not planning on replacing the rocker pannel, just the rusted floor inside (not really the floor, bit the top of the channel that runs along the side of the van- not sure what it's called...)

Rsxsr how did you like the Westwood inner frame spray? I ordered a can of that and a can of the new rust converter. Also did you put a new floor piece like the one shown in Bens photo?

I'm thinking of cutting out the rusted floor section, sealing it and leaving it open. Anyone see any issues? There are large drain holes that I think I should fill if I leave it open...

I've just started cutting so more investigation is underway.

Sat Feb 04, 2012 7:53 pm

My task was to only replace the fridge fan at the time. I will tackle the body work last, but I did need to attempt to slow the rust. I used a wire brush on my air 90 degree grinder to knock off the rust I could. I used a stick magnet to get as much loose rust from under the floor panel. I then sprayed all the rusted area with Eastwood rust encapsulator. The spray cans are easier to deal with. I then mixed up a couple tubes of JB weld and smeared the entire panel to fill the pits and to put back some strength.

I then sprayed the frame stuff from eastwood using all 4 factory holes that had the plugs. Working from both ends and then the middle two. I got enough in there that it ran out the bottom. One can was enough to do that frame member and the sliding door member. I then painted the entire area with rustoleum. I left the plugs out on purpose. Not sure why they are there, but I believe any moisture that might collect there, should run into the frame, where it can then run out on to the ground.

I put sound deadener on the inner wall along with insulation and reflectix. Last step was as I said above was to spray CRC soft sol a corrosion inhibitor. I was suprised that some actually weaped out the seams to the outside even on the sides. I used 4 layers of reflectix and it is off the floor panel.

When the time comes, I will probably have to cut it all out and do it right. I feel I have slowed the rust and was able to then put the fridge back in, the original project. Here are a few pictures. Not as glamorous as the above proper repairs, but I did not have to cut, weld, fit, finish, prime and paint. mark

Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:43 pm

Mark-
Thanks for the write up! I'm in the same boat as far as waiting to do a proper whole body paint job and rust crusade.

I think I'm going to leave the channel open. Then spray it with rust converter and primer and call it protected for a couple years. Also do the Inner frame of the door side with the Eastwood. I can say that inside those frames is covered in a wax and alot of caked on dust- or at least the one I cut open was. Don't know how much that will cut the effectiveness of the spray inside the frame I can't clean.

Thanks for the reply!

Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:28 pm

Glad this thread was revived.

The OP screwed his panel on as well as glued. Are the screws necessary and would you grind the heads off after for appearances?

Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:53 am

I don't think he used screws to hold anything. He used a product called weld-bond and glued to panel in.

I'm no body expert but I would guess a screw with no head would be at risk of coming apart over time. Spot welds and adhesives seem to be the way to go.

Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:56 pm

This is what I was referring to:

Quote: After I was happy with the fit I used a few #6 sheet metal screws on the top edge and C- clamps on the bottom.

Sun Feb 05, 2012 5:19 pm

Looks like the screws were just used to hold the pannel in place while the glue dried, then removed. I think grinding the heads off would be a larger pia then removing them.

Hopefully someone with bodywork expertise will chime in... I'm a fiberglass guy so sheetmetal is new territory :roll:

Wed Jul 02, 2014 11:44 am

Just glancing over this old thread.

I have this job to do also. What are the more experienced (especially experienced body guys) thoughts on glue vs welding this particular panel?

Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:03 pm

I figure a little update on this project might be in order.
first to answer a couple of question that I had missed whilst on a samba hiatus. The sheet metal screw where only hold the panel in place while the Sem Weld-bond cured.

I originally did this project in 2008, the adhesive is still holding strong. And when I pulled my fridge last week for servicing I inspected the area am please to say that there is zero new rust and the POR-15 on the body panel and floor seemed to do the trick. 7 years and counting.

Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:32 am

Thanks for the update!

Sadly, This is something that rarely happens but when it does it is invaluable!

Proven repair method with real World time proven results!

Bravo!!

Dave

Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:23 am

When over lapping and gluing the new replacement metal over the section of removed metal, how is the new section kept flush with the existing adjacent panels of the van?

Did you have to bend back the lip of the glued section when aligning the panels?