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Wed May 14, 2008 12:21 pm

it says "rust dissolver" on the label. I've used it and it seems to work pretty well - wire brush rusty area, spread on the naval jelly, and the rust turns black.

My question for everyone is can this be filler-ed, epoxy-ed, painted, and / or primer-ed over successfully? What do you think are the chances of the rust coming back?

Wed May 14, 2008 1:22 pm

I think it says on the bottle that it doesn't give the metal log term protection. I think you should probably clean of the Naval Jelly residue before you paint. Naval Jelly is a phosphate.

I prefer Metal Ready and it does a really good job of cleaning rusty areas like naval jelly. It also gives the metal a zinc coating that will keep it from re-rusting.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2

PickleX-20 I've heard is also a very good product that can be painted over. I've never used it.

Wed May 14, 2008 6:46 pm

The active ingredient in Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid. It actually turns iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate. I don't know what Naval Jelly costs. I use a product called Ospho, which is also a phosphoric acid product. It runs about $35.00/gallon and is available from Sherwin Williams/Duron paint stores. It is a liquid that I spray on, let dry about 24 hours and then prime (rust bullit). A gallon will go a long way.

Fri May 16, 2008 8:29 am

I second Ospho. I coated some bare metal single cab gates with it a year ago. They were left out in the rain for a long time and they still havent rusted. Can you paint over Ospho with primer and have it come out decent?

Fri May 16, 2008 10:55 am

I did a little research on Ospho. Per their website you can paint and prime over it after you remove any loose particles.

I'm gonna try Ospho.

Sun May 18, 2008 8:44 am

hey,

I experimented with something else from the hardware store maybe you could try. I took muratic acid (sp) and poured it on a front floor panel frm my bus that was surface rusted. It pretty much instantly removed the rust and the metal looked brand new. I hosed it off immediately so that it wouldnt eat into the metal. Then I had a spray bottle of ospho and sprayed the wet metal pretty generously with ospho. This was also a year ago and it was also left outside for about a month in rain and still hasnt rusted. I am about to paint this thing up in about a month so I guess I will see how it handles paint. The muratic acid is about $3 a gallon at the hardware store. It is used for cleaning concrete. If you try this, make sure to wash it off with water as soon as the rust is off. I left a gas filler door in it overnight and it completely ate it away. Do it outside too in a very well ventilated area because it makes some nasty fumes (hydrogen? I think is the byproduct). Dont mix it with anything but water. It sounds sorta scary, but it works excellent and gets rust out of seams etc.

Mon May 19, 2008 9:21 am

I have used Picklex-20. It's expensive, though. I bought a 16 oz. spray bottle and paid $38 with shipping. It's listed on their website for $32.80.

I'm stripping my 65 Type1 for a new paint job. As I only have an hour here and there to work, I strip a small area, give it a light squirt of Picklex-20, spread it evenly with a paint brush, and let it dry. It gives the clean metal a white-ish appearance. The bottle says you can weld, paint, prime - anything - over the top of it. I will probably hit the body with 80 grit one time before I prime but I won't worry about getting all of the Picklex-20 off. It says it does rust converting, too, but it doesn't leave the rusty spots as black as the Naval Jelly (acid).

I've got about 50% of the body done this way, and the bottle is now about 60% full. One 16 ox. bottle is easily enough to do a whole Type1.

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