TheSamba.com :: View topic - Rust-Oleum Bare Metal Primer

Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:28 pm

I know you guys are going to curse me for this, but... I'm in the Navy, right about the time I get done stripping the car down to bare metal it's going to be time for me to get underway for a few months. I figured after I stripped it down to bare metal I could shoot the entire car with the Rust-Oleum bare metal primer. It can be bought in a quart can for about $7.

My feelings on this are- it's cheap and being that it's my first paint job ever, who really cares if I mess it up. I'm thinking that if I do an extremely think coat of this stuff before I go to sea I'll just be able to use some paint stripper to take it off in about 15 minutes when I get home. Then prime it with a quality etching primer, etc etc.

Any thoughts on this? is it a horrible idea? Hell, would it be ok to just spray the high build right over that when I get home? A quart of the PPG etching primer is about $60 here, you get what you pay for. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton folks! You guys (and gals) are the best.

--Matt

Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:07 am

You'd be better of using direct to metal paint rather than primer if you're going to strip it all off again. The primer won't keep the moisture out. Rustoleum, XORust, any cheap oil enamel will do.

Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:59 pm

ok,.so you are gonna strip it,..use a cheap primer to cover it,
then later strip it all off again?
why strip at all then?

Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:32 am

Foxx wrote: ok,.so you are gonna strip it,..use a cheap primer to cover it,
then later strip it all off again?
why strip at all then?

Why not? If I dont spend the month stripping it now it'll have to sit for 5 months before I can fully strip it. There are 8 coats of paint on the thing, it needs to be stripped.

Wed Jun 25, 2008 10:53 pm

PPG DP40 primer can stand on it's own for years without being covered. If you are going to strip it down, coat it with a couple coats of DP40 and you'll save a lot of time later. Use a HVLP spray gun and you will waste as little of the expensive primer as possible.

Thu Jun 26, 2008 1:04 pm

RWalker wrote: PPG DP40 primer can stand on it's own for years without being covered. If you are going to strip it down, coat it with a couple coats of DP40 and you'll save a lot of time later. Use a HVLP spray gun and you will waste as little of the expensive primer as possible.

DP40 is good stuff! And better than stripping it twice.

Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:42 pm

bubblehead wrote: RWalker wrote: PPG DP40 primer can stand on it's own for years without being covered. If you are going to strip it down, coat it with a couple coats of DP40 and you'll save a lot of time later. Use a HVLP spray gun and you will waste as little of the expensive primer as possible.

DP40 is good stuff! And better than stripping it twice.

Bubblehead eh? Currently stationed on the USS Nebraska SSBN 739 :)

I figured I might as well hit it with a good primer before I leave just so I dont have to strip and do it anyway when I get back. For spraying etching/high build primer is it ok to use a cheap $100 HUSKY (home depot) HVLP gun? Since most of it is going to get sanded off anyway. Also, can you sand an etching primer?

Thanks in advance folks! You guys are great.

Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:34 pm

Yes, you can sand epoxy primer.

Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:55 am

if you use the DP 40, read the directions well.
it has to sit for 15 mins. after mixing and before spraying.

Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:43 pm

Hi Matt. After you strip the car use eastwoodco.com Metal Wash. This will neutralize the stripper and give a nice clean surface. Allso use a water soluable stripper. If you want to go with Rustoleum us the Rusty Metal Primer. Two coats with a brush and roller. After it cures for a week or so it wet-sands beautifully. I have yet to find a paint that's not compatible. Stay safe out there and thank you for your service. Bill

Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:56 pm

mattollila wrote: bubblehead wrote: RWalker wrote: PPG DP40 primer can stand on it's own for years without being covered. If you are going to strip it down, coat it with a couple coats of DP40 and you'll save a lot of time later. Use a HVLP spray gun and you will waste as little of the expensive primer as possible.

DP40 is good stuff! And better than stripping it twice.

Bubblehead eh? Currently stationed on the USS Nebraska SSBN 739 :)

I figured I might as well hit it with a good primer before I leave just so I dont have to strip and do it anyway when I get back. For spraying etching/high build primer is it ok to use a cheap $100 HUSKY (home depot) HVLP gun? Since most of it is going to get sanded off anyway. Also, can you sand an etching primer?

Thanks in advance folks! You guys are great.

Read up on this, if you haven't already seen it.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=174540

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44677

Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:46 pm

You have to use a primer that will block out moisture so that means two coats of epoxy primer or metal-etching primer. Regular primer will not seal out the moisture and you will have some corrosion under your new paint job if you didn't take it down to bare metal, again. It would be a lot of wasted labor so do it right the first time.
Remember to spray two coats of epoxy primer; you have to scuff it up and spray on another coat when you are ready to spray on the primer filler later, after storage. Read the directions: the primer filler has to be sprayed over the new epoxy primer after two or three days before it sets up like glass.