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2002sportside Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:38 pm

ProWelder wrote: Either way the relay is a band-aid fix to the real problem either starter or wiring.

-Winslow Haselwood
SAW Industries
Find me a car made today that has their starter circuit wired the way VW did it. They all use a relay for a good reason. A circuit with the potential to draw that much amperage should go straight to the battery. For 90% of the bugs on the road the stock wiring "works," but it doesn't mean its the best way for it to be wired...

TRAVELER Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:19 pm

it is a 75 yes it is fuel injected and the other 2 red wires that are joined into 1 with aconnector is coming from area of the fuel pump relayand it goes thro a hole in the firewall

JonF Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:40 pm

Russ Wolfe wrote: Glenn wrote: I use Bosch 30 amp relays.

The solenoid draws 30 amps to pull in, (has to move the bendix), and 20 amps to hold.
On 12V cars, I use the #53 relay from a water cooled VW, or if I can find them, the glow plug relay from a diesel rabbit. The #53 is rated at 40 amps, and the diesel glow plug relay is rated at 50 amps.

what about using a defroster relay 311 963 141 what is it rated at?

Russ Wolfe Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:01 pm

JonF wrote: Russ Wolfe wrote: Glenn wrote: I use Bosch 30 amp relays.

The solenoid draws 30 amps to pull in, (has to move the bendix), and 20 amps to hold.
On 12V cars, I use the #53 relay from a water cooled VW, or if I can find them, the glow plug relay from a diesel rabbit. The #53 is rated at 40 amps, and the diesel glow plug relay is rated at 50 amps.

what about using a defroster relay 311 963 141 what is it rated at?

That is only rated at 20 amps I think. Same with the Ghia horn relay.

Russ Wolfe Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:08 pm

ProWelder wrote: Either way the relay is a band-aid fix to the real problem either starter or wiring.

-Winslow Haselwood
SAW Industries

If you have an ignition switch going bad, and a new switch is $250, (if you can find one) then the relay is not a bandaid cure. It is an economics cure.

jamesdagg Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:45 am

The red wire under the seat going into the firewall is #50 to the starter. The reason it splits in two at the T is the fabulous diagnostic system.

I used the Ford relay and it's a plug in setup that can be reversed in minutes. I used a battery cable from the battery and spade connectors, male and female, to connect to the #50 red wire. I should have used a brown wire from the relay to the body ground but I happened to have a piece of red wire with the proper ends. My bad! I will change it eventually.

It's on the bottom of the pic. Heavy white wire is for a future ammeter.



jim



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