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Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:23 am

From earlier in this thread

Thu Sep 08, 2016 11:31 am

This is the outside surface

Outside surface

Thu Sep 08, 2016 11:37 am

nlorntson wrote:

okay yes this is the same rubber that i have that doesn't have that semi circle that Everett is referring to. However in your pictures you can't tell which side is the inside and which side is the outside or where the flat side is.

Since it does sound like that the flat side needs to lay against the bus and the tapered side (in my case) needs to be facing the outside. Making this image below the wrong way to do it! Also meaning one of the first comments about this on page 1 of this thread stating "Flat side out" is wrong. That is the reason I did it wrong. Just read page one and did two of mine.

Thu Sep 08, 2016 4:46 pm

I added that photo above to the first post in this thread.

I agree "flat side out" is confusing.
I think of it as the little flat side that covers the frame edge goes to the outside but without that specific text or a photo or an original window to examine, it's easily confusing.

Fri Sep 09, 2016 6:09 am

yes it is confusing! I emailed WW and this was the reply.

"The extra lip on the seal faces outward as shown on the link below.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=221847131A

So that's helps to explain it better. Thanks for all the help team aircooled!

Fri Sep 09, 2016 7:15 am

I added text to my pictures above.

I thought of it as the metal frame seals against the rubber in the body window opening making an "inner" seal, and the rubber on the perimeter of the pop out seals against the body making the "outer" seal.

Wed Sep 14, 2016 4:22 pm

Was able to use ratchet straps and a towel to pull the windows closer together. Worked very well.

Thu Oct 20, 2016 12:06 pm

Longboardluv wrote: yes it is confusing! I emailed WW and this was the reply.

"The extra lip on the seal faces outward as shown on the link below.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=221847131A

Just read this entire thread. Great info! The above link gives a perfect visual resolution to all the duplicate enquiries.

Drat... now I'm all geared up. Looks like I'll have to start on the one pop out I have with OG frame and glass. Fingers crossed that I don't discover what safety glass looks like! Moving sloooww... more later...

Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:03 pm

Did my pop out. I was paranoid of this job in fear of breaking OG glass but this thread was *very helpful regarding little tricks and methods.

I might add:

Instead of completely/100% drilling out two of the old frame screws (lowers), I drilled a small hole in the screw and then used a screw extractor. This guaranteed not over-drilling the hole size for the 4mm re-tap, as well as keeping the hole on-center best as possible. Also, I didn't have to drill a larger hole for the 4mm tap and was able to tap it directly as it was as I thought perhaps rust may have weakened the hole walls enough to accept the 4mm tap... it worked perfectly. Local hdw store had the 4mm screws but had to get the 3.5mm from Wolfsburg West for the top screws.

Thanks to the thread mentioning some window logos do correctly appear reversed, I marked the glass orientation.

I didn’t paint the frame (fully OG paint/patina bus) but thought to comment on the above powder coating "too tight" issue. From the factory, the frames appear to have been painted *after assembly; there is no OG paint on the slider joint-touching surfaces. May be best to tape these areas (or fully scrape them) if re-painting. No paint = easier assembly.

I used baby powder as the ‘lube’. Frame slid together with 1/8” gap shy of full closure. I only used very tight bungy cords (wrapped around the long frame edges) to hold the frame pieces in place (didn’t have ratchet straps or clamps) while manually compressing the pieces closer together to rid the 1/8” gap. It definitely took a some might to close that gap but easily enough accomplished with minimal glass breaking risk.

The seals were from Wolfsburg West (1.5 yrs ago) and as mentioned in thread, the outer frame seal’s track width is too narrow and is a bit sloppy/moveable once insterted , however, the corners didn't pop out. Overall, the seals all fit very well.

Sat Feb 25, 2017 9:06 am

A while ago someone mentioned about some lubricant they used that came in a stick that worked great for rubber seals.

I couldn't find the post but is it this stuff or something else?

AGS Door-Ease Stick Lubricant
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ...8da6830703

Sat Feb 25, 2017 9:47 am

EverettB wrote: A while ago someone mentioned about some lubricant they used that came in a stick that worked great for rubber seals.

I couldn't find the post but is it this stuff or something else?

AGS Door-Ease Stick Lubricant
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ...8da6830703

I think that is the stuff. I've used it for many different applications, good stuff.

Gordo.

Sat Feb 25, 2017 10:22 am

flemcadiddlehopper wrote: EverettB wrote: A while ago someone mentioned about some lubricant they used that came in a stick that worked great for rubber seals.

I couldn't find the post but is it this stuff or something else?

AGS Door-Ease Stick Lubricant
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ...8da6830703

I think that is the stuff. I've used it for many different applications, good stuff.

Gordo.
What do you guys think it is made out of?

Sat Feb 25, 2017 10:53 am

Seems to be a waxy, gummy material, yet solid like a bar of soap. It's been around forever so it's doubtful that there is any silicone in it.

but if this helps... http://agscompany.com/resources/msds-sheets/ and you can make any sense of it.

Gordo.

Sat Feb 25, 2017 12:35 pm

silicone has been around forever, too, for over 100 years...

Sat Feb 25, 2017 7:20 pm

flemcadiddlehopper wrote: Seems to be a waxy, gummy material, yet solid like a bar of soap. It's been around forever so it's doubtful that there is any silicone in it.

but if this helps... http://agscompany.com/resources/msds-sheets/ and you can make any sense of it.

Gordo.
Thanks. Says these are part numbers of Door Ease:
"CEK-3OL, DE-1, DE-2, DE-25, DE-3, DEB-2, DEB-3, DEC-3, DEK-3, DEK-3BK (765-1385), DEK-3H, DEP-1, DEP-3, DKC-3, DR-2, DR-2CH, DR-2GG, TA-2, TA-2ML, TM-2, TM-2BG, TM-2BR, TM-2PP, ZE-2 N/C, ZE-2CGC, ZE-2CS, ZE-2IS, ZE-2TD, ZE-2CGF"
Hmmmm, doesn't help, unless those are the parts that make up the product. Doubt it but if so then where is the key to those parts numbers.

Sun Feb 26, 2017 11:21 am

BarryL wrote: flemcadiddlehopper wrote: Seems to be a waxy, gummy material, yet solid like a bar of soap. It's been around forever so it's doubtful that there is any silicone in it.

but if this helps... http://agscompany.com/resources/msds-sheets/ and you can make any sense of it.

Gordo.
Thanks. Says these are part numbers of Door Ease:
"CEK-3OL, DE-1, DE-2, DE-25, DE-3, DEB-2, DEB-3, DEC-3, DEK-3, DEK-3BK (765-1385), DEK-3H, DEP-1, DEP-3, DKC-3, DR-2, DR-2CH, DR-2GG, TA-2, TA-2ML, TM-2, TM-2BG, TM-2BR, TM-2PP, ZE-2 N/C, ZE-2CGC, ZE-2CS, ZE-2IS, ZE-2TD, ZE-2CGF"

Hmmmm, doesn't help, unless those are the parts that make up the product. Doubt it but if so then where is the key to those parts numbers.

I think they are all chemical codes.....so I wouldn't eat it, no matter how thinly you slice it.

Gordo.

Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:06 am

Great thread. Getting reading to paint mine today. They are all prepped and primed. Going to use single stage auto paint, Question: Do you guys spray them screwed together or each half apart. Thanks!

Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:18 am

My vote would be spray them apart so that the seam edges get a little paint... but see my comments above about keeping paint off the tab insert areas.
If you paint them assembled then where the frame pieces meet/touch would be bare metal and could be prone to rust. Just my thoughts.

Having said all that, my frames are OG paint and they seem to have been painted assembled! My bus has been in a dry environment so it was lucky not to get much rust...

Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:50 pm

Does anyone know the screw specs for attaching the pop out windows to the hinge?

Mine were "not returned" when my bus came back from the body shop... :evil:

Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:56 am

I believe they are M3.5 x .6 for the original size. If you have to re-tap them then M4 is what works.
I rang WW since I couldn't locally find the 3.5 for the hinge screws (which i didn't have to re-tap). They tossed them in an envelope for $2 and I had them in two days.
On their site they sell both the 3.5 and the 4... but what you'll use depends if you re-tap.