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Fri Jun 26, 2009 10:26 pm

Big Thanks!

Sat Jun 27, 2009 4:34 pm

nevercme wrote: Big Thanks!

Anytime. Enjoy.

Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:33 pm

Hinge location photos at the request of a member.

Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:59 am

any measurements for the hinge placement? or any tips and tricks to get them right? i tried installing mine twice and it still isnt correct.

Tue Nov 16, 2010 1:06 pm

Yeah x2 on the placement of the hinge (in and out, up and down) where it welds to the van and how about a measurement of the hinge itself? How wide is it when its closed/open? I have some stuff at work i may be able to snag for my bus and i want to make sure its going to work.

Also, i've seen some bus' with the front two popouts opening forward.. is this stock? Anyone have trouble with windows ripping off while driving? ;)

Tue Nov 16, 2010 2:15 pm

What I did was install the hinge on the popout, and install the popout latch to the bus and the popout. open the latch, and position the window so it is in the popout position and place the hinge where you think it should be. you can kinda half way close the window so you get an idea of how the rubber is gonna hit. I scribed the edge, opened the window, and tack welded it. made sure everything lined up and closed right and then finished up the weld, ground/finished it up with the window off.

Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:44 pm

Sir, this is a good thread. Thank you for taking the time to post these details. I have a few questions. Did you use any left hand drill bits(extractors)on the frame screws under the seals? Did you use any metric drill bits? Thanks again for the post.

Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:31 pm

mr white wrote: Sir, this is a good thread. Thank you for taking the time to post these details. I have a few questions. Did you use any left hand drill bits(extractors)on the frame screws under the seals? Did you use any metric drill bits? Thanks again for the post.

Thanks.

No, I did not use extractors. Generally, I found that the top screws were removeable, but the bottom screws were not. For the most part the cancer on these screws was pretty extensive, I just drilled them out (using a smaller drill the the 1/8th). I used a standard 1/8th drill bit for the tap 4mm x .70 .

Wed Nov 17, 2010 3:43 am

Not to open a can of worms, but I was wondering about the use of silicone on rubber parts and the possible premature break down of the rubber seal? Would it be possible to use baby powder?
Very nice pictures and write up.

Wed Nov 17, 2010 7:54 am

Re: the silicone. I have heard and thought about the same thing. Truthfully, the external seals are oversized or different than the OG seals making the connection too tight. Baby powder is probably a good idea, or maybe a different lubricant.

But FYI, I haven't noticed any issue using the silicone.

Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:17 am

I just started restoring Scarlet, my 61. I am having a hard time just separating the frames, I already broke one window. Any suggestions.

Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:37 am

redbug64 wrote: Also, i've seen some bus' with the front two popouts opening forward.. is this stock? Anyone have trouble with windows ripping off while driving? ;)

Opening to the front is stock. Typical bus speeds should not cause any window rippage, unless the attachment points are really rusty and weak.

Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:24 am

gonzos_VW wrote: I just started restoring Scarlet, my 61. I am having a hard time just separating the frames, I already broke one window. Any suggestions.
I haven't done that many but spray rust breaker and run a razor blade down the channel where the glass goes into the frame. This can loosen up the pressure the seal puts on the glass and allow the frame to come apart easier.

Try to take it apart when you have it laying flat on a work bench so you make sure you are not twisting anything, causing it to crack.

Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:05 pm

I done a few of these, When I take them apart and they become stubborn to the point where you end up messing up the area where the little screws go I replace the whole pop out frame depending on witch side is bad. Fixing these ends without having it to be noticeable can be difficult.

Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:07 pm

If you are having trouble getting the screws out that hold the halves together, I drill out the heads.

I put the whole window in a vice with a thick towel around it just so it doesn't move, then drill a tiny pilot-type hole in the center of each head, then move up to a drill bit that is a little bit smaller than the head of the screw. Drill just enough so the head comes off but it doesn't mess up the frame.

Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:07 am

I always use windex to lube my seals before putting the pop outs together. Everything slides together really easily and it doesn't leave any residue since it is made for cleaning glass. Dish soap is a no-no as the soap will get trapped under the seal and keep leeching out putting a film on your glass. I never tried silicone spray before, so I don't have an opinion on that.

Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:30 pm

Were all pop-outs painted the same color (ie-silver/white)? I have a cumulus white bus & I don't want to assume the correct color.

Thanks,
Jerry

Fri Apr 22, 2011 6:22 pm

Jerry wrote: Were all pop-outs painted the same color (ie-silver/white)? I have a cumulus white bus & I don't want to assume the correct color.

Thanks,
Jerry

No, The window frames are painted the same color as the top color of the bus. ie: cumulus white in your case.

Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:00 pm

EverettB wrote: If you are having trouble getting the screws out that hold the halves together, I drill out the heads.

I put the whole window in a vice with a thick towel around it just so it doesn't move, then drill a tiny pilot-type hole in the center of each head, then move up to a drill bit that is a little bit smaller than the head of the screw. Drill just enough so the head comes off but it doesn't mess up the frame.

This is how I do it as well. Once the windows are dissasembled, I will heat what's left of the screw up red hot and cool it with cold water. If you are saving the old paint, use a wet sponge on the surrounding area to keep the paint from burning off. After I heat and cool the screw a few times I run a small drillbit through the center of the screw and the broken screw drives itself out and leaves the original threads untouched.

Wed May 25, 2011 8:47 pm

Had to replace a missing hinge on my DC. As I recalled others asked for the location of the hinge, I thought I would post the process here.

Pop out window on the cargo door of my DC was missing the hinge. Sourced a replacement from WW and measured it in. Found the center of the window opening at approx 7 1/2 inches, and put the window back in to verify the location. Gap between the metal lip for the inner seal and the hinge is 3/16th on the OG hinge that was present on the other side.

I tapped a set of screws to secure the hinge, welded the other holes to the frame, and then removed the screws and welded the holes shut.

After grinding the welds and throwing on a coat of primer.