TheSamba.com :: View topic - Largest Capacity Auxiliary Battery in stock location

Tue Nov 04, 2008 12:07 pm

Thanks for the pic. don't like how in the way the battery is.

Tue Nov 04, 2008 12:43 pm

The factory new the original diesel would see some cranking amps on cold days between the starter and glow plug. I assume they wanted the cables as short as possible. The TDI cranks over easy. Others doing the conversions have put the battery under the back seat. For camping all storage space is a premium.

About the relay. I ran so many wires to get the TDI working, I guess I was leaning towards not running cables to the cabin battery. The relay and wiring does look wimpy. Once I get the batteries in, I will readdress my decision to use the OE charging relay. Thanks for the advice.

Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:21 pm

A Surepower 1314 or 1315 would be a good choice here. These have 100A capacity.

Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:08 pm

Giving this subject a bump because I was told that Diesel Vanagons are wired differently than other Vanagons. As such, they do not have the wires or relay in place for a second battery. RSXSR, is this true?

Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:31 pm

The four batterys work great in over a year and I do not even think about
them any more.

Mon Apr 06, 2009 7:22 am

68 Fish, yes the Vanagon Diesel battery setup is different. The main battery is in the engine compartment near the R Tailight. My 82 Diesel camper is wired for a second battery under the driver's seat like the gas models. I still have not installed the 4 battery setup. Just not enough time with everything else going on. If you were so inclined, with an original Vanagon Diesel, you could have auxilary batteries under both front seats.

Mon Apr 06, 2009 9:29 am

That sounds like a great ideal!

Thu Apr 16, 2009 1:07 pm

The standard costco deep cycle battery fits, contrary to what one might think just looking at the dimensional specs. The terminal posts slightly stick out the top but it's minor. (You have to remove the metal hinged lid)

The only catch... no swiveling since the battery becomes an obstacle. I don't remember what the amps are off-hand, but I know they are comparatively high (since it's a standard size deep cycle). It's an easy installation with no fancy mods. Just remove the chair and the swivel plates underneath to get access to the full compartment. The battery is held snug by the swivel plates once you bolt them back on.

Thu Apr 16, 2009 6:15 pm

How about a photo with it all installed?

The use of the word "fit" seems a little lax. I guess you could say size 12 shoes fit size 10 feet since 4 pairs of socks can always be worn to make it work.

Mark

diceman93 wrote: The standard costco deep cycle battery fits, contrary to what one might think just looking at the dimensional specs. The terminal posts slightly stick out the top but it's minor. (You have to remove the metal hinged lid)

The only catch... no swiveling since the battery becomes an obstacle. I don't remember what the amps are off-hand, but I know they are comparatively high (since it's a standard size deep cycle). It's an easy installation with no fancy mods. Just remove the chair and the swivel plates underneath to get access to the full compartment. The battery is held snug by the swivel plates once you bolt them back on.

Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:29 am

I'm probably missing something, but, at first glance this this battery seems good for putting under the driver's seat. It's a group 24, but, the posts may stick out the top.

http://www.exide.com/products/marine_rv/stowaway_marine_deep_cycle.html

Click on "battery specifications". It claims to be 80 Ah.

Cheers,

Ken

Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:41 am

2.5" too tall :)

Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:55 am

Of course!!!

I gotta shake the cobwebs before I hit that submit button.

Thanks Westy.

Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:13 pm

Okay... pictures.

Look in the gallery to see the rest of the pictures too. I just figured out how to post them.

This is the 85ah costco deep cycle battery fitting underneath the driver seat. They said it couldn't be done, but it couldn't be an easier installation!

crazyvwvanman wrote: How about a photo with it all installed?

The use of the word "fit" seems a little lax. I guess you could say size 12 shoes fit size 10 feet since 4 pairs of socks can always be worn to make it work.

Mark

diceman93 wrote: The standard costco deep cycle battery fits, contrary to what one might think just looking at the dimensional specs. The terminal posts slightly stick out the top but it's minor. (You have to remove the metal hinged lid)

The only catch... no swiveling since the battery becomes an obstacle. I don't remember what the amps are off-hand, but I know they are comparatively high (since it's a standard size deep cycle). It's an easy installation with no fancy mods. Just remove the chair and the swivel plates underneath to get access to the full compartment. The battery is held snug by the swivel plates once you bolt them back on.

Sun May 24, 2009 1:10 pm

I just finished installing 4 UB12220 batteries using the approach outlined by Westyventures in a message posted earlier in this thread. The only complication was that the battery boxes in my Syncro are not square in all 4 corners as they are in the 2 wheel drive models. In particular, the front drivers side corner of the box is rounded which prevents the batteries from fitting in nice and flush. I made some extra room by taking a hammer to that annoying corner. I made enough room for the batteries, but they sit a tiny bit higher that in a 2WD and are flush against the passengers side of the box. This forced me to replace the metal battery cover with a piece of fiberboard glued to the carpet. The result is a stock look with 88AH of aux battery capacity. I tested it out with my Vitrofrigo last weekend and couldn't be happier. Thanks for the idea Karl (aka Westy Ventures).
Jake
Cincinnati, Ohio

Sat May 30, 2009 3:13 pm

Does that relay work with direct wiring to the alt light circuit? Mine drew too much current to trigger and wouldn't allow the alternator to come on so I had to use the little relay to trigger the big one..

I'm also going this route - BatteryTex has them at $37 with free shipping on orders over $50 but with all the problems lately at work with AGM batteries, I'm now trying to find a 12v powered "smart" charger to keep the batteries at their potential...

Chris

Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:26 am

Luckypabst wrote: Does that relay work with direct wiring to the alt light circuit? Mine drew too much current to trigger and wouldn't allow the alternator to come on so I had to use the little relay to trigger the big one..

I'm also going this route - BatteryTex has them at $37 with free shipping on orders over $50 but with all the problems lately at work with AGM batteries, I'm now trying to find a 12v powered "smart" charger to keep the batteries at their potential...

Chris

What is this problem with AGM batteries? I plan on putting in those UB12220 soon. Does anyone have a good source?

Fri Feb 12, 2010 11:49 am

Luckypabst wrote: Does that relay work with direct wiring to the alt light circuit? Mine drew too much current to trigger and wouldn't allow the alternator to come on so I had to use the little relay to trigger the big one..Chris

Hey Chris, I hadn't revisited this thread since you posted your question. The relay worked this way....for a while. After a month or so I ran into the same problem. I tried using a small relay to trigger the bigger relay, but that didn't work either. Dennis Haynes over on the Vanagon list tipped me off to another circuit in the dash that only gets power when the van is running (i.e., not while cranking). My plan is to tap into that circuit. It's on the list of things to do.

So far the batteries are working great.

jake

Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:11 pm

i use a odyssey 1750 rated at 65 amp hours behind the drivers seat. i didn't have to do any mods.

Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:20 am

jbeaulie wrote: Dennis Haynes over on the Vanagon list tipped me off to another circuit in the dash that only gets power when the van is running (i.e., not while cranking). My plan is to tap into that circuit. It's on the list of things to do.

Here, once again, for posterity's sake, I'm copying this useful list of connections on late fuse panels. It ought to be in the stickys, maybe it is but no one reads those anyway (and please don't ask me about early stick-fuse panels, I just build the damn engines, OK?).

To power your combiner relay you will want to tap into the X-bus, so bring all your X-men action figures, they'll know just what to do:

This applies to the late, '86-on fuse panel only:

When you want a power supply for something, there are unused pins on the back of the main relay panel for most anything you'd need. On the left end (installed position), there are 6 pins in two rows labelled "P". These are all #30 pins, battery direct, unswitched, unfused. They are good for fairly heavy consumers. At the other end are ten pins labelled "G". These are hot under various conditions and can be used to power accessories. You can patch into the panel at whichever pins do the job for you by just plugging on a female spade terminal. It is always advisable to use a fuse inline from any power source to protect your device and wiring.

I'll list them according to the diagram. Where power is via a panel fuse, I've noted that with the letter "S". Always verify with a testlight or VOM before hooking up:

G1 & G3- X-bus load-controlled power (hot when ign. on, goes cold when starter operates) via S12
G2 & G5- #15 ignition-switched power via S18 (this is the ideal power source for extra instruments)
G4- D+ (alternator trigger circuit) via alternator warning LED
G6-dead end
G7 -headlights power
G8 -dimmer-controlled panel lighting power (to light your extra gauges)
G9 -parking lights power via S20 (for your low-rider under-chassis lighting, ese!)
G10- hot when windshield washer pump runs (headlamp washers, anyone?)

Earlier panels with stick fuses may also have extra power pins on the panel. You can check with a testlight or VOM.

Sat Feb 13, 2010 1:54 pm

tencentlife wrote: jbeaulie wrote: Dennis Haynes over on the Vanagon list tipped me off to another circuit in the dash that only gets power when the van is running (i.e., not while cranking). My plan is to tap into that circuit. It's on the list of things to do.

Here, once again, for posterity's sake, I'm copying this useful list of connections on late fuse panels. It ought to be in the stickys, maybe it is but no one reads those anyway (and please don't ask me about early stick-fuse panels, I just build the damn engines, OK?).

/i]

Thanks 10c....I added it to my own stickies for future reference!!