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Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:52 am

Need to change out the upper steering column bearing as the wheel is loose. Are there any tricks, or just a snap ring removal and pull out bearing?

Also, what is the allen head bolt in the lower part of the column housing near the wire plugs for?

Thank for any help :P

Tue Sep 16, 2008 12:10 pm

Generally it's not the bearing, it's this little guy...

PM me, I have a few, new, in stock.
- Easy replacement involves steering wheel removal, turn and wiper switch removal, snap ring removal and then the bushing is pushed in .
- Correct replacement is the same except up to the snap ring... after the snap ring disconnect the ignition wiring plug, unbolt the 2 13's that hold the column to the body then pull the column off the shaft. Slip on the bushing and replace the column.
- The allen holds the "Column head" to the column shaft. You could also just pull the head off the column to replace the bushing. However the column lock will sometimes give you fits.

Tue Sep 16, 2008 1:59 pm

I had that bushing go bad on me. I ended up taking the whole steering column apart and replacing the ignition switch and a few corroded components along with the bearing that the bushing rides in. The seal on the bearing had disintegrated and there was no grease left in the it.

Uber, do you have the bearing too?

German Motor Works has the bearing for about $40 with the bushing already installed. But I don't think they sell the bushings separately.

Tue Sep 16, 2008 5:38 pm

I have a few good used bearings, but no new ones.

Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:58 pm

Great info on pulling the column. Whats the price of your part mailed to San Diego.

Thanks

Wed Sep 17, 2008 12:07 pm

I read this thread yesterday with passive interest. Today after pulling into a parking spot, I found the steering shaft to be loose in the column with up and down play. Oh crap :evil:

Wed Sep 17, 2008 4:13 pm

That's exactly what happened to mine.

Found most of the plastic in dust and clump form further down the column.

Wed Sep 17, 2008 5:43 pm

I have the colume apart and a plastic pvc looking item came off that had three slots in it. Which way does this go back on or is it even required?

Does that sleve for the bearing go from the inside out. Any simple diagrams of the parts avail?

Thanks

Thu Sep 18, 2008 9:48 am

a74thing wrote: I have the column apart and a plastic pvc looking item came off that had three slots in it. Which way does this go back on or is it even required?
-
Slots on the "PVC" bit go towards the steering wheel.

The flange on the new bushing faces away from the steering wheel.

And I can't find a good diagram.

Thu Sep 18, 2008 10:01 pm

Thanks. I had a bad bearing which I obtained locally at JBUUGS in Oceanside, CA. The steering wheel is now tight.

Now I'm fighting a self cancel issue for L turns and the blinker light has a mind of its own!!!!

Thu Oct 09, 2008 2:07 pm

uberautowerks wrote: Generally it's not the bearing, it's this little guy...

PM me, I have a few, new, in stock.
- Easy replacement involves steering wheel removal, turn and wiper switch removal, snap ring removal and then the bushing is pushed in .
- Correct replacement is the same except up to the snap ring... after the snap ring disconnect the ignition wiring plug, unbolt the 2 13's that hold the column to the body then pull the column off the shaft. Slip on the bushing and replace the column.
- The allen holds the "Column head" to the column shaft. You could also just pull the head off the column to replace the bushing. However the column lock will sometimes give you fits.

I got your part, thanks. I have taken the whole column off and cleaned the unit, when I try to keep the bushing in place while sliding the column back in place I cannot get it seated as it should be it just keeps coming out of the bearing... any other hints how I can get this done?

Fire

Fri Oct 10, 2008 11:34 am

Glad it got to you.
The bushing goes on the shaft first with the ridge or lip facing away from the bearing. You can also put the bushing in the gearing first but the lip must be on the rear of the bearing, that is the rear of the bearing not the rear of the car.
I hope that helps!
Eric

Fri Oct 10, 2008 3:00 pm

I re-read the original posts and I see where I went wrong.

I pulled it again and put it in correctly and now everything is tight.

Thanks
Fire

Sun May 10, 2009 10:07 am

Can I change out the entire steering column for my 75 with one from a 74?
Will the lower end fit the splines on the steering box?
Whats with the wierd no headed bolts securing it to the dashboard? How do you get them out?

Sun May 10, 2009 10:25 am

I meant a steering column from a 73 into a 75..
sorry.

Sun May 10, 2009 10:47 am

I have some new bearings

Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:41 am

Bump?!

I plan on replacing the steering box soon and wanted to know what other parts or issues that should be inspected or replaced will I'm at it. I have already replaced the coupler and bolts when I did the whole front end. It was all cracked.

I have been checking on parts suppliers and the cost but, I should order everything all at once so I'll have everything I'll need. Any insights from those who have been there?

Wed Oct 13, 2010 12:03 pm

Related to JUST the steering box, I would recommend the dampener and replace the foam gasket between the gas tank and the body.

Now, while you have the gas tank out... replace the fuel lines that live under there and you may consider replacing the fuel tap and it's screen at the bottom of the tank. As well as the fuel tank filler hoses and the sending unit to tank gasket.

Napa has the best replacement for the filler hose. You'll need the smooth hose, not the ribbed stuff. Do NOT get the filler hose "Kit" from Airhead. Also called a "Fume Eliminator" kit. The hose it comes with is junk that starts cracking and splitting within a few months.

Eric

Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:50 pm

uberautowerks wrote: Related to JUST the steering box, I would recommend the dampener and replace the foam gasket between the gas tank and the body.

Now, while you have the gas tank out... replace the fuel lines that live under there and you may consider replacing the fuel tap and it's screen at the bottom of the tank. As well as the fuel tank filler hoses and the sending unit to tank gasket.

Napa has the best replacement for the filler hose. You'll need the smooth hose, not the ribbed stuff. Do NOT get the filler hose "Kit" from Airhead. Also called a "Fume Eliminator" kit. The hose it comes with is junk that starts cracking and splitting within a few months.

Eric

Guys,
I am working on a Thing that is a total basket case and needs new everything, but it was still worth it. What do you think about Viton hoses, if I can get a supply for a very reasonable price?

Mon Dec 13, 2010 6:15 am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s02nPu194KM