TheSamba.com :: View topic - Putting the rear axle/seals/bearings back together

Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:11 pm

I think I have it right... but does anyone have a blown apart diagram of how all the parts (axle tube to wheel backing plate) go back together? Simple non-CV joint '59 rear axle.

Thanks!

Tue Dec 09, 2008 11:43 pm

Just replaced mine over the weekend, heres the pic i used...

Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:04 am

When you get to the seal area, press the seal and slinger into the cover, put the axle spacer into the seal/cover 1st, before bolting it all up.

Often peeps will try to put the spacer on the axle and then get the cover on, it will most likely then not seat properly and leak...

Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:08 am

Wow.. thanks!!!

Sun Dec 21, 2008 4:52 am

Does anybody sell the bearings and spacer's as a kit? Best place to buy those?

Chris

Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:59 am

That picture is 65 and newer.

Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:30 am

Early with slinger, from the other Andy's site....

Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:26 pm

My rear axle was put together like the first picture above... those are the parts on it when I took it apart. I don't have that oil deflector thing on the second picture and I had the paper gasket on there.

I already put it all back together, per picture number one. I will hold onto this thread for future reference, though

Mon Sep 25, 2017 9:21 am

Reviving this old thread, because I saw something in the Bug Me video on this subject that confused me. In the video, the narrator shows the removal of a grease seal on the FRONT side (wheel side) of the bearing cover. I don't see that seal in either of the diagrams shown in this thread.

My car is a '65....am I going to have that outer grease seal?

Thanks.

Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:30 am

rcroane wrote: Reviving this old thread, because I saw something in the Bug Me video on this subject that confused me. In the video, the narrator shows the removal of a grease seal on the FRONT side (wheel side) of the bearing cover. I don't see that seal in either of the diagrams shown in this thread.

My car is a '65....am I going to have that outer grease seal?

Thanks.
Does the Bug Me video specify what your they are working on?

Up to 64 you can put the seal in the bearing cap from the outside.

65-> the bearing cap changed and you have to install the sealfrom the inner side.

Study the above illustrations carefully and you can see the visable difference in the caps.

Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:34 am

That might be it....they did both so maybe he was showing both versions. I watched it a couple of times and didn't hear him say that it was two different versions.

Thanks for clarifying.

Mon Sep 25, 2017 5:37 pm

In the 65 diagram make sure to put the oil slinger in the bearing cover before installing the seal through the back side of the cover. Use a seal installer. You'll be happy you did. You can rent one for free at the FLAPS.

Another poster in another forum suggested inserting the machined spacer that the seal rides on into the seal, then installing the entire cover and spacer as one piece on the axle. That way you don't catch the lip of the seal on the axle when installing the bearing cover.
Makes sense to me. I recently changed a rear axle bearing and snagged the seal when I installed the cover. Got to change the seal again the next weekend :shock:

Make sure to lube the seal very well before installing the bearing cover.

Good Luck.

Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:20 pm

Thanks for the replies. Finished step 1 this evening....draining the gear oil (will let drain overnight). Good news is that it looked very clean. Bad news is it seemed pretty low (rear end of car was jacked up...not sure if that made it seem lower than it actually was). I've dropped the car back to level while it drains overnight. I'm going to measure how much came out after it finishes draining.

Do I use gear oil to lube the seal?

Mon Sep 25, 2017 6:33 pm

I used wheel bearing grease on the seal.

I really wouldn't sweat how much oil was left in the trans. Unless your anal retentive. :shock: Then go for it.

Just make sure that when you fill the trans that you give it time for the gear lube to settle into the case. In other words. Fill it slowly.

Good Luck.

Mon Sep 25, 2017 7:58 pm

Did you pull both drain plugs? That way ensures you have drained as much as practical with the trans in place.

Any lip seal with a garter spring needs to be pre-lubricated with something compatable with the main oil spec. With all the different wheel bearing grease compounds available nowadays, I'd suggest simply using a light film of your chosen gear oil on the seal and race.

Yes on installing the spacer/seal race into the installed seal from the wheel side before you install the assembly onto the axle/bearing/backing plate. This way you can look and verify that the garter spring remains safely intact and in place.

Tue Sep 26, 2017 5:45 am

Crap...didn't realize there are two drain plugs! Looks like I'm back under there tonight :shock:

Tue Sep 26, 2017 4:35 pm

Ok....having trouble locating the second drain plug. My car has a camber compensator. It is attached in the center to a bracket/plate and it looks like there is a drain plug under there....does that sound correct? So, I will need to remove compensator and plate to access drain plug?

Thanks.

Tue Sep 26, 2017 5:19 pm

In this pic from the gallery, you can see the fill plug on the side, the forward drain plug at the forward end of the tunnel, and the rear drain plug pretty well centered under the differential.

Tue Sep 26, 2017 5:37 pm

Got it....like I thought, it was covered by the camber compensator and bracket.

Removed the second plug and about another 1/2 -3/4 cup of fluid drained out. Will leave it overnight.

I noticed that the compensator is EMPI....based on notes in my owners manual, the original owner had the dealer install it at the time of purchase.

Thanks again for all the advice so far.

Tue Sep 26, 2017 7:54 pm

Yep, the unit assembly is called a a transaxle for a reason 😉

Transmission drain plug is forward, and the rear axle aka differential drain plug is rear most. Internal webbing in the housing prevents full drainage from only one plug.

The Manual and best practice would have you warm the engine and transaxle up to normal temp then driving the car over a pit or flat ramp before pulling both drain plugs to change the oil. Compromise and adapt as you must.

In a perfect world you would expect to recover ~3/4 of what full refill spec is. Less than that it might have been a little low.