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BKellogg Sat Dec 03, 2011 3:04 pm

I see in the pics that there is a "combustion chamber" next to the BN4. Mine doesn't have one of these.... What is it's purpose? The heater works without it and there is a bracket there for one but I cannot find ANYTHING written about it. Please help!!!
Brian

[email protected] Sat Dec 03, 2011 3:08 pm

It is un related to the heater It is part of the gas Emissions System I have a box of these at my shop

BKellogg Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:00 pm

[email protected] wrote: It is un related to the heater It is part of the gas Emissions System I have a box of these at my shop

So is this something I need to have? This is my first Thing and it gets a little confusing at times as there isn't much in the way of manuals detailing stuff like this... Thanks for answering!!!
Brian

[email protected] Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:28 pm

I would recommend you get A parts manual I think there is a downloadable 1 in technical

Captain Spalding Sat Dec 03, 2011 4:31 pm

I think you are talking about the expansion chamber (circled in red below.) It's part of the evaporative control system and has nothing to do with the heater. For an explanation, see here. It's number 3 in the diagram.


BKellogg Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:46 pm

Captain Spalding wrote: I think you are talking about the expansion chamber (circled in red below.) It's part of the evaporative control system and has nothing to do with the heater. For an explanation, see here. It's number 3 in the diagram.



Thanks Michael. That helps a lot! Now I just gotta find one!!!
Brian

Ptomas Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:04 am

Hiyas-
I have searched high and low,but dont see my particular dilemma. Please flog,then re-direct me if I have missed it. :?
The short version- myBN-4 heater ls largely in good shape,the fan runs and times out correctly, the timer switch @ dash works,reset switch works,metering fuel pump clicks each time I have tested it w/ straight 12 v.I have disassembled the heater down to its blower motor,cleaned everything,replaced suspect terminals,and reassembled all.
I have 12v. coming into unit,but can only get 6-7.5 v @ fuel pump. Im at a loss.There are no obvious ground issues that I can find.Does anyone have an idea where I could be losing voltage?

Thanks-
Ptomas

P.S. I think I posted in the wrong place-srry!

Rabid Irish Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:14 pm

Can someone please post pictures of the gas heater's small fuel pump installed? When I got my car the gas tank was replaced with a new one, and the small fuel pump was removed. I am trying to figure out how the fuel lines should be run from the gas tank to the pump, then form the pump to the heater. I see where the pump is to mount on the body, but the bottom of my gas tank only has one fuel line hook up. What am I missing here? I searched but could not find anything highlighting what i need to know. Thanks

UPDATE:

Guess I did not search hard enough. found the answer to my own question. In case someone else is wondering here is a picture I borrowed from another thread.



Does anyone have one of these original "T" connectors they wanna sell me?

Jimmy James Wed Dec 14, 2011 2:43 pm

I am wanting to purchase a 1974 Thing but it does not have a heater. Is there an aftermarket heater that will work. Can't seem to find one anywhere. Any suggestions or links to a site that will have something? Thanks

Semper_Dad Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:57 pm

Jimmy James wrote: I am wanting to purchase a 1974 Thing but it does not have a heater. Is there an aftermarket heater that will work. Can't seem to find one anywhere. Any suggestions or links to a site that will have something? Thanks

74s did not normally come with the auxillary gas heater like the 73s and older 181s. You can retrofit a BN4 into a 74 if you wish. Probably more cost effectve to rebuild or re-establish the existing heating system though. Mine works fine once your down the road for about 10 minutes. Infact, I usually have to crack open a window.

There are other aftermarket heaters that have been installed besides the BN4. Stewart-Warner comes to mind. Bus and camper folk have been installing systems by Propex but you will have to carry a propane bottle. Maybe that would be a good use of that extra aircleaner bracket in the engine bay.

Russ5000 Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:59 pm

My reset switch will not reset, what could be the cause of this?
Thanks
Russ

vwinnovator Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:34 pm

does anyone know how much pressure the Thing BN4 fuel pump puts out?

Captain Spalding Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:29 pm

The specification for the fuel pump is not a pressure but a volume of fuel per strokes. The pump is supposed to put out 13 to 15 cc of fuel per 200 strokes. I'll work up a little mnemonic tomorrow or Monday.

Captain Spalding Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:38 am

Okay, here it is. Excerpted from the Eberspächer BN4 Troubleshooting and Repair Manual, with some license taken by yours truly with regard to cleaning up the translation a bit.


Raggedy Ragtop Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:51 pm

I'm having a blown fuse problem at the heater using 8 or 16 amp fuses. The heater fires up with no problem, runs a couple of cycles and blows the fuse. All of the connections are tight and in real good condition and have been checked with a voltmeter. I have noticed that when the temp knob is pulled all the way out the fuse blows sooner than if the knob is only pulled out 1/4 or 1/2 way. The overall condition of the heater is excellent having been in a garaged car all it's life.
Thanks for any assistance or referral!

Captain Spalding Mon Jan 09, 2012 3:41 pm

The overheating fuse (S17 in the wiring diagram) sits atop the overheating switch (F17). The fuse is inline with the heater fuel pump. If the temperature in the heater becomes too high, the overheating switch shorts the fuse to ground, and the fuse blows. This in turn cuts off the fuel pump.

So, if your fuse is blowing, either the temperature in the heater is getting too high, in which case the temperature regulating switch needs to be adjusted — OR — the overheating switch only thinks the temperature is too high, in which case the overheating switch can be adjusted. Here are some instructions for adjusting the overheating switch. I caution you not to simply adjust it without following the instructions completely and measuring the temperature.

HTH


Raggedy Ragtop Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:55 pm

Thank you for confirming what I suspected. The heat at the duct seams extremely hot but I've not measured it. Assuming I'll be measuring the duct temperature, would a kitchen thermometer give an accurate enough reading or do I need to rent/purchase something auto related?
Thanks very much for your help!

Captain Spalding Mon Jan 09, 2012 8:03 pm

Raggedy Ragtop wrote: Thank you for confirming what I suspected. The heat at the duct seams extremely hot but I've not measured it. Assuming I'll be measuring the duct temperature, would a kitchen thermometer give an accurate enough reading or do I need to rent/purchase something auto related?
Thanks very much for your help!
Well, these days "kitchen thermometer" covers a lot of ground. I believe it matters whether the thermometer is meant to measure air temp or contact temp. A meat thermometer, for example, might be the wrong choice. But there are thermometers that mount through the skin of a barbecue or smoker and measure the air temp inside the barbecue that might work - if you can find one with a nice long probe, that would be better. BTW, I'm totally flying by the seat of my pants here. If I were doing it myself, I'd get the thermocouple attachment for my Fluke multimeter.

Alexios Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:08 pm

Hi

I am having almost the same issue. My heater is working fine(finally) but burns the fuse after one hour and 30 min. If i replace the fuse immediately it blows it again after less than 5 minutes. The fuse that gets blow is the one under the dash.

Does the thermal cutout switch through the fuse under the dash or the one one the heater?

Alex

Captain Spalding Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:16 pm

Alexios wrote: Hi

I am having almost the same issue. My heater is working fine(finally) but burns the fuse after one hour and 30 min. If i replace the fuse immediately it blows it again after less than 5 minutes. The fuse that gets blow is the one under the dash.

Does the thermal cutout switch through the fuse under the dash or the one one the heater?
The thermal cutout switch blows the fuse on the heater.

The fuse that is blowing under the dash is a red 16 amp fuse at position 9, correct? The fuse atop the thermal cutout switch is a white 8 amp fuse, yes?



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