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Fri Jun 19, 2009 1:20 pm

Roof Rack 101: The Basics
I used a standard VW rack as the base for the new one. This way I could clamp tubing to it and back up to see how it looked. I made the lower hoop to fit inside the legs of the stocker, added some temporary legs to the new section to hold it in place and then unclamped and lifted off the stock rack. From here I added the top section, center runners and new legs. Total weight is about 35lbs, without lights, using all .065 wall mild steel. I tack welded most of this with MIG and had to throw a blanket on the roof to keep the sparks from burning the paint and sticking to the windows. When it was all tacked together, I pulled it off and welded it on the ground. It came out perfect, no twist, everything straight and level. :)

Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:12 pm

I've been driving this thing more than working on it. Can't complain about that!
Did some work on the interior: new dash pad, home-made gauge panel with VDO gauges, 15" steering wheel, carpet, door panels, rubber mats, stereo and Mazda Miata seats from a junkyard (for $30 each).

I got the oil cooler mounted in the roof rack. Everything is working good - still a bit sloppy on the freeway, but not anything to worry about.

I learned what others have already figured out: the firewall tar board from Mid-America Motorworks sucks! I have never dealt with a firewall before, having had only buses, so I didn't know any better. It is so thin that even with all of the firewall tabs holding it to the metal, it still got hot and curved against the shroud. I pulled the engine and started over.

Also, the long clutch release arm from "Bruce" works great. The Stage 1 Kennedy pressure plate feels like a stocker now. Much better in traffic.

Still trying to get the speedometer issues worked out. I got the pulse ring and VDO sender bracket from "Zancat" @ desert-craft.com for use with the electronic speedo since I don't have a hole for the stock cable. I think the 1/8"+ space I had might be too much. I just moved it closer last weekend, to about 1/16"-, but haven't had a chance to recalibrate. The needle bounces around like a tach, too. Thought about using the diode trick, but which wire do I use it on?

Wed Nov 11, 2009 11:06 pm

You do some really nice work... just keeps getting nicer.

Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:03 am

Your not worried about getting oil everywhere when you take the filter off?

Wed Nov 25, 2009 6:17 am

The Roof rack is awesome. Nice fab work too on all your parts

Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:25 pm

Thanks guys. I feel like a total amateur when I see stuff in other build threads! There is some serious talent in the Off-Road Forum.

As for the oil, I have a plastic container that fits in there to catch the overflow. I just cut away enough from one side that I can slip it in there and then be able to twist the filter.

I'm dragging the car behind the motor home to Pismo for the Holiday weekend. I went in June also. No dunes, just figure 8's and screwing around on the hard-pack until I swap the 4.12's for 4.86's. Engine has lots of torque, but the gearing is just wrong for the soft stuff. Some pics next week.

Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:36 pm

Really great looking 11 car. I know you dont plan on racing it but I would love to see a cage, seats and a cell in that car!

Hats off to you!

sxuxrxf wrote: I've been driving this thing more than working on it. Can't complain about that!
Did some work on the interior: new dash pad, home-made gauge panel with VDO gauges, 15" steering wheel, carpet, door panels, rubber mats, stereo and Mazda Miata seats from a junkyard (for $30 each).

I got the oil cooler mounted in the roof rack. Everything is working good - still a bit sloppy on the freeway, but not anything to worry about.

I learned what others have already figured out: the firewall tar board from Mid-America Motorworks sucks! I have never dealt with a firewall before, having had only buses, so I didn't know any better. It is so thin that even with all of the firewall tabs holding it to the metal, it still got hot and curved against the shroud. I pulled the engine and started over.

Also, the long clutch release arm from "Bruce" works great. The Stage 1 Kennedy pressure plate feels like a stocker now. Much better in traffic.

Still trying to get the speedometer issues worked out. I got the pulse ring and VDO sender bracket from "Zancat" @ desert-craft.com for use with the electronic speedo since I don't have a hole for the stock cable. I think the 1/8"+ space I had might be too much. I just moved it closer last weekend, to about 1/16"-, but haven't had a chance to recalibrate. The needle bounces around like a tach, too. Thought about using the diode trick, but which wire do I use it on?

Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:12 pm

Totally digging the use of what looks like Thing exhaust on the rear bug...

Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:14 pm

sixty9fasty wrote: Totally digging the use of what looks like Thing exhaust on the rear bug...

way awesome photo.

Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:31 pm

There's more here...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...p;start=20

Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:04 pm

Very nice! Keep it comming.

Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:15 pm

Will the oil cooler get hot enough to cause damage to a board-bag, or worse, a board?

Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:30 pm

No worries on the heat, boards go next to it. Plus the wind is blowing right through it so it doesn't get too hot.

Wed Jan 13, 2010 10:50 pm

I'm already thinking of more changes.
I've got new ball joints that I'll be clearancing in hopes of more travel - every little bit helps. Another set of trailing arms and hooks to go with 'em.
I'll be completely welding the beam and gusseting the shock towers too.
Gonna beef up the tie rods, steering shaft and shim the pitman arm.
A roll cage is coming, which will be tied to the beam and frame horns.
Thinking about a full size spare in the front, so I think I'm going to build a gas tank for the rear like I had in my last car. Maybe pull out the stock tank and make a storage box/battery tray to move the Optima up front.
Then skid plates and side bars when the cage is in.

Here's some shots of the 20 gallon tank I used to have:

Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:52 am

Long ranger I used to have one of those in my Baja. People would look at me strange when I went to fill it up. People around here are not into VW's like I am .

Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:22 am

Wow, what a great job! Let me tell you, I was dead-set on a cut up Baja, but now this opens up the options to a stock Beetle. I like the stock beetle look, and this gives me a lot of hope for something that is offroad-capable. I do hillclimbs, tricks trails, no real high-speed stuff. I love those tires, too. A 20 gallon fuel tank is a great idea! There's no hope for a rear seat with that tank though, is there?

Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:25 am

sxuxrxf wrote: I'm already thinking of more changes.
I've got new ball joints that I'll be clearancing in hopes of more travel - every little bit helps.

I like the planned upgrades... will be interested in the skid plates, next on the list for mine.

I probably need to replace ball joints pretty soon. Can you provide more details on what you are doing? Brand of BJ, how you are clearancing, pics, etc?

Thanks!

Fri Jan 15, 2010 2:52 pm

My current ball joints are "Made in Turkey" and have blue wire holding the boots on. The new ones are German with silver wire.
As I've read, the potential for travel has to do with gettting the right joints, the right color wire, and all the planets in alignment at the time of purchase.

I've read that some have a plastic sleeve inside that prevents metal to metal contact and by removing it, you get more travel.
I will be removing some material from the ends to allow more movement of the stud. Here's where it gets tricky, as I understand, not enough removed yeilds no improvement and too much will weaken it. Both of us have hook stops, so that should help.
I just read last night that 57baja has 10" of travel with a type 3 set-up. Didn't know there was a difference, so I'll have to hit him up. That's almost double my 5-1/4" - 5-1/2".

Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:44 pm

Thanks for the info. My brother checked out different type of balljoints available in Mexico several years ago and found a huge difference in travel.

He bought some "German" ones (probably cheapo chinese labeled as German), some "Nakata" brand, and then some at the VW dealership.

From left to right... cheapo "German", Nakata, VW dealer.

He compared the travel on all 3, from front to back: VW dealer, Nakata, cheapo.

as you can see, a bunch more travel from the VW dealer balljoints. Would be interesting to see difference between what is available here in the US.

I hope your German ones are really German and not like the ones above... thought this might help. These went into a Class 9.

BTW, please share on the T3... I've always wondered what could be done with one of those front suspensions.

Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:04 pm

Define "German"