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Kelly Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:31 am

amishman wrote: Any of you Puck owners running a battery in their Puck? What model battery, size, and does it get charged while driving? Curious how the battery works in the Puck and does it just drive the one light next to the stove and that it or does it drive other stuff?

tj

I missed this. I'm not currently running a battery but I will when I sort all the wiring after the floor is redone. I think from the factory the battery did run only one light, as per the crude schematic in the manual. I plan on using it for all of the interior lighting.

I don't think the battery will get charged while towing unless you wire that way. The battery in the Puck was an option and cost extra back then. If you don't plan on charging the battery while driving you can use an on-board charger like Aaron has. If you plan on just charging the battery via external charger than you could possibly go with a 6v battery as long as you remember to change the weak current bulbs to 6v as well. The 6v battery could save you a little weight and give you a little more space in the under seating storage.

I'm sure people with a "stock" Puck with the accessories included can help a little better.

Kelly Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:49 am

Interesting facts:

Eriba Travel Trailers started in 1952 in Bad Waldsee, West Germany

The 1967/68 model specs (I'm sure most Pucks have relatively the same specs) were as follows:

Length include hitch: 12ft
Width: 5ft 6in
Height (roof collapsed): 6ft 5in
Weight: approx 660lbs dry
Hitch weight: 77lbs ("even a woman, without any strain, culd push this light weight trailer by hand...")
Tires: 4.40-4.50x8 or 10

Approximate suggested retail price: $1,695 (US)

Kelly Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:42 pm

borrowed from a Belgium website:

THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The electrical system comprises 2 different circuits, one fo rpower current ( up to 220 v ) and one for week current ( 6v , 12v ) It should be noted that the bulbs being used in connection with these circuits must be adapted to the respective voltage.

Power current : The sockets provided in the laterel walls of the bed boxes are protected by O-conductors at the tubular steel frame of the superstructure. Suitable as supply cable is the cable type NYMHY 3x1,5 mm2 , or a corresponding rubber cable. The protective contact, plug and coupling should be waterprooved and made of unbreakable material.

Week current : the connection with the towing motor vehicle is established with the aid of a seven-pole plug.

Inside lighting : the supply with week current may be regulated selectively either from the towing motor vehicle or also from an additional battery adapted to be connected to the box onthe left. A throw-over switch in the lateral wall of the left bed box serves for this purpose.The double inside lamps are connected to the week current line with one bulb, and with the other to the power circuit.



*throw-over switch from 12volt to 220volt




*220 volt power current



*7-pole plug

L = left blinker
54G = inside lights--constant power
31 = mass
R = right blinker
58R = right backlight + front licht and numberplate light
54 = brake lights
58L = left back light + front light

amishman Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:07 am

Had the tires mounted today. Big O scuff the rims a tad but I will live with that. Will need to touch up around edges sometime. I guess 2 to 3 days drying for the paint was not enough or their machines are gorilla's. Mostly the backside was scuffed so no biggee. Just need to paint some spots they went through all layers of paid in the hub area so there is some paint in dings they made.

Anyway, here is what tire looks like on freshly painted rim with repro eriba puck hub cap. Thanks again to Judy (Reba Puck) for giving me the cool hub caps.

tj


Kelly Sat Mar 21, 2009 10:56 am

nice job! those look great! I really want to find some hub caps so if you hear of any floating about :wink: let me know!

The only place I've found that didn't damage my rims was Discount Tire, they were *extra* careful. Show us some pix when you get them installed TJ.

amishman Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:31 pm

Installed a battery today. Two lights run from the battery. The one above the stove and the one in back. The one in back has dual bulb set up. One for 110v and the other for 12v DC when battery is used. Nice setup.

Purchased a small 40 amp hour marine deep cycle battery from Batteries Plus in Sacramento area. Fits nicely in the battery area. Small enough to where if I want to run two inline later, the battery can fit in between wheel well and seat side. So, can have two running inline for lots of amp hours. For now, 1 will do.

Their item # is SLIU1DC U1 Deep Cycle 12/18 and sells for $49.99. They have a $10 rebate right now so only $39.99 in the end. Nice deal. 40 amp hours should be plenty for 2 small bulbs.

tj



Skate Sun Mar 22, 2009 10:35 am

Great thread, I'll have to post up some pic's soon. I've got a 68...

amishman Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:24 pm

Decided I have enough space in battery tray area t bump up to bigger series Group 24 battery. So much more amp hours. Longer is betta. :)

I will take pictures once I install it. The Group 24 battery maxes out the battery space. Should fit like a glove.

So, instead of $49.99 - $10 rebate for smaller one I showed before, $79.99 - $10 rebate for Group 24 Battery. Same Werker Batteries Plus brand as before. 2 Year Warranty. 1st year free, 2nd year prorated.

Not bad.

tj

EDIT... Here is a picture of the larger Group 24 installed. Like a bug snug in a rug. Perfect!


Kelly Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:56 am

looks good TJ, can you still reach the 120v switch? I can't tell.

I just spent a few hours cleaning the inside of mine getting it ready for the upcoming show in Olympia. After that I plan on replacing the floor...looking forward to that. I just hope it's not going to take all Summer.

amishman Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:12 pm

JacsWagen wrote: looks good TJ, can you still reach the 120v switch? I can't tell.

I just spent a few hours cleaning the inside of mine getting it ready for the upcoming show in Olympia. After that I plan on replacing the floor...looking forward to that. I just hope it's not going to take all Summer.

I did not try but should not problem from left side over wheel well hump. Unless your hands are gorilla sized. hehehe

Replacing a floor for me would take, ummmm, 50 years.

I am slow as shit. Taken me this long to get it on road again.

I could not even fathom replacing the floor. <grin>

tj

amishman Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:13 pm

Installed the new Kumho 145 Tires on my Puck today. They look real nice!

Only issue I have to tackle now is the spare. The spare bracket on back is not tall enough to take the new tire. The tire is basically the same size as the stock tire but maybe I need to either deflate the tire and bring a pump with me and pump the spare up to max if I need it or figure out a way to get the spare on there. I am thinking I can cock the bottom out a bit so the tire is at a slight angle and then get some coupler that can bolt onto existing bolt and then run some extension bolts out to connect the spare. Not sure yet.

It is close but with a fully inflated tire, it will not go on.

So, are you all running the stock 145 tire on the spare and how did you get yours to fit back their on that bracket?

Here are the new tires.

tj



amishman Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:14 pm

Started stove operations today. Also working on getting the spare mounted to rear-end. Need to hit the hardware store again for bolts.

Meanwhile, I removed the stove today. Wanted to clean it up better and also wanted to check propane pipes behind so pulled the stove. Fairly easy. Remove side wall heat shield by removing about 5 screws. Then remove the stove by removing two screws, one of each side. Just lift the stove lid and you will see screws right in the middle and the stove is only held in place with these two and also with help and support of the propane tube. Just wrench off the propane tube nut from front area of stove and the whole stove just slides out. Here is what she looks like removed and what the cavity looks like without the stove.

With the stove out, I may tinker later with getting the water bottle out also and cleaning that.

1st thing is 1st though.

tj



Kelly Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:30 pm

Nice pix and looking good! How is your water tank? I'm almost postive mine is cracked but I won't try it out until I remove it for the floor.

Does your tank have a date stamp of 1969?

rebapuck Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:33 pm

Mine is a 1975 imported from Belgium. The shipping was about $1200.

My tires are also Kumho. The bracket on the spare just misses closing. So I put two padlocks on to hold the two sides together. I spent the money and got a set of three matching (one key) weatherproof locks. The third is on the hitch.

I had to rewire for 110v. I've done no 12v work and have no battery. The 12v lamps I won't hook up because I can get along without them, and the water pump seems silly because the sink is hardly big enough to spit in.

The repo hub caps I gave Tom were from eBay. I got a new jockey wheel from a website in the UK.

My gas tank is inside in a cabinet just inside the door.

amishman Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:35 pm

JacsWagen wrote: Nice pix and looking good! How is your water tank? I'm almost postive mine is cracked but I won't try it out until I remove it for the floor.

Does your tank have a date stamp of 1969?

Yes on the 1969.

Do you know how to get that tank out. Those connections look hard to get to to pull the sucker out. Hope there is a method to get her out easy after I look at it closer.

Not sure if mine works. Time will tell.

tj

rebapuck Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:49 pm

Does anyone else have a childs cot? I haven't figured where to stow it except under my bed, in the house.

Kelly Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:31 am

rebapuck wrote:
The repo hub caps I gave Tom were from eBay. I got a new jockey wheel from a website in the UK.

My gas tank is inside in a cabinet just inside the door.

I hope you mean water tank :shock: :wink:

Those hubcaps, were they on the US ebay? I couldn't find anything for a Puck on US ebay the last time I searched.

As far as the water tank, to me it didn't look overly difficult however I will document everything with pictures incase I do it before you TJ.

rebapuck Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:14 am

No, I mean the propane tank. The cabinet is designed for it. Has a perforated floor.

The hubcaps may have come from eBay uk. I found them while on ebay us with an..eriba puck.. search. I'll look around.

My water container is in the closet and very easy to lift out.

rebapuck Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:19 am

Just went on eBay UK. Searched..eriba puck.. Hubcaps were third item.

Kelly Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:08 pm

thanks, I'll look!

you should post up a pic in here of your Puck :)



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