TheSamba.com :: View topic

Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:51 am

Hello,

I just got a pair of dry doors supposedly from Australia (but I think they are Cal from the paint wear pattern on the left side one).
They fit great but I need to move all of the hardware from my old rusty doors.
When I cleaned up the 'new' doors there were foam rubber pads behind the door cards just around the levers with which you open the doors from the inside.
They turned to dust on contact hence the absence of photo's!
My question is, what purpose did they serve and can I live without them?

Cheers
Max

Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:38 am

They stop the icy draft from the door handle in the winter, if you don't care about a draft leave them out, if not any light weatherstripping or foam will do.
Make sure you install the plastic sheeting on the door before the door card goes on and the inner flap is tucked into the door structure though, I'm sure your bus will see some rain or get washed now and then.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:04 am

Thanks busdaddy. I can probably cope with the draft!

Good call about the plastic though. The original was torn to shreads and glued on to the door itself. Is this how it is done? And who sells these or does one just fashion them out of polythene?

Max

Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:27 am

why don't they make repo panels from like say abs or some other polymer?
seems like it would be far better than the board, esp if you live in rainy washington.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:44 am

Waterproof or not you need the inner flap or all the water that gets in the door goes directly on the area beside the seat belt attach point.
Here's how VW did it:

I use thin poly and repositionable spray glue or spray contact cement.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 11:47 am

yea i just cut mine last week and failed to do this step :roll:
looks like i need to pull them back off again!

Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:06 pm

I use greenhouse poly when replacing the original vapor barrier, the plastic new furniture comes wrapped in also works well. Both are heavier and more resistant to the elements than the cheap 4 or 6 mil stuff you get from a hardware store or lumber yard.

I would also like to eliminate the bottom dog leg from the door panel, as it seems to be the first part to begin to get moisture damage. Getting rid of all the cardboard would be great as well.

Has anyone tried covering their cardboard panels with shellac of some other waterproofing?

I would not eliminate the little pieces of foam around the release levers, they are going to help keep warm air from entering the door cavities.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 12:35 pm

I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back.

Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:10 pm

busdaddy wrote: I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back.

I just did a door session and replaced my foam backings as well; I used some foam that came in an air conditioning weatherstripping package. Easy to cut to size. Note there should also be foam behind the window crank. In addition to keeping out drafts, I suspect the foam helps keep the door cards from vibrating.

I used I think 3 mil plastic sheeting from Home Depot for my replacement vapor barrier. I ended up using oik-based caulk to attach it; no luck with contact cement or silicone glue. And easy to apply with a caulk gun.

Hopefully I won't need to get behind that plastic for a while now!

Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:10 pm

busdaddy wrote: I fiberglassed the backs of some OG panels that I pressed back into shape on the shop floor with sandbags 10 years ago, still looking good.
I didn't do the whole panel with cloth, just the lower area where it was rotten, but I did brush resin all over the back.

Oh yea - and GREAT idea!!

Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:05 pm

"Gaskacinch" The same stuf used on the valve cover gaskets at valve adjustments works good too and it is easy to use. I do recommend getting yourself those little black rubber chingaderas after you install the new visqueen. It really helps keep the door panel in place. they are kinda pricey for what they are but if you do your doors once and right the first time you won`t need to screw around with them again for a long while

Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:14 am

Thanks everyone. I will attempt to source some foam rubber from somewhere then.
Looking at the door the draft issue looks minor (I don't use the van in the cold much), but the vibrating issue could be really annoying.

So the polythene sheet has a logitudinal flap that goes on the inside and lays down over the middle door member. Is that correct?

Max

Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:41 am

Wouldn't the plastic that you can buy and use as a tarp when painting work? It's not that expensive and seems to be the right thickness.

Wed Mar 25, 2009 2:03 pm

Ok, granted, I am a Flailing Newb at most of this, but out of concern for the backside of the door panels I am "restoring" -aka salvaging- I am putting ProtectoWrap on the back of them. It is a Butyl Hybrid waterproof self adhesive product used in construction to seal the area around windows and doors. I am hoping it helps as a sound deadener- so I'm slapping it on everything that doesn't get outta my way at this point! [/img]