TheSamba.com :: View topic - Propex heater install locations Pros and Cons

Sat Feb 13, 2010 12:56 pm

Karl installed mine under the sub woofer under the rear seat... I LOVE IT THERE! When I wake up on cold morning my feet get nice and toasty first. I camped last night after a night of homemade chili rellenos, carne asada and the best refried beans I have had in ions. I kicked the propex on this morning and was toasty in minutes... THANK YOU KARL!

I still am perplexed as to why people think they are loud. On cold nights I love the sound of the propex, it is the sound of heat and comfort blowing my way! The waves crashing on the ocean this morning were louder than the propex!

ASWAH

p.s. I culdn't put the propex in the closet as I have a twelve bottle wine cave in there and under the fridge is occupied...

Sat Feb 13, 2010 1:14 pm

Aswah your life sounds luxurious :lol:

Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:35 pm

Just for further clarification / FYI - all Propex heaters since about two years ago have been jetted properly to run at 11" water-column. Propex just never informed me of this for quite some time. SO - no need for anyone to raise the pressure from 11", however it may still be necessary to at least check that the regulator is still delivering at 11" and adjust if needed.

Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:24 pm

Can we think "outside the box" and put the heater outside?

Say under the floor or above the transmission?

Why put it inside where there is so little room to begin with?

Sun Feb 14, 2010 8:09 am

r39o wrote: Can we think "outside the box" and put the heater outside?
Say under the floor or above the transmission?
Why put it inside where there is so little room to begin with?

This could be done, I suppose, but would require more holes through the floor - the heater must recirculate the air from inside the van. Also, it would need to be located inside a totally sealed box, as it is not designed to be fitted outside, exposed to the elements.

Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:11 am

Let's see now. More holes? Emmm....

In the van we need the following holes:

Mounting.
Control Wiring
Gas.
Exhaust
Hot Air.

Out side the van we need:

Mounting.
Control Wiring.
Recirculate.
Hot Air.

Unless I do not understand something, I see less holes required. The only thing inside the van that will require thought, is where the ducting needs to go. If you could find a way to mount it under the cabinets you just put a hole in the floor for recirculation in an analogous manner to mounting inside a cabinet.

The only issue is a box. You just gonna have to come up with something. How hard is that verses trying to cram it in the van in some corner?

I am just trying to minimize the impact in the storage or living area.

Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:50 pm

> Unless I do not understand something, I see less holes required.

:-)
Let me try to help enlighten you.

The stock propex install involves 2 one inch holes thru the floor for the intake and exhaust pipes, a 3/8" hole for the propane line, and one 3" hole thru the front of the bench seat for the heater output. Heater intake is thru the existing airpath that supplies the rear heater. The control wiring does not require any holes.

If you put the propex outside, you eliminate the 2 one inch holes, but would need 2 three inch holes for the heater output, and to recirculate house air back to the heater house air intake. Plus you would need a hole for the 2 control wires.

So inside install is two 1"holes thru the floor, and one 3/8" hole thru the floor, plus one 3" hole thru the bench seat.

Outside install is two 3" (big) holes, and one small one, plus probably two more 3" holes in the bench seat or wherever your heat enters and exits the living space..

so inside one 3" hole, not bad
outside four 3" holes, not good

I can still fit a bunch of stuff under my bench seat, the propex has a shelf over it, and it is not that tall.. or, there is PLENTY of room in the bottom of the closet, with no need to build a weather proof box for outside mounting the Propex

final score inside +4 holes total (only 1 is 3", the other 3 are smaller)

outside +5 holes (four of which are 3", and one is smaller)

would you rather build a box and have four 3" holes, or build a shelf, and have one 3" hole?:-]

Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:34 am

A UK company is working with Propex UK to build an external Propex for the old air-cooled vans. No details as yet. Webpage to check is http://www.bluebird-type2.co.uk/heat.htm

Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:01 pm

syncropatrick wrote: A UK company is working with Propex UK to build an external Propex for the old air-cooled vans. No details as yet. Webpage to check is http://www.bluebird-type2.co.uk/heat.htm

There is also a company here that just released a completely portable 'Propex in a box' that I suppose might be interesting to some folks:

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/heaters.html

Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:03 am

westyventures wrote: syncropatrick wrote: A UK company is working with Propex UK to build an external Propex for the old air-cooled vans. No details as yet. Webpage to check is http://www.bluebird-type2.co.uk/heat.htm

There is also a company here that just released a completely portable 'Propex in a box' that I suppose might be interesting to some folks:

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/heaters.html

Unfortunately, when you watch the demo video they specifically state that it should never be used inside.

Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:14 am

This may seem like a rudimentary question but can any of these heaters be on a timer? i.e. low during the night and warmer in the morning. I realize a thermostat but is there such an invention that you can set it for variable times?

i.e. before getting ready for bed and in the morning. Not sure I'd like the heat to be toasty in the middle of the night.

Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:22 am

Simba'sWestyWings wrote: This may seem like a rudimentary question but can any of these heaters be on a timer? i.e. low during the night and warmer in the morning. I realize a thermostat but is there such an invention that you can set it for variable times?

i.e. before getting ready for bed and in the morning. Not sure I'd like the heat to be toasty in the middle of the night.

There is a timer but it only controls on/off time, not temperature.

Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:29 pm

SAMBA!
I recently moved my propex 1800 from under the rear seat (sub there now) to inside a RMW box behind the passenger seat. Looking at the instal instructions Propex states that the total (intake +exhaust) hose length should not exceed one meter (I think). But I'd like to route the exhaust as far away as possible, maybe out the back. So I was thinking of adding a larger diameter pipe of some kind to reduce backpressure, which I assume is the issue. When I had the Propex exhaust going out at the rear sliding door jack point I was always worried about combustion gas. Also It would load up and plug with snow/ice in the winter.
I am thinking of adding a very short hose hose for the intake and then a short piece of normal exhaust hose with the larger diamater running to the back of the van...maybe 8 feet.
Thoughts?

Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:00 am

Honuak wrote: SAMBA!
I recently moved my propex 1800 from under the rear seat (sub there now) to inside a RMW box behind the passenger seat. Looking at the instal instructions Propex states that the total (intake +exhaust) hose length should not exceed one meter (I think). But I'd like to route the exhaust as far away as possible, maybe out the back. So I was thinking of adding a larger diameter pipe of some kind to reduce backpressure, which I assume is the issue. When I had the Propex exhaust going out at the rear sliding door jack point I was always worried about combustion gas. Also It would load up and plug with snow/ice in the winter.
I am thinking of adding a very short hose hose for the intake and then a short piece of normal exhaust hose with the larger diamater running to the back of the van...maybe 8 feet.
Thoughts?

Before you get too far I'd recommend that you check in with Karl regarding your ideas...

From my conversations with him I understood that the combustion air and exhaust pipes now need to be the same length for the most recent versions of the Propex heater to operate properly.

It is also my understanding that the inlet/outlet pipe length is critical because the heater’s ECU (?) monitors the pressures of both for safe operation and expects the pressures to be within a rather narrow range. If the pipes are grossly different lengths that specific range might not be attainable.

Again, Karl would be the one to advise you. He's been on the road for a while (and I'm jealous) but does check e-mail when he can.

Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:19 am

The older 1800 isn't at all picky about pipe length.

Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:29 am

westyventures wrote: The older 1800 isn't at all picky about pipe length.

Dang, I didn't see Otto in the driveway this morning but you must have been looking over my shoulder! :lol:

Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:50 am

turbotransporter wrote: westyventures wrote: The older 1800 isn't at all picky about pipe length.

Dang, I didn't see Otto in the driveway this morning but you must have been looking over my shoulder! :lol:

Ha, just happened to be looking at my mail and stopped in here for a moment to scan. 15,000 km and still on the road for another 2 weeks. 8)
(In Asheville, NC at the moment)

Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:03 pm

Quote: think a lot of us live in the PNW It always freaks me out when I drive to CA or elsewhere and go for days without seeing another Westy. Where did they all go?

huh? Where are the vans in California? On the road for 2,000 Bob. I see plenty every single day.

I have the propex under my sub woofer under the rear bench... I also have my third battery there. Under the fridge sounds like a bad idea to me. Heat and Cooling together equals no good!

Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:53 pm

Great Thread!

My two cents, as I'm dealing the propex right now and lubing up the fan to avoid the dreaded "5 blinks" that has plagued it since I bought it.

IMHO: Under the Rear Seat Sucks! I did it.

Why?

- It's blazing freaking hot, at the front-lip of the bed, with the blower-output blowing.

- It's Noisy. I know, the sales literature talks about how quiet it is.. but, guess what happens when it's right under your bed.

- The blower-output faces towards the front, this causes all of the heat to go towards the front-seats where it gets lost to the windows and all that space you don't sleep.

- Installing it per the instructions from Karl will put the copper-bends and connection point very close to the side of the bench-box.

My plan is to move it, I'd like:
- the output of the heat to blow towards the sleeping area
- change it to flexible propane lines
- use some kind of quick connect sop I can put it in the sailboat
- put it in a position that allows me to service the stupid fan inside, in order to avoid that stupid 5-blink problem when it's 4am and freezing

Sat Feb 19, 2011 5:31 pm

boulderdrop wrote: Great Thread!

My two cents, as I'm dealing the propex right now and lubing up the fan to avoid the dreaded "5 blinks" that has plagued it since I bought it.

IMHO: Under the Rear Seat Sucks! I did it.

Why?

- It's blazing freaking hot, at the front-lip of the bed, with the blower-output blowing.

- It's Noisy. I know, the sales literature talks about how quiet it is.. but, guess what happens when it's right under your bed.

- The blower-output faces towards the front, this causes all of the heat to go towards the front-seats where it gets lost to the windows and all that space you don't sleep.

- Installing it per the instructions from Karl will put the copper-bends and connection point very close to the side of the bench-box.

My plan is to move it, I'd like:
- the output of the heat to blow towards the sleeping area
- change it to flexible propane lines
- use some kind of quick connect sop I can put it in the sailboat
- put it in a position that allows me to service the stupid fan inside, in order to avoid that stupid 5-blink problem when it's 4am and freezing

Wow - what a lot of harsh words - have you ever sent it in for warranty or asked my assistance with the reported problem? I do know the ins and outs of these heaters by now and 'lubing the stupid fan' is not something one should be doing without even consulting with the factory reps. If it's too noisy, there could be other issues - but we have yet to see a bad motor. I can help with a solid solution for the dreaded '5-blink' problem you've failed to fix correctly and for good.

Hundreds of under-seat installations that work great are not so 'stupid'. Hang a blanket or curtain if you don't want the cold coming back from the front - the heat isn't going forward, it's going out from under the seat and upward. Try the smoke test. :wink: Same deal with the windows - they radiate cold in - this has nothing to do with the heater; the windows need to be insulated.

You're welcome to install it anyway you'd like, as long as safety is a priority - this means not replacing fittings with US - NPT fittings (cracked heater inlet can result) - and not teeing in any lines inside the van.