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  View original topic: Water level indicator LED always green / sensor troubleshooting Page: Previous  1, 2, 3
coastdog Sat Sep 15, 2018 3:37 pm

Thanks for the help gentleman.

dbeierl Sat Sep 15, 2018 5:16 pm

coastdog wrote: Thanks for the help gentleman.
You're welcome :)

kamzcab86 Fri Nov 29, 2019 5:59 pm

Back from the dead thanks to https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9223168#9223168 , so I can post a source for an OEM sensor switch.

dbeierl wrote: One reed switch (bottom IIRC) is an SPDT switch. The other is the more common SPST type.

The top switch: https://www.kr4.us/reed-switch.html . If the link goes bad: Karlsson Robotics, part #COM-08642.

After buying a new sensor from BD back at the beginning of the year and having it bad out of the box, sending it back for a recall repair, and still not working properly, I decided to investigate why the original sensor failed. Opened it up and found the top reed switch busted and the glass a bit broken. Soldered in a new switch and all is right in the level sensor world.

I looked for the bottom switch and found it somewhere, but didn't bother to save the link :roll: because mine ended up not needing replacement.

dbeierl wrote: the tiniest bend in the wrong direction would pop one or both.

The things are uber-fragile right out of the package! One of the two I bought broke when attempting to solder it into place. :x


For anyone who has a sensor float that no longer floats, well or at all, get a pool noodle, slice off about an inch, and slide it onto the float. :wink:

PapaG73 Thu May 13, 2021 1:08 pm

Hoping some of you can help with this newbie question...New to me '89 Westy has the LED lights only working intermittently. Previous owner showed me how it will illuminate when the center of the panel is pushed. Good enough for him, not me. Worth trying to solder bits back to the board or just go with the rebuild kit from GoWesty or similar? As I do not own a soldering tool and would have to borrow one, mostly leaning towards replacing the board.

On that note, anyone know where to get a refurbished faceplate for the stove?

kourt Thu May 13, 2021 2:40 pm

For those seeking alternatives to the fragile OEM water level gauge setup:

I basically copied this guy’s setup in my 91 Westy:

https://livelikepete.com/fresh-water-tank-level-sensor-and-gauge-install/

It’s been a far better setup for water level—more reliable, and I don’t have to treat the sensor gently anymore.

Kourt

PapaG73 Thu May 13, 2021 2:48 pm

kourt wrote: For those seeking alternatives to the fragile OEM water level gauge setup:

I basically copied this guy’s setup in my 91 Westy:

https://livelikepete.com/fresh-water-tank-level-sensor-and-gauge-install/

It’s been a far better setup for water level—more reliable, and I don’t have to treat the sensor gently anymore.

Kourt

Interesting idea! I might try to replace the LED indicator before I go to that extreme. Do not plan on hauling much water, more concerned about battery level. Thanks!

coastdog Thu May 13, 2021 3:05 pm

Those LED’s either work or they don’t. If pushing on the panel has tbe light come on it’s something upstream of the LED in the circuit board or further upstream like a poor connection in the plug that is located a few inches behind the panel.

If you don’t have soldering experience doing anything to those little panels can end up with more problems afterwards but it does give you valuable experience. I’d check the connector first and if the intermittent problem is not there I’d be inclined to put in a GoWesty replacement panel. They work really well and have a blue LED installed in the ‘fridge is on propane’ spot. It’s much easier to see than the original dim green one... if you are still using the Dometic.

PapaG73 Thu May 13, 2021 3:18 pm

coastdog wrote: Those LED’s either work or they don’t. If pushing on the panel has tbe light come on it’s something upstream of the LED in the circuit board or further upstream like a poor connection in the plug that is located a few inches behind the panel.

If you don’t have soldering experience doing anything to those little panels can end up with more problems afterwards but it does give you valuable experience. I’d check the connector first and if the intermittent problem is not there I’d be inclined to put in a GoWesty replacement panel. They work really well and have a blue LED installed in the ‘fridge is on propane’ spot. It’s much easier to see than the original dim green one... if you are still using the Dometic.

Good advice! Thanks! Looking to see if the refer even works. Might go with the Truckfridge from Vancafe.

brickster Tue Sep 27, 2022 9:38 am

My experience for posterity since the FAQ takes you to this thread:

My OEM switch was functional for the water level and battery, but not the refrigerator's propane flame. It's really nice to know when the thermocouple is detecting flame since it's difficult to see the flame through the window, especially during daytime.

If I wiggled the switch up/down while in the on position, I could get it to work but the light would go out when I let go.

Theorizing that it was dirty inside the switch contacts, I removed the panel completely by disconnecting it from the harness and oriented it so that the switch handle's end was facing up. I added a couple of drops of DeoxIT D100 at the base of the switch handle and let it ooze down into the switch internals. I then worked the switch back and forth and a little bit up down while in the on/off positions (gently!). I repeated the process for good measure and then cleaned up the excess.

The propane flame light now comes on. Here's hoping it will last another 38 years.

brickster Mon Sep 02, 2024 7:02 pm

brickster wrote: The propane flame light now comes on. Here's hoping it will last another 38 years.
The light crapped out soon after this post! Today, I was able to diagnose and repair.

On the back of the board, the solder had failed such that the LED legs were noticeably loose. Some of the other LEDs were also loose but still working.

All it took to repair them was to place the soldering iron (with a needle tip) on each leg until the solder reflowed. I went ahead and added a small amount of solder to each leg until the ends were covered.



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