TheSamba.com :: View topic - Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install

Sun Jan 25, 2015 1:26 pm

Dylan did you use the locktite sealant on the sender rubber gaskets? Do u think this has helped keep ur installs leak free?

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. All good info.

Mon Jul 27, 2015 7:26 pm

KevbOliver wrote: Ok, I'm doing the same job smurf rocked out... I have a question regarding the set up of the fuel line rack. When I look at the Bentley, the T for the vent lines looks to be on the passenger side sending the non float valve, open line towards the fuel filler... In my set up I pulled, the T is on the passenger side with the open line going towards the charcoal canister, which sounds right to me? Here is a photo of my rack I pulled:

Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm hoping to make Syncrofest!

Just to reopen this question as it never really got answered. The picture on page 20.34 in the Bentley is wrong,(at least for North American Syncros with tank insulation) it shows the vent line T on the passenger side.
In reality it's on the driver's side with the end going to the charcoal canister.
And on page 20.33 the drawing for the charcoal assembly shows the vent line at the bottom of the canister going to the air cleaner.
On mine (never disassembled before) the line from the bottom of the canister terminates inside the frame rail in front of the fuel filter.

Tue Jul 28, 2015 3:40 am

The venting of the tank can be greatly improved from stock and pictured in Bentley.
I use hardline for venting now to save a little space.
Depending upon what conversion the van has I try to plump it back into the intake and not vent to the atmosphere, but most don't care to spend the time.

Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:53 am

insyncro wrote: The venting of the tank can be greatly improved from stock and pictured in Bentley.
I use hardline for venting now to save a little space.
Depending upon what conversion the van has I try to plump it back into the intake and not vent to the atmosphere, but most don't care to spend the time.

Well yes, good point.
With the new passenger side air intake for the Bostig/Zetec that will be easy.

Sun Oct 11, 2015 3:50 pm

Dylan, if you vented to the intake aren't you worried about a vacuum in the tank?, It would be near impossible to collapse it, but it may cause running problems,

Mon Oct 12, 2015 12:32 am

Bassyaks wrote: Dylan, if you vented to the intake aren't you worried about a vacuum in the tank?, It would be near impossible to collapse it, but it may cause running problems,

I have zero running issues.
EVAP on most cars comes back to the intake so that ANY fuel vapors can be burned in the engine.

Stock USDM vans all had plumbing back to the intake in some sort and used a charcoal canister.

The diagram has been shown in this thread.

You should change the title of your other thread to "rollover" valves, as this is the common name that many more people will find when searching.

Fri Aug 12, 2016 10:01 am

A bit late to this thread but I was curious as I have not read the Bentley manual yet. Does the engine need to be dropped to remove the tank?
I have the transmission out now as I am doing a clutch job, new CV joints, cooling system and shift linkage bushings.
Someone mentioned that the engine has to be removed but it seems the tank can be removed with the engine in place. Am I incorrect?
Thanks for this write up!

Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:08 pm

My '86 WBX Syncro is leaking fuel when filled within a gallon of maximum. Fuel drips quite briskly on passenger side from somewhere above the shifter lever—not unfortunately from filler pipe or tube. Tank is going to have to come out.

Snow is 3 ft deep here (Idaho). I might be able to get the rig into my heated garage if I drop the tire pressure. If I can, my garage door opener sets a limit as to how high I can raise the vehicle. [I'm acutely aware of flammability issues inherent in this job.]

Bentley says this job can be done if I drop just the tranny.
1) is that correct, but the hard way? I.e. Should I plan to drop the engine too?
2) if I drop one or both, how high do I have to raise the vehicle to slide them out of the way?

After reviewing this and related threads can't say I'm really looking forward to this job, but I have more time than $$. Will do fuel lines, straps, sender and clutch at same time; clutch has at least 80K miles on it.

When done will drive south until I can see dirt once again :D

Wed Feb 01, 2017 10:41 pm

Your going to cuss less and have the liberty to finesse/fight the tank if the trans and engine are out of the way.

Buy quality hardware and components. I used hylomar for an added sealant. Amazon is cheap for ear clamps. Use something like gates barricade green shield for fuel lines. Replace the submersible line in the tank.

Take care, it's a frustrating experience!

Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:07 pm

Thanks. All good suggestions. Will keep strong drink at hand.

Now, if I can squeeze the van into the garage, how high must I raise the rear to scoot the engine/tranny out? I won't have much more than a foot of space above the van due to interference with my door opener rail. In a pinch I guess I could pull the opener, but rather not.

Tue Mar 14, 2017 5:21 am

Hey guys,
I have done this job of removing the fuel tank for servicing, and all I can say is that it is much easier with the engine out to get in there and work.

If you try this with the engine in place, you will need to support the engine and constantly butt up into it trying to pry the tank loose.

You have to teater the heck out of the tank to get it to come down and come out. You need all the space available to get in there.

Plus once it is out, you may want to repaint the firewall like Hefty Smurf did.
You will need to prep this area and sand the heck out of it, so with the engine out, again you will have more room to do this.

Joel

Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:08 pm

I HATE PHOTOBUCKET!

Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:20 pm

I've heard this works when you upload Chrome

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj